I have power window problem with Camry 1998 model. I took off the door panel and un-plugged the motor wire to lower down the window manually. Then I tried to rise up the window, it worked, but I cannot lower it down. I tried with a new motor and old one later and it cannot rise up any more. Any idea ? Please help. Thanks.

 

Is the door panel still off? If so apply 12V directly to the motor. Reversing polarity reverses the motor rotation.

Where are you checking for voltage?

 

Yes, the door panel is still off. I measured and the voltage is not 12V, but 18 V. I applied to the motor and nothing happened. For Down switch, the voltage is 0.0v.
I have the user manual and don't know where to check the continuity. Don't know what IE2, IN2 and BP1 are and where they are located.

 

You applied 12V directly to the red and green wires of the motor and nothing?

 

Joey, thank you so much for your time and help.

I did following: (1) I made wire with alligator clip and prob pin to directly apply 18v ( not 12 v ) to both my new motor and old motor, they both are working either way, therefore the problem is not from my motor; (2) I have a user manual and found the schema. I used multimeter to test the switch and the switch is good; (3) I put the switch back and tried both the UP and Down bottom. I can used the UP function for a short time, then I cannot use it. I measured and I still got about 18 V voltage. I cannot use the Down function at all.

My conclusion is (1) There is connection problem for the Down function related circuit somewhere; (2) There is some problem with the UP function.

Any idea ?

Thanks again.

 

Which window does no work correctly?

Search this site for past threads on power window problems for Camry years from 1992 to 2001 as pretty much the same system.

There is no chassis ground electrical return at the motor. If a passenger window the wiring from the master switch does this.

The passenger windows have two modes of operation. One mode is by the master switch and one mode by the window switch. The wiring for each switch is slightly different.

The master switch has two wires running to each passenger window switch (striped colored wires). These wires provide both positive and negative power depending on the selected position of the master switch. Here the power goes from the master switch through the individual switch to the motor. The individual switch serves as a conduit for the power and does do anything beyond this.
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Each individual switch also has a purple wire going to it from the master switch. This wire always has +12V when the ign switch is turned to allow the windows to operate. When the individual switch is moved +12V power runs to a one or the other wire of the motor as selected by the switch position. At the same time the switch connects one or the other striped wire from the master switch to the other wire of the motor to serve as the return ground wire.

If the passenger switch is moved to the opposite location, the purple wire is connected to the opposite wire to the motor and the other wire from the master switch to that opposite wire of the motor to serve as the ground return.

It is common for the power window wiring between running between the drivers door and chassis to break due to the ongoing door usage and wiring flexing. If there is break in the wiring most likely it is here.

Operate the master and individual window switch and determine if the window can go up or down. Depending on what happens this will provide information as to which colored wire has a problem.

 

Were you able to resolve this?

 

Check your Master switch. Mine was broken in such a way that the switches for the passenger side were sitting in the UP position. Remove your Master and take it apart to confirm.