O2 sensor -vs- air/fuel ratio sensor
 

Sometimes brands other then Denso or Toyota cause the check light to keep coming on. If going with Denso get the one that fits the year/model/engine/etc versus a universal type.

Both sensors do the same job but have different operational designs, performance, capabilities and are not interchangeable from an operational standpoint.

The 02 sensor has a very narrow band it can operate in. If the air/fuel range is outside this band the sensor can not respond. This problem was solved by the A/F sensor having a much wider band.

The change in part started with cars built to meet California emissions standards.

Up until 2002ish the Camry was built to either California or Federal emission standards.

The Federal standard car may have used the 02 sensor, the California the A/F (assuming it was available to use at that time) as this sensor had better performance and thus capability to achieve lower emissions. It was common for the first sensor (upstream) to be an A/F sensor and the downstream to be a 02 sensor. The performance of the 02 sensor being good enough for it job in this location.

There is a sticker under the hold stating which emissions standard the car was built to.

When picking a sensor make sure it meets your cars emissions standard. This being Federal (49 states) or California emissions, upstream/downstream, etc.

Don't assume both sensor are the same or are interchangeable performance wise.

Joey,

I cant say thanks enough- that clarifies everything!!!!
It makes complete sense now, my car is the California
standard too.

I am looking to get the maximum amount of mileage that
I can get from this 2.2/auto!

The car seems to be in a good state of tune, do you think
that just getting myself a brand new Denso/Toyota (make)
A/F sensor + installing it on a car that already runs nicely
could pick up anything in the mileage dept at all??!

I got about 250 miles on a half tank +/-(18.5g tank?)
60% highway 40% city - about 27-28mpg I came in
with/estimated.

And other than an air filter, plugs, wires, pcv, etc. what
else might you suggest for any increase in the mileage dept
at all???!!

Low-restriction cat converters... air intake "kits"...... those
high-performance K+N air filters??????!!

And again, THANX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sincerely, Bob Z. :)

As your mileage is very good for the kind of driving you do replacing the sensor may not do much if anything.

Sensors can become sluggish in responding to A/F changes and drag the MPG down, or can fail and drag it down a lot.

Most likely you will not see any improvement with aftermarket intakes and filters. I don't recommend these.

Not sure on the cat replacement. You might check posts at the Toyotanation website on these types of things.

If you do decide to change cats keep the old original one. Don't scrap it, sell it or allow whoever installs the new cat to keep it! A scrap cat may be worth around $70, which is why the installer may want to keep it.

The reason for you to keep it is if you ever want to convert back the original cat is far superior to any aftermarket cat!! Toyota only sells the cat with the exhaust system attached thus their price on a new cat will be very, very high.

Other things that can be done are less dramatic. Too low of tire pressure, excess weight in the car, changing to synthetic engine oil, use the lower recommended engine oil viscosity, don't use the AC but don't roll down the windows.

The link below has some suggestions, some are more reasonable then others but does give you ideas.

65+ Vehicle modifications for better fuel economy - EcoModder.com

One thing you might do is install a real time MPG monitor that taps into the cars ODBII system. These devices can also monitor the A/F-02 sensors, engine lean or rich condition, etc.

Joey,

once again, I can't say thanks enough!!!!!!

I did think the mileage was fairly decent, with
all things considered too; just wanted a 2nd
opinion I guess...lol!!

And I will check with/join ToyotaNation also!!

Probably won't be changing the converter,
when I consider things now as well......
Just was a thought of a low restriction
converter helping to squeeze a few more
MPG!!!!

I appreciate the link too!!!!!!!!!!!!
:) Will definitely check it out!!!!!!

I will check out the real-time MPG
monitor thingy also- sounds interesting!

Just as long as it would be a relatively
"passive" item- as in it wouldn't be
anything that messes with ANYTHING;
relating to getting my next inspection
sticker?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Again, can-not thank you enough for
ALL the info you provided for my
questions my friend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I work with computers in all kinds of
ways, as a little side-biz for myself,
if you ever need anything at ALL-
just lemme know- as I just might have
something you may be looking for???!!

