2000 camry engine stops
 

My 2000 Toyota Camry has wired problem. It has the problem for 10 years since I bought this car salvage title in 2002.
Every time I disconnect battery to do maintenance and connect it back, and starts the car, engines stops after 30 seconds or sometimes after 3 minutes or 5 minutes when it was running on the road.
When I try to restart the car, nothing happens. There is no check engine light and starter motor does not turn. But I can see oil light on in the dash panel. Obviously there is no power to starter motor.
So what I had to do is to disconnect the battery or disconnect the main engine replay, and it starts and runs again. Then, it shut off by itself after 1 or 2 minutes.
I thought it was connection problem, and cleaned battery connector, and even changed the main engine relay. It did not help. But once it settles down after 10 times connect and disconnecting hassle, it will keep working fine for many month or one year if I do not touch battery.
Toyo dealer told me that there is no security thing installed on this model.
OBD scanner error : Link Error
What can be the problem?

There could be more then one problem.

If armed a Toyota brand security system would allow the engine to turn over but not start. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery would activate the system.

You might look for installed aftermarket security systems. If equipped there may be a switch or push button under the dash to reset the system. There may also be non-factory wiring located under the steering column plastic covers behind the steering wheel. This systems can disable the starter motor system.

If no alarm systems are installed the starter motor system would work independently of any computer nor would be monitored by the self diagnostic system.

If nothing happens when trying to start the car AND the car does not have an aftermarket alarm system that my disable the starter then check the starter system.

First make sure when attempting to start the engine to have the trans in Park or Neutral (try both) or have the clutch depressed.

For the starter motor to operate, the starter solenoid needs to receive power from two different sources then convey battery power to the starter motor.

One source is the battery where a large cable runs from the pos terminal to the starter solenoid. This power would operate the starter motor.

The other source powers the starter solenoid coil to energize it and close the switch connecting battery power to the starter motor. This solenoid power comes from the battery through the ign switch (when turned to start), then goes to a park/neutral or clutch switch to a small starter relay then to the starter solenoid.

You can bypass the above circuit by connecting a small diameter section of wire between the pos battery terminal and the small wire terminal on the starter solenoid. When the small terminal is touched by the wire the starter motor should operate.

Or use a voltmeter to measure for 12 DC power at the small wire when ign key is turned to start, trans in park or neutral or clutch pushed. If no power this is a problem in this circuit.

Sometimes the switch terminals inside the starter solenoid burn and make bad contact resulting in either no starter operation or a clicking noise. You connect a battery jumper cable between the pos battery terminal and touch the other end to the large electrical terminal on the starter motor or starter solenoid terminal whose large diameter cable goes to the motor. This will bypass the starter solenoid and starter relay circuit. If the starter motor is OK, it will engage.

On it 2002 it may not do any good to disconnect the battery in an attempt to reset the computer. It might do more harm then good as the engine may run rough for a time before returning to normal. Suggest not continuing to disconnect the battery, but wait until the problem cures itself.

The link error may be due to bad wiring or a bad computer. A bad computer has caused failure to be able to link up with the scanner but still allow the engine to run.

If replacing the computer, find one that has the exact same part number. Ebay often list computers for reasonable prices.

Can this be bad connection somewhere?
 

let me re-clarify
when the car shutdown the engine when it is runing, there is no battery light, and check engine in the dashboard. the only is I can see is oil light. So I can not start the car because there is no electricity to starter motor.
There is no factory security system or 3rd party one either.

What could be the problem? can this be bad EFI relay ?
I also suspect there is short somewhere that causes engine shutdown because I remember I slam close the hood then that kind of problem acted up.

should a car shutdown engine if the starter soloniod has problem?

I am just guessing. I know nothing about electricity stuff. So Please ignore what I say if it does not make sense.
Thanks toyomoho,

John

Lets say the engine quits and the ign key is STILL in the on position. Are you stating the only dash light illuminated is the oil pressure light, no other dash lights are on?

If you move the ign key to off then back to on do another dash lights illuminate?

