Water Pump Removal help
 

Question 1: is it possible to remove and replace the water pump without taking the crankshaft pulley off? If so how.

Question 2: If I fabricate a tool to fit pins into the pin holes in the crankshaft pulley will the pins be strong enough to withstand the torque.

IE: I take a strong piece of oak, drill holes and firmly bolt bolts to the oak with nuts aligned with the pins and drill a big center hole for a socket to fit through. I am asking because there will be a 1 inch gap between the pin holes and the board due to the lip on the pulley.

Question 3: What size are the pin holes on the pulley, so I can make what was mentioned in question 2.

What I have done thus far: Removed the alternator, coolant reservoir, motor mount and bracket, and upper timing belt cover. I have all the nuts off the bottom cover but I failed to realize the crankshaft is going directly through it.

I have also tried to wedge a large screwdriver into the flywheel teeth to stop it from turning but I am to weak :( the car manual does not mention another way of getting it off.

Any help would be much appreciated

james

What year and engine type?

Question 1) NO

Question 2) Yes.

Toyota has a special tool that attaches to the front of the pulley via bolts. It has a cut out for crank bolt access and a long handle to hold.

The holes in the pulley should be threaded, 10 or 12mm. You can pull bolts from the car if necessary to check the size.

Any board such as a 1 by 6 will do. Drills holes in the board for these bolts and a larger hole for the socket access to the crank bolt.

Bolt the board snug to the the pulley face and rotate until the board until jams up with the suspension or floor. Use a large breaker bar or impact wrench to unloosen the bolt.

Once the crank bolt is off the pulley may or may not slide off crank snub by hand. If it does not, use a bolt on puller not a jaw type. The pulley is two piece with rubber in-between. A jaw type puller can pull off the outer piece. Bolt on the puller on using the same bolt holes as above.

People have used screw drivers but unless you have a large one and strong hands its not fun.

There is a tool that bolts on where a starter bolt came out having a strong finger that engages the gear.

Thanks for the reply, I was kind of figuring I'd have to make something. When I did this on my 3000gt I ended up welding together a fork, but being 200 miles away from home at college, I do not have access to welding tools, but I do have a drill.

I have read that there is a panel on the bottom of the tranny that allows access to the flywheel, if there is such a panel does it allow a direct overhead access to the flywheel teeth, if so it would give better leverage with my scewdriver. At the moment the way the screw driver is oriented it twists and turns from the flywheel and I do not have gorilla grip.

2.2 liter 96 camry: I forgot this information can be critical

Yes, understand having nothing to work with and needing to get a job done.

The screwdriver method is often easier said then done.

Try the board approach, it really works. These day most hardware stores have metric bolts.

If you can find pins that fit the holes this may also work. The bolts are 10 or 12 mm, an internet search should provide the thread major diameters. Make the pins long enough to go all the way through the hole but not too long as they can bend.

A few more ways that have worked.

A strap wrench around the pulley.

Install the socket with breaker bar onto the crank bolt. Align the bar to jam tightly! against the frame or better yet the ground. Disable the ign system to prevent the engine from starting if turned over. "Bump" the starter using the ign key. This forces the starter via the crank to do the turning.

I have never done BUT others swear by it, it does work.

Keep in mind you will also need to tighten the bolt again, this might effect your choice method to loosen it.

If needing info, the Autozone website has detailed repair info on makes/models of cars in the sites vehicle repair guide section.

So the wood and bolt method did not pan out nicely. Lets just say it didn't work and I got the bent bolts out of the pulley.

Anybody know of the proper tool for this job and where to buy it. The tools I find never specifically say for 96 2.2 liter camry or for 5S-FE engine.

The links below shows what Toyota uses, page 8.

http://www.yotarepair.com/5S-FEtimingbelt.html

and

http://www.club-tc.com/forums/engine...l-install.html

Click on the photos for enlargement.

These are the part numbers for the tools, a Google search will turn up hits with pictures along with aftermarket tools.

09213-54015

09330-00021

91651-60855

These tools are expensive for a one time job but the drawings will give you an idea of what the tool is and how it installs.

The gap in the pins is to great allowing them to bend, plus they are not bolted to the pulley.

Can you find a hardware store selling metric bolts, bolts long enough to span from the pulley thread through the board. If so, fabricate a spacer to fill in the area between the board (would might work) and recessed pulley face area, then bolt up the board tightly.

Bolts might be M6 X 1.0 X whatever length is needed.

You might be able to make a homemade strap wrench from an old belt and a section of metal pipe.

Could rent a heavy duty electric impact wrench.

And there is the bump start method.

Might check if your college has a metal shop lab or repair shop for engineering, agriculture majors etc and take a visit. As a student I used to go this route if needing some help. Worth a try.

Well the water pump has been replaced, also I normally like to write about the problems I came across for others to read.

In my experience removing the starter and holding a beefy screw driver in the flywheel will work if the crankshaft pulley bolt is torqued to spec (80ft-lb) and not rusted. For my car the previous owner replaced the timing belt and over torqued the bolt. I ended up researching the bump start method, pulling the spark plugs in fear of the engine starting from this method and used the starter to break the bolt loose. This method is really ingenious.

When putting the bolt back on torqued to 80ft-lbs, I had no trouble holding the screwdriver in place while my friend tightened it which lead me to believe it was over tightened previously.

The pins that come with the OTC 4754 pulley holder will not fit this engine. I also ended up busting a 6mm bolt in the one of the threaded pulley holes (I got it out after pulling it off). After using the bump start method to break the bolt loose I threaded the threadless pulley holes with a 1/4 inch tap, which turned out to be the perfect size. I then used a harmonic balancer puller with the newly threaded holes to pull it off.

Also when I tried using stainless steal 1/4 inch bolts to break the bolt loose, I bent those to the point where I feared breaking them.

Put it back together, runs fine so far :)..............Im still wondering why in the hell they would they use a 6mm screw size on a recessed pulley face to remove the pulley/break loose the bolt, hopefully its the last time I have to mess with it.

Thanks for posting back the results.

The previous owner repair may have used an impact wrench, hence the tight bolt.

The Toyota pulley holding tool bolts up tightly against the pulley, this minimizes bolt defection when a load is applied.