Sincerely, Bob Z. :)

For what's its worth, I replaced a A/F Sensor today on my 2000 Camry (California emmission) 2.2L, 4 cylinder engine as I was getting P1135 and P1130 codes. I bought the sensor for my toyota parts store ($200.00) and because its only a 4-cylinder the sensor sits right in the front of the engine and literally took 5 mins to switch out.

I disconnected my battery before starting the job (not sure why I did) as it took no time at all. Anyway, upon starting her up no check engine light and no code errors when I plugged in and ran diagnostic test. I'm not sure the codes cleared because I disconnected the battery or because the part did the trick (???) Time will tell I guess.

R,

Todd,

what were those codes??
(as in running lean, etc.)

Just curious......

And yes, my A/F sensor
is right in front as you said
yours is!

Thanks, Bob Z. :)

Debunker: I had a bunch of codes and what I thought to be several unrelated problems. I initially reported codes P1130 and P1135, as I thought, upon doing research, those were related and would be taken care of with a new A/F sensor. In addition to those two codes I was also displaying P0125, P0171, P0420, and P1133. Since I replaced my A.F sensor yesterday I've had no CEL and no codes. Clearly appears the toyota A.F sensor fixed all, yes all, the codes.

hope that helps!!!!

Todd,

that's cool, I didn't think just changing
one part- could clear up 6 codes?!!!!!!

Wow...... I bet you were happy, to NOT
see the light come back on. 6 codes
fixed by installing 1 200$ part- not too
shabby at all!!!!

Thanks again, Bob Z. :)

P1135
 

Hello, I apologize for getting in on your thread but I`m a newbie and i`m having great difficulty opening a new topic.

I bought a 2002 Toyota Camry LE, 4 cylinder with 124000KM on the metre last year, there was absolutely no "CEL" on it until I filled it with regular gas. I called the dealer back and was told that the previous owner had babied the car and was given premium and that may be the problem.

I ignored it up until last month, as I want to sell it and invest in a 2012 Corolla.

The mechanic checked it and told me it was P1135 .

Any idea on what it may be? What most likely is wrong with it.
There is 128,422 KM on the metre now.

I have taken the battery out over night, closed the gas cap tightly ( heck i even bought a new gas cap ), thinking of getting new spark plugs etc..

The car is in amazing shape aside from this CEL , no rust anywhere visible on the vehicle and drives like new.

Any Insights will help!
THANKS
Lilly

Lillyan,

welcome...!!
I'm a newbie as well, to this list......
Been a mechanic a while ago, spent
many years in the field- but got out
of it professionally around the mid-late
90's.

Your code is- P1135Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response. (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Could just be the A/F ratio sensor, but I would leave that to
the much more experienced on this list?!! :)

Do you know if your vehicle is of the California Emissions standard?

Sincerely, Bob Z. :)

Help
 

Please help! I have a 2000 Camry Solara 4 cylinder and I recently had my car diagnosed by PepBoys after failing Connecticut Emissions Testing with several codes. One of those codes was a P1135 and the mechanic at PepBoys stated that the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. I had every thing that they stated needed to be repair fixed including non-related emissions repairs. However, my check engine light has come back on with a P1135 error.

Am I missing something?:mad:

Hi,

do you happen to know if the sensor was an *air/fuel ratio* sensor;
and not just a generic O2 sensor... it does matter from what I've been
told and read...... :)

Just my humble opinion. :) :)

Sincerely, Bob Z.
98 Camry 2.2

Which sensor did you replace?

As Debunker states, make sure the sensor is the right type (A/F or 02). Denso and Toyota brands seem to work best.

Thanks for responding. I replaced the sensor behind the catalytic converter. These repairs are starting to be very costly.

P1135 is a code for the first sensor found on the exhaust system when starting from the cylinder head and moving back to the mufflers. Location is called Bank 1, Sensor 1.