Given the above situation (engine died and key in on position) what still works? Head or taillights, brake lights, radio, horn, heater blower, if you open the door does the open door chime work, window wipers, cig lighter, power windows?

If you then move the gear shifter to Park or Neutral gear (assuming an auto trans) and turn the ign key to start, what happens. Nothing, a click, engine turns over. etc?

Power from the battery splits off into various circuits. The EFI really is one of these circuit. The EFI controls the fuel injectors and ign coils. Has nothing to do with the starter solenoid circuit.

A bad EFI really could cause the engine to quit and not restart, but would not prevent the engine from turning over when the ign key was turned to start.

The starter solenoid circuit only engages when the ign key is turned to start. It is independent of the other circuits such as EFI relay.

Yeah, My key was still in the same position when engine shutdown by it self, and oil light was the only light.I do not turn on headlight but headlight and door light, seat belt sight and horns and everything worked but battery light and check engine light. to start the engine, there must be check engine and battery light ready.
But I did not see them and twisted key to start, nothing happened.
Until I disconnect the negative side of battery, battery and check engine light would not return to normal. I do remember long time ago that I tried shifting gears around, but the same thing.
once I reconnect the battery, and start the car, it starts and shutoff after 30 seconds, sometimes can stay for 3 minutes, sometimes car runs for 15 minutes then stops at any time.
Last year I take out the starter motor and checked every connection to find any short to
battery. It was fine.
Now the car runs fine. It acted up Feb, 2012, then couple of days ago.
So I do not know when I could happen on the freeway.
I thought it may be because of bad main engine relay, and changed a couple of main relays , result was the same thing.
if I am very sure that is the computer problem, then I may have to buy one and go to the dealer to program it. But I have no idea.

Thanks Joey,

John

What type of engine does the car have, 4 cylinder or V6 as the wiring is slightly different?

You may have more then one problem.

In the previous post I listed tests you can conduct to check the starter which will bypass the ign key, starter relay, etc. The results of these test will show if there is there is starter solenoid or motor problem or something in the starter circuit including the Park/Neutral switch.

Check operation of the wiper, turn signals and heater as this circuit receiver power from the same source as the Gauge fuse that power the dash lights.

Does the gear indicator lights on the dash work, these are also powered by the Gauge fuse as is the check engine light, oil pressure, cruise control, seat belt, brake, O/D and other lights.

The engine computer could have something to do with the check engine light but not the oil pressure, brake light, battery, etc.

my car is 4 cylinder one.
what can be the possible cause for shuting down the engine by itsef?
To do these test I have to disconnect battery which can cause engine-shutdown problem. once the problem activates,
1. I will do your recomendation test( all the light test).

I will do fowwing test too when the car engine shutdown by iteself.
2. connecting a battery jumper cable between the pos battery terminal and touch the other end to the large electrical terminal on the starter motor
3. connecting a small diameter section of wire between the pos battery terminal and the small wire terminal on the starter solenoid

I think I may have chance to do this weekend because i need to drive this car everyday to work.
I will post result for you.

Many many thanks to you

John

When doing the connection keep in mind the battery outputs a lot of amps. Be very careful about not touching the end of the positive cable to ground. If access is too limited at the starter to risk grounding the cable, connect the cable the starter terminal first then touch the other end to the positive battery terminal.

Do the small wire test first, if the starter now runs no need for the other test. By doing this test first you need only use a small diameter wire, not a large battery cable. This test will bypass the ign key, starter relay (not starter solenoid) Park/Neutral switch, wiring, etc.

Tested did not work.
 

Hey Joey,

I tested every light and everything that you let me test when the engine shut off by itself and there was no battert light and check engine light.
except check engine and battery light every light came on and radio, turn signal, headlight, gear light and every light worked.
but I had to reset the main engine relay to get the check engine and battery light so that I can start the car.
It starts fine but just shuts off after 10 senconds or sometimes one minutes, or longer.
now it seems I have to reset the main engine relay many times to make engine runs normal.
Today I could not even make the car engines runing normal.
I thought I could be a ignition coil problem. I changed the secondary one, and still no go. changed primary one first time and the same result.

I tested your suggestion about connecting directly to the battery, and no luck. engine shuts off in a second. It seems it causes more problem.
as long as battery light and check engine light are ready, then car starts fine. does that mean ignition relay is fine?
My big question is why there is no battery light when engine shut off by itself?

Many Thanks,

John

try to look at this page fixya.com/tags/camry_stalls_stop that might help you out...

If you don't have a wiring diagram for this car suggest you find one. A Haynes shop manual has these or try your local libraries auto repair section for something like Motor repair books or reference desk may have OEM shop manuals. The AutoZone website may have something in the site vehicle repair guide section.

Are the check and alt light bulbs OK (not burned out), as in sometimes they are illuminated?

You stated the issues are the engine quits, the check and alt lights do not come on after the engine quits and when the engine quits nothing happens when the ign key is turned to start.

And that the car has no theft system either Toyota installed or aftermarket.

The alt dash light and starter systems are wired through the ign switch. Might check the ign switch.

The check light receives power from the Gauge fuse. In the dash wiring the check light is on the same power buss as the tach and speedometer.

To illuminate the light, the computer grounds the negative terminal of the bulb to complete the circuit.

The computer is behind the glove box. Might locate the computer, find the Green/Red wire from the engine check bulb. Unplug that harness from the computer and ground that wire, ign switch on to determine if the bulb now comes on.

Neither the alt or starter circuits run through the engine computer. The things they have in common are the Gauge fuse, ign key (AM1 circuit-Note the ign key is two separate switches built into one switch), AM1 fusible link and 100A Alt fusible link.

When the ign which to ON, the AM1 fuse also powers the wipers and turn signals.

When the ign is to ACC the fuse powers the radio and cig lighter.

Next time the engine dies check if the wipers and turn signals still work.

If the bulbs are bad, light will not come back on, but light did come back on every time I reset the computer by resetting the Main Engine Repaly.

I tested turn signal, radio and wipper worked when there is no Battery light and check engine light. but no crank, and if I turn the key, the clock goes way and I release it, the clock comes back on. does that mean ignition switch is fine?

Is engine shut off problem a separate problem or it also related to No Battery and Check engine light problem? they happen at the same time.

can a bad ignition switch shut off engine when it is runing?
if it does then, I will buy one and test it.
Yesterday I also thought about replacing a circuit replay or fuel pump but it seems they may not be the problem.
I already replaced the second ignition switch, ignition cables, spark plugs, main engine relay, head relay. just no luck.

Thanks Joey,

John

did not find anything that can help me.
 

my question is if the ignition switch is not funtioning correctly, may a running engine shut off?
after firing up the car, the ignition switch does nothing right? that means engine shutting off problem nothing to do with it.
Just no idea.
This is my 10 years puzzle.

The ign switch being ON continues to supply power to the engine computer and alternator.

I will replace the ignition switch with weekend.
see how it goes.

Thanks Joey,

John

I tried that site, and no luck.
I changed the ignition switch today, and the same result; engine starts and shut off after a minute.
everything works when engine dies except there is no battery and check engine lights( it looks no power to the ignition system. i guess computer may think that the engine is still running)

could it be crankshaft position sensor?

Thanks,

John

A bad crank sensor can cause the engine not to start but would have no affect on the dash lights.

Guessing the car wiring has a problem.

Did you find a wiring diagram yet?

The alternator system is separate from the engine computer. Even if the computer turned the engine off, the alt light would come on.

10 years mystery was solved
 

Hey Joey,
I worked on the car last saturday.
It was the connection problem. There was bad contact point at the main relay which controls the ignition and engine status.

I replaced the entire relay box with a used one, and the problem is gone.
I went to a couple of car forums and nobody found the cause. Now I found it. It was easier this time becase there was no check engine and battery light at all due to the connection point was completely burnt.
I am so exited about it.

Thank you very much for your support.

John

Thanks for posting back with the fix.

Great job on finding a very difficult problem, your perseverance paid off!!

Good job!

Joey