Replacing the 2 small heater hoses
 

I'm going to replace the 2 smaller heater hoses on my 95 camry (they are original). They are weeping and I have to keep adding antifreeze every now and then.
These are the ones right behind the air box and below the distributor and go into the firewall. The little elbow one still looks good. In fact the ends by the firewall look new compared to the other ends which are weeping.
So my question is:
Do I need to drain the radiator, or engine of antifreeze or can I just remove these hoses
and try and catch any drips and just top off when I am done.
Anything special to watch out for?
Thanks

You mean heater hoses?

Suggest draining the radiator as hoses may be below the top of the radiator. This will save making a mess. When draining make sure the heater hose valve is open.

When draining take note even though there is a hole in the plastic shroud under the radiator, not all coolant will move through the hole. Be prepared for coolant dripping down on the ground or as it flows along the top of the shroud or place catch pans under the area.

The hoses going into the radiator are pushed onto the metal tubes which extend through the firewall into the engine compartment. These tubes are very thin and soft, perhaps brass. If the hoses are stuck and you try twisting them the result can be twisting of the metal tube. If hoses are stuck CAREFULLY slit them to allow removing.

Once both hoses are removed suggest flushing out the heater core with a garden hose to remove any debris.

Of course coolant is toxic to people and animals thus wash away any excess off the engine and that dripped onto the ground.

When adding coolant keep the heater valve open. Try to keep track of how much coolant drained out and add about the same. Squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses to burp out air when adding coolant. Add as much coolant as possible, preferably about the same that was drained out. It is possible if not careful to be several quarts low on coolant when refilling resulting in engine over heating at start up due to lack of coolant in the engine block.

Once the thermostat opens the coolant level may drop, add more coolant to adjust for this.

Thanks for the tips -

valve open I assume means that the heat setting is all the way to hot on the rotating control knob on my dash?

Also do you suggest putting any kind of lubricant on the new hoses on re-install since those brass tubes are delicate? (silicone, vasaline, oil?)

I am using new worm geared clamps to replace the old spring clamps, I assume I dont want to overtighten those as well then.

Yes, valve at full hot.

For lube use water, coolant mix or a water soluble lube. Use of the other products you list may cause too much lube resulting in the hose not gripping the tube and popping off as the coolant system pressurizes when hot.

Over time a hose tends to attach itself to the pipe regardless of hose clamp force making it difficult to remove.