Go to the link below:

2001 Toyota Camry Problem Check Engine Light On, Code P1135

There are 3 photos below the photo of the book with the words Chilton on it. The first 2 show the typical location of this first sensor. You should be able to see this sensor when looking inside the engine compartment.

The 3rd photo shows a typical sensor location behind the converter. This sensor has a different code.

Make sure the correct sensor was replaced and that it was an A/F sensor design (not 02).

Hello again folks,

just an update for me... I just replaced my A/F ratio sensor
(finally) on my 1998 Camry 2.2l. (as Toyomoho had suggested).

Cleared the code that kept popping up randomly-
P0171 System too Lean(Bank 1)(Sensor 1)

All seems to be fine now- no more light...... THANX
Toyomoho!!!!!!

Will report on mileage soon............!!

Sincerely, Bob Z. :)

'98 Camry - oxygen sensor - CA or not?
 

1998 Camry LE, 2.2L

My daughter called me to report that her CEL is on and she's getting a P1133 and P1135 codes. So, I figure I need to replace the upstream oxygen sensor. Then I remember that the part is different for CA-compliant cars, so I ask her to check the sticker under the hood. Here's what she sent back:

"...meets the standards set by the US EPA and the state of california"

Does this mean I need a CA-compliant sensor? As I understand it, the parts are very different (in function and in price), so I have to get this right.

Is there anything else I should look for to be absolutely sure I have the correct part? Is she looking in the right place?

Thanks!

'98 Camry - oxygen sensor - CA or not?
 

Hello everyone....

just my 2 cts' worth again........ :)

My 98 Camry has the California Emissions,
and I did get the "California Emission" air/
fuel sensor when replacing mine (upstream).
No issues since replacing it, as Toyomoho
suggested to me.

As I was going to post awhile ago also, the
mileage has been pretty decent. High 20's
for mostly highway, low 20's in the city. I'm
happy. Always looking for little tricks to up
those figures a bit!! ;)

But back to you/your A/F sensor, there is
the California Emissions, and Federal Emissions
packages- that about it as far as I know.......

I say get yourself the Denso (NON-Universal)
upstream A/F sensor from whoever has it the
cheapest you can find! (listed as a direct-fit
for me in my area/part stores)

Sincerely, Bob. :)

State of California = California Emissions.

Thus follow Debunker's info and get a California part, Denso (not universal type) or Toyota OEM part.

Unless the check light is blinking there repairs are not urgent.

check engine light (CEL) fixed in 5 minutes
 

1) disconnecting the battery will remove the "CEL" temporarily. (usually done by a seller before they sell or trade it in).
2) switch out the front sensor for $42 (EASY TO DO)

2000 Camry..(FRONT sensor) PART #8946506010 for 97 98 99 00 Toyota Camry Solora 2.2 L4 Oxygen Sensor O2 $42.00 (on ebay) located under hood right in the front. sprayed lubricant came right off. took about 5 minutes to replace. TOYOTA WANTED $350.00 TO DO THIS!!

https://mail-attachment.googleuserco...tD9u8LKofZCFEY
https://mail-attachment.googleuserco...tD9u8LKofZCFEY

to remove.. unsnap wire, run wire through a 7/8 circle wrench to remove sensor
 

for a 2000 Camry

Hello all ,I am a newbie,so please don't beat me up for asking the same questions.I am a true penny pincher.So I am trying to fix my car.It needs to pass CA smog(told they're the toughest in the world).I have changed the Ignition packs,both of em.With new cheap ones.So the CEL goes off ,drive 65 miles and it (CEL ) turns on again.I have it checked and now P1135 is the new code!.So,can I use a cheap o2 sensor to just get by a smog test.I am not all worried about miles per gallon.Yea I know I should,but I need tags more than anything now.Now last itme this happen I did buy the parts at the dealer(about 450 bucks for the 2),so now I need to save a couple of bucks.So can anyone feel me?Thank you.

