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1998 Toyota Camry All locks failed while installing keyless entry

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  #1  
Old 10-28-2018, 07:11 PM
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Default 1998 Toyota Camry All locks failed while installing keyless entry

Hello Everyone! I normally do well at troubleshooting almost anything, but this situation has me stumped and I need your help. I was installing a basic key less entry system into my 1998 Toyota Camry. It doesn't currently have an alarm or key less entry installed. During the process I hooked my two yellow wires from the key less entry module to the POSITIVE wire as indicated in the directions that came with the system. After some additional digging online and in the Amazon reviews($15 Docooler), a lot of people have indicated the directions are actually incorrect showing +12V instead of ground. When I hooked the unit up to the positive red/white wire in the steering harness I got the burned wire smell from the key less entry module. I quickly unplugged it and realized none of the lock switches were working. The locks can now only be manually pushed or turned by the key.I thought I might have blown a fuse and checked the fuse on the positive line of the key less module and the fuse for the door locks in the car. Both were good. If I double turn the key in the passenger door, I get nothing. If I press the lock switch on the passenger door I get nothing. Same for the driver side. I'm currently under the impression the incorrect polarity has shorted or ruined something. I'm not worried about the key less entry. I just want to fix the locks first.Can anyone help me figure this out?
 
  #2  
Old 10-28-2018, 08:31 PM
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Are the yellow wires supposed to be connected to +12V or what?

Find out what the red/white wire goes to.

There are also white/red wires.

What brand and model number is this keyless unit?
 
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Old 10-28-2018, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by toyomoho
Are the yellow wires supposed to be connected to +12V or what?

Find out what the red/white wire goes to.

There are also white/red wires.

What brand and model number is this keyless unit?
the yellow wires connect to ground and the red/white is the +12V constant, but I don’t care about setting up the keyless entry right now. I want to fix whatever I messed up with the factory locking system
 
  #4  
Old 10-28-2018, 10:55 PM
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The ground wires of the keyless unit were connected to +12V? Then the cars door lock system started to have issues?

If so:

Need to know where ALL the keyless unit wires connect to cars wiring (keyless unit wiring explanation). Then determine if the +12v back feed to the cars door lock system via the smoked keyless unit.

Plus what is the red/white wire connected to? Does the red/white wire having the +12v still have +12v or did fuse blow?
 
  #5  
Old 10-29-2018, 07:19 AM
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Ok, I'll give more info. Thanks for the help.

Here is the keyless entry Diagram:

I believe Type B and Type C are actually reversed.
I connected ground to a grounded screw in the kick panel.
I connected both the yellow wires to the red fused positive wire, then connected the red wire to the red/white ignition wire.
I connected the white wire to the Dark Blue/White wire in the orange plug at the bottom of the fuse box.

Nothing else was connected yet. I hooked the battery back up and pressed the key fob to see if it would lock at this point. That is when I noticed the the unit smelled burned and pulled the wiring harness from the unit. That is when I noticed to locking system had failed.

I used the above diagram along with a wiring diagram from Bulldog Security for a 1998 Toyota Camry.

* The Red/White Positive Wire is the ignition constant and is still working. Everything in the car still functions except the locks. I would have hoped a fuse would have blown and protected the system, but the door lock fuse in the fuse panel is not blown and the fuse on the keyless entry is not blown.
 

Last edited by Merkadomus; 10-29-2018 at 07:30 AM.
  #6  
Old 10-29-2018, 12:15 PM
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You are using diagram C for negative trigger (grounding)?

What did you connect the white/black wire to?

The locks are negative ground (switch grounds circuit to activate. You (and others) think diagram B is the right one as the orange wires are grounded.

You think in using diagram C, +12v was back feed into the lock wiring?
 
  #7  
Old 11-02-2018, 09:51 AM
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SOLUTION FOUND:

In order to help someone else that has this problem in the furture, I'm posting the solution.

The integration relay was the problem. It is attached to the back of the fuse box. At first glance it looks like just another connector on the fuse box, but it is actually a whole separate unit plugged into the back. Attaching wires with the opposite polarity cause damage to this relay. They are expensive new, can be found online used for about $40, I got mine from a junkyard for $25. After replacing the relay. I installed the keyless entry (sending a negative pulse instead of a positive one) in less than 20 minutes. Everything works now. Thanks for trying to assist me! Much appreciated.

NOTE: I used a wiring diagram from bull dog security that says to connect to the blue/white and blue wires under the fuse box in an orange connector. That connector is the integration relay. Other wiring diagrams recommend using the green wires in the drivers kick panel. The green wires in the kick panel did work. I also suspect if I had used the green wires in the kick panel, I would have simply blown a fuse instead of damaging the relay.

Hope this Helps.
 
  #8  
Old 11-02-2018, 10:59 AM
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Good job in diagnosing the problem!

The blue and blue/white wires are the door lock key system lock/unlock wires. Grounding one or the other wire will lock/unlock. Its a negative trigger.

Bulldog should be clearer on this.

Thanks for posting with the information.
 
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