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Can an exhaust leak casue the car to bog upon acceleration?

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Old 06-28-2016, 08:54 PM
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DLW
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Default Can an exhaust leak casue the car to bog upon acceleration?

I gave my 98 2.2 4cyl 260,000 miles to my parents for a 2nd car. Had to go pick it up today for an exhaust leak. This same car was passed by the emissions facilitly as a one time courtesy because the CAT monitors will not reset. It will not be able to be replated again in December if the CAT monitors don't reset. I look under the car and clearly see that the flex pipe came loose and needs to be replaced. Debating on paying shop 100 bucks for flex pipe or paying 200 and replacing myself from the manifold flange to the resonator which will give me a new flex pipe and catalytic converter with hopes of the old cat converter being bad and hoping the Cat monitors will then reset with a new one. Looking at Walker 55527 part. The bigger problem is that the car is bogging for 1 to 3 seconds upon hitting the gas pedal. Mostly when starting from a full stop. Is it possible for a car to bog due to an exhaust leak??? I was wondering if the flex pipe leaks if it could mess up the info coming from the downstream o2 sensor and mess with the computer and make it bog? Just a guess. Or could just having a bad Cat converter make a car bog upon acceleration? Any help appreciated! Thanks!
 

Last edited by DLW; 06-28-2016 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 06-29-2016, 01:15 PM
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An exhaust leak can cause emission problems, emission test issues and effect the downstream O2 sensor.

Generally the first O2 sensor inputs to the ECU to make fuel changes. The 2nd monitors the CAT's performance. Does the exhaust have two CATS, one under the chassis? If so, the

The exhaust manifold CAT should be monitored by 02 sensors. One on the intake and one on the exhaust. If the CAT is bad, there may be a Code P0420 set which means the CAT is operating below efficiency. Is the check engine light on?

A plugged CAT can cause bogging issues.

If you have a vacuum gauge you can monitor intake manifold pressure. A plugged CAT will show up on the gauge. The internet has lots of posts on interpreting the gauge indications.

One issue is the factory CAT if still working is top quality unit. Aftermarket CATs may not last as long or be as good.

Does the bogging occur engine hot or cold?

How is the idle?

What happens at highway speeds when going up a hill and placing a load on the engine?
 
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Old 06-29-2016, 03:10 PM
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It has one cat converter. Its the 4cy fed emissions one. I know the CA emissions one has one up close to the engine and then the one under the middle of the car. This car is fed emissions so just the one right before the resonator.


No 420 code but last time at emissons test facility they said the % of flow from their monitors indicated less than ideal and recommended replacement as the CAT monitors will not reset when looking at live data on my Centek monitor. They gave me a one time pass which expires in dec. this year. That was 1.5 years ago and about 12,000 miles.


CEL today shows 133, 441 and 446. the 133 says bank one sensor 1. Not for sure which and where this sensor is. I repelaced the one on the resonator pipe 3 years ago with a OEM Denso.


The 441 and 446 have been there for 3 years. Evap codes. I replaced small parts at the canister then replaced the canister with a pull form a yard. Code went away for 3 months then came back. It goes away if I fill the gas tank full then make 5-7 about 5 mile drives. 5-7 short drives and code goes away as long as gas tank stays 7/8 full. I know that's weird, but its true.


Bogging happens more often during first 5 minutes of starting, but can happen even after car been driving 15 minutes.


Have not taken it on highway or going up or down hill for any distance.


Idle has at times over the last several years loped at times. Instead of staying at about 800 rpm on needle, it will drop to about 650 and back to 800 every couple of seconds. If you turn the wheel or touch gas pedal it goes away. Been doing that on occasion for years. About 5-6 years ago it did that more and I tested the Coolant temperature sensor and it was out of spec so I replaced it with a aftermarket wells brand one and the issues went away and came back a year later but not as bad. maybe a poor quality part, maybe I should look that route, not sure. It never bogged before, just ilde loped up and down a little.
 
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