Changing Thermostat on 94 V6 engine help!
#1
12-13-2011, 06:58 PM
Changing Thermostat on 94 V6 engine help!
Hi Everyone, I am a New member. My car need to replace the thermostat, but I want to know threre is certain way to put the thermostat in the housing? Some web site I see they tell put it in the direction 12 o'clock because I see the back of the thermostat housing is 2 wings( sorry I don't know how to describe it?) Second question is I saw the diagram in the Auto zone web site there is a bleeding valve on the top, do I need to release air after changing the thermostat? also so many gaskets, which one do I need to replace, this is the first time I am dealing with V6. Thank you very much for your support in advance.
#2
12-14-2011, 01:08 PM
The AutoZone website may have something in their vehicle repair guide section about changing the T-stat. You will need a password but the site is free and contains a lot of good info.
The T-stat has a gasket around its flange, the pipe going into T-stat housing has an O-ring.
Determine if gasket comes with the T-stat. Often it can be reused but if out in the middle of nowhere best to have all the parts.
If you end up pulling the pipe out of the housing then replace the O-ring. This is a standard metric O-ring, perhaps the auto parts store has it or get one from Toyota.
You want the spring side of the T-stat installed facing the engine. The vent hole on the T-stat flange (or what may look like a loose rivet-jiggle valve) oriented in the up position so that it aligns with the upper stud that helps hold on the housing.
If there is no dedicated vent onto top of the housing or engine area it bolts to then no venting is required.
When draining the coolant if possible make a note as to how much came out.
Add coolant and when almost full squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses to purge the air out of them. As more air comes out, add more coolant.
Ideally you will end up adding slightly less coolant that was drained out.
With the radiator cap off, start engine and let it heat up. Once the T-stat opens the coolant level may drop, add more coolant. Check for leaks at the housing, pipe, etc.
Fill the overflow reservoir with coolant then with radiator cap on drive the car. Check for leaks.
When engine is cold remove that radiator cap to make sure the coolant is really topped off. Check overflow tank fluid level and if required top off.
The T-stat has a gasket around its flange, the pipe going into T-stat housing has an O-ring.
Determine if gasket comes with the T-stat. Often it can be reused but if out in the middle of nowhere best to have all the parts.
If you end up pulling the pipe out of the housing then replace the O-ring. This is a standard metric O-ring, perhaps the auto parts store has it or get one from Toyota.
You want the spring side of the T-stat installed facing the engine. The vent hole on the T-stat flange (or what may look like a loose rivet-jiggle valve) oriented in the up position so that it aligns with the upper stud that helps hold on the housing.
If there is no dedicated vent onto top of the housing or engine area it bolts to then no venting is required.
When draining the coolant if possible make a note as to how much came out.
Add coolant and when almost full squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses to purge the air out of them. As more air comes out, add more coolant.
Ideally you will end up adding slightly less coolant that was drained out.
With the radiator cap off, start engine and let it heat up. Once the T-stat opens the coolant level may drop, add more coolant. Check for leaks at the housing, pipe, etc.
Fill the overflow reservoir with coolant then with radiator cap on drive the car. Check for leaks.
When engine is cold remove that radiator cap to make sure the coolant is really topped off. Check overflow tank fluid level and if required top off.
#3
12-14-2011, 03:18 PM
The AutoZone website may have something in their vehicle repair guide section about changing the T-stat. You will need a password but the site is free and contains a lot of good info.
The T-stat has a gasket around its flange, the pipe going into T-stat housing has an O-ring.
Determine if gasket comes with the T-stat. Often it can be reused but if out in the middle of nowhere best to have all the parts.
If you end up pulling the pipe out of the housing then replace the O-ring. This is a standard metric O-ring, perhaps the auto parts store has it or get one from Toyota.
You want the spring side of the T-stat installed facing the engine. The vent hole on the T-stat flange (or what may look like a loose rivet-jiggle valve) oriented in the up position so that it aligns with the upper stud that helps hold on the housing.
If there is no dedicated vent onto top of the housing or engine area it bolts to then no venting is required.
When draining the coolant if possible make a note as to how much came out.
Add coolant and when almost full squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses to purge the air out of them. As more air comes out, add more coolant.
Ideally you will end up adding slightly less coolant that was drained out.
With the radiator cap off, start engine and let it heat up. Once the T-stat opens the coolant level may drop, add more coolant. Check for leaks at the housing, pipe, etc.
Fill the overflow reservoir with coolant then with radiator cap on drive the car. Check for leaks.
When engine is cold remove that radiator cap to make sure the coolant is really topped off. Check overflow tank fluid level and if required top off.
The T-stat has a gasket around its flange, the pipe going into T-stat housing has an O-ring.
Determine if gasket comes with the T-stat. Often it can be reused but if out in the middle of nowhere best to have all the parts.
If you end up pulling the pipe out of the housing then replace the O-ring. This is a standard metric O-ring, perhaps the auto parts store has it or get one from Toyota.
You want the spring side of the T-stat installed facing the engine. The vent hole on the T-stat flange (or what may look like a loose rivet-jiggle valve) oriented in the up position so that it aligns with the upper stud that helps hold on the housing.
If there is no dedicated vent onto top of the housing or engine area it bolts to then no venting is required.
When draining the coolant if possible make a note as to how much came out.
Add coolant and when almost full squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses to purge the air out of them. As more air comes out, add more coolant.
Ideally you will end up adding slightly less coolant that was drained out.
With the radiator cap off, start engine and let it heat up. Once the T-stat opens the coolant level may drop, add more coolant. Check for leaks at the housing, pipe, etc.
Fill the overflow reservoir with coolant then with radiator cap on drive the car. Check for leaks.
When engine is cold remove that radiator cap to make sure the coolant is really topped off. Check overflow tank fluid level and if required top off.
Thank you very much for your explaining in details. I am really appreciated!
#4
12-14-2011, 07:50 PM
V6 is very complicated vehicle... getting info to other site is a good way to start understanding it.
#5
12-26-2011, 12:14 AM
This weather it will stay cool for an extended period because the engine is slower to heat up than say on a hot summer's day.
Get a friend or mechanic to bleed the air from the heater hoses first as this is the most likely cause of no heat from the heater.
Get a friend or mechanic to bleed the air from the heater hoses first as this is the most likely cause of no heat from the heater.
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