Year of car and engine type, 4 or 6 cylinder?

OOPS,1997 Camry 4 cylinder.

P1135 is a problem with 02 sensor heater (open or short) its circuit. The first or second sensor coming off the head.

Find the sensors, one could be be under a tin heat shield on the exhaust manifold.

Check ohm reading of heater. Should be 0.8 to 1.4 ohm at 68F.

Wire colors may be blue/yellow and brown, purple/black and brown or black and green.

The 2 wires should have 9-14v when ign switch on.

For cheaper parts shop rockauto.com or shop around online. Buy a Denso brand (not a universal fit type) that is for a California emissions car. The sensors may be location specific such as upstream or downstream of the converter, get the right one.

o2 sensor
 

Thank you for the information.But I just changed them no more than 2 years ago,got them at the dealer@ 400 for both,so did these burn up?Plz advise ,thx

The sensors should last longer then this.

You will need to do some diagnostic work.

Find the possible affected sensor and get the wire colors. Read info in link below:

http://www.justanswer.com/toyota/3wl...ode-p1135.html

The sensor heater and its circuit can be checked out before changing parts. If the heater burned out, the ohm reading will be infinite.

Joey,.. Check engine light came back on! Damn!
 

Thought changing upstream o2 sensor fixed it.
will do the diagnostic work suggested
1) doubt it's the 25 amp A/F heater fuse since the CEL went off for three days.
2) whats a sensor heater? and if the heater is burned out, how hard to fix??

DIAGNOSTIC TEST SHOWED GAS CAP NEEDED TO BE REPLACED!

o2 sensor
 

Joey,say I read the artical.But it refers to the sensor close to the fire wall,is this 6 cyl,he is refering to?Cuz my AFR sensor I see is in the radiator side.Please advise.And really thank you for your time and help.:eek:

Good catch. Should be same diagnostic procedures for the individual sensors for either 4 or 6 cylinder. The V6 will have more sensors.

The code is stating the sensor heater circuit is not working based on the amount of current draw or lack of. The heater works like a soldering iron works or small heating element. The computer monitors the current to the heater. Too much amps indicates a short in the sensor wiring or heating element, too little or zero indicates a broken circuit or burned out element.

The sensor heater element resistance can be checked with an ohm meter.

The computer cycles the power to the heating element. Checking the power at the computer indicates if the computer is working.

If the power cycling and voltage at the sensor is working as specified the computer is also working OK. If not then power should be checked at the computer to determine if the wiring is bad.

Computer failure happens but more often it is sensor problem still requires a 3 year/36K warranty on them thus failure at this time is uncommon.

Air/Fuel Sensor
 

Hello.can anyone,tell me if a air/fuel sensor DENSO PART #234-9024($150.00 VS$60.00) is the same as DENSO PART #234-9008 are interchangable?They're both air/fuel sensors,THEY'RE NOT O2 SENSORS. I do know they're used on toyota's,but different size engines,a 2.2 vs a 2.5.I have tried to look up the spec's on DENSO'S web site but no luck.The connectors are the same.I checked.I am trying to save some $$$here.I think they will but want a second opinion.:eek:thx

O2 sensor -vs- air/fuel ratio sensor
 

Hi,

with just a quick look at the connectors (up close).......
I would venture to say no. I hear you with trying to
save what you can, so you can spend only where
you really NEED to though!!

I would just try and Google the Denso part numbers
a bit, see if any of the online car part sites can help
get that price down a few more $$$.

Good Luck!!!!
Sincerely, Bob. :)

Try looking up the part number at Rockauto.

here is a 4 page list and prices of different brands you are looking for 1997-1999 Toyota Camry Air Fuel Ratio Sensor | Partsgeek.com

Sensor
 

Hello,and thx for the information.I have bought parts from the Geek.I am trying to cross reference the 234-2009 to the 234-4626.I tried the Denso web site no luck.So if someone out their has used a senor that is designed for another car but can work on other camrys this would be great information.:rolleyes: