The Best & Only Intake That Works. $25-40usd
 

Here's how to build the only intake that *actually* does something constructive:
Get on ebay & buy a 2.75" to 3" silicon coupler, and an AFM Adapter WITH a cone filter. That should set you back $25-30.
Go to... Anywhere Lowes/Home Depot / Auto store. Buy a plastic 5/8" barb, 2' of 5/8" hose, and something like Automotive Goop.

1) Drill / grind a 5/8" hole in the top, or bottom of the AFM housing on the flat spot, AFTER everything & just BEFORE the hose flange
Attachment 4719
2) Cut the barb in half, leaving the flange on one side intact (Mine was a 5/8" to 3/4" barb)
Attachment 4720
3) Push the hose barb in the hole from the inside out. That way it catches on the flange & gives you some surface area. Goop/Epoxy/Whatever the hose barb in
Attachment 4721
4) Bolt the AFM adapter to the AFM, & clamp the filter on
5) Clamp the silicon coupler to the AFM
6) Rotate the entire intake clockwise about 45-60* on the throttlebody when you install it
7) Install the 5/8" hose VERY GENTLY
8) Reconnect the AFM
9) Pull the EFI fuse, and count to One - Brandon-kicks-a-lot-of-ass. Then replace it.

This accomplishes moving the AFM as close to the throttle plate as possible. This increases the resolution of data that the ECU see's to the maximum it ever will, and increase throttle response across the board. It also gives the best transition, shortest, and smallest amount of intake restrictions currently possible. It's the only way you're *actually* going to gain power with an intake, unless the intake includes a n2o fogger, or a turbo at some point.

Not to mention it's... A very aggressive sound. Especially after modding the ACIS closed.
Remember to take off the wire clip on the AFM to get the harness off... Otherwise you'll rip half the PCB out when you tug the cable.

Attachment 4722

Attachment 4723

(I had some 2.75" couplers on hand so I used that. But you want to use a 2.75" to 3" coupler.
You can also adjust the AFM cog. See previous posts on that.