No spark
 

Everybody,
My car died on me while approaching a red light. The light turned green & I accelerated & it died. I bring that up because I know Chevy's with an HEI ignition die suddenly in similar fashion & it usually is the module. Is this the same case here?
A complete distributor from Rock Auto is ~$152. I believe this includes distributor, cap, rotor, & module. Can the module be tested at the parts stores? I believe Chevy modules can be.
The details of the car is: '95 Camry, 4 cylinder, 360k miles, timing belt/water pump replaced at 315k. Only work done to the dizzy is cap/rotor.
Also, does this car have a shrader valve to test for presence of fuel pressure? I didn't see one.
The p/n for the dizzy from Rock Auto is 84 74426. The car does have CA Emissions.

Thanks,
Chris

Product Detail

Is the ign coil built into the dist or remote?

The dist has two signal coils, but not the igniter. The igniter is generally not a problem.

There is no valve to test fuel pressure.

For ign problem:
Determine if the dist rotor rotates, indicating the timing belt is still OK.
Then see private message.

The engine does have a separate coil. I pulled off the cap earlier as you suggested, the rotor does NOT spin. I guess my next step is to remove the top few bolts of the timing belt cover & pry it back a little and see if the timing belt is there and spins with the engine or if the dizzy shaft broke. Any other ideas or suggestions? Thanks much for the troubleshooting link!

Odds are the timing belt broke. When cranking over the engine, does it sound like it is spinning faster the normal.

yeah, actually it does...like no resistance or compression....

If the timing belt broken some valves are not closing on the compression stroke. Thus there is less resistance to the start motor rotating the engine.

Buy a highly saturated nitrile belt and change it at 60K US miles.

AutoZone has a kit with a Dayco belt & free shipping on orders over $75 & 20% off if I order by the 27th. I just looked at some you tube videos. It doesn't seem too bad of a job I guess. I will replace the oil pump housing gasket & seal as well. Does this kit seem good or happen to know of a better one? It is p/n wp199k1a

ttp://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/water-pump/dayco-wpk-water-pump/toyota/camry/1995/4-cylinders-s-2-2l-efi-dohc/162699_658244_0/

just ordered the same kit from Rock Auto, but with the seals (WP199K1AS) for $68.79 & only $7.23 shipping. Now got to find the time to do it. 60+hr weeks kinda sucks sometimes...but it will get done...

That's a good price.

If you haven't done so, for the oil pump. Get the preformed o'ring that goes between the oil pump and the housing and drive shaft seal.

At Rock Auto this is VICTOR REINZ Part B32306.

For the WP change, if the coolant tube and WP housing seals are not leaking. You can just replace the pump and gasket between it and the housing.

A few issues to consider before the belt job are:

Keeping the crank from rotating when loosening and tightening the crank bolt.

Removing the harmonic balancer if stuck. Use only a bolt-on puller.

Suggest using a 6-point box wrench on the 3 bolts holding the upper engine mount to the engine to avoid issues of rounding over the hex head possible when using a 12-point.

Before removing crank pulley, rotate to 0 degrees.

Rotate cam pulley to align hole with mark. Then install belt.

Once you have the belt installed, you can install all lower engine parts leaving upper timing belt cover off. This will allow to rotate the crank CW 2-times and recheck crank/cam pulley alignment. It is possible for the cam pulley to move after belt install due to belt slack.

For the oil pump. To remove the pulley nut, you will need something to grip the driven oil pump gear without damaging it or to grip the pulley.

When removing the pump drive and driving gears, take note of the orientation of a mark on their gear faces (both facing same direction). You want to maintain this orientation when installing.

Prior to gear installation in housing, apply oil or a thin layer of grease to the gear faces and circumferences to seal spacing between gears and housing. This is insurance for the pump to prime. It has happened after repair, the pump will not prime and the result is no oil pressure.

thank u very much for the tips! I will prob start on this next weekend....think I need to get the chiltons manual?

Get a Haynes.

See private message.

awesome!! thanks very much for the link! ill be doing this next weekend I believe.

Great!

I haven't started on this yet. I ended up working this weekend and today. Anyways, how do I find TDC on #1 cylinder on this engine? I know how to do it on small & big block chevys, but never did it on this engine.

Before you take the harmonic balancer off. Rotate the crank by hand (use socket on balancer bolt) CW until the ign timing line on the harmonic balancer is aligned with the 0 degree mark on the timing belt cover. This is TDC No 1.

For camshaft pulley, rotate CW until hole in pulley spoke is aligned with the mark on cam bearing cap.

Once any repairs are complete. Install belt on crank pulley and reassemble the lower crank area, timing cover, balancer. This will allow use of the balancer and timing cover marks when checking if cam/crank pulley timing is correct.

Thx...I wasn't sure if every revolution the timing marks passed each other, it was a complete revolution.

A complete firing cycle requires 2 crank rotations but each rotation is the same. For every 2 crank rotations, the cam rotates once.

If the timing belt were installed. You would need to rotate the crank until the No 1 piston is at TDC AND the cams were oriented for the No 1 piston to be on the compression stroke. This could be more then one crank revolution.

Since the belt is broken, the cam/crank alignment is not yet set. Every rotation of the crank is a complete cycle of piston up and down. No 1 TDC at 0 degrees will happen on every rotation.

Once the belt is installed, cam orientation determines when the piston is on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke when at TDC.

The SS is on the road again!! Only 2 hiccups: the motor bracket for the strut rod sucks taking off and on with a reg straight wrench & not an offset one. The first few threads for tension pulley in the block stripped. I got a 1/4" longer metric bolt, same grade, at True Value. Oh, the oil pump housing O-ring/gasket that came in the kit was about 1/4" too long or stretched. I cut a small piece off & it seems fine. I only replaced this gasket. I didn't replace the crankshaft, camshaft, or oil pump seals. They all appeared fine & not leaking. Only the oil pump housing appeared to be leaking. We'll see if this worked or not, but if it is getting into the housing, maybe the seal was bad.
Timing was reset to 10deg BTDC & now I need to replace the VSS.
Thank you very much for the help!!
Now for the '04 Camry....maybe :)
Chris

Great job. Thanks for posting back with the results.