I am in the middle of replacing timing belt. All has gone OK so far, but now that I'm trying to put it all back together, I CANNOT get the pulley (crank) bolt to thread in (start). I went to Toyota and got a new bolt, and it wont start either.
What I am afraid of is when I used the "puller" to pull the belt pulley off, perhaps I damaged some of the first threads on the crank. I feel so stupid for allowing that to happen! Anyway, any help, or suggestions would be highly appreciated! STUCK, Rick

 

Next time find something round and the right diameter to place on crank snout, then place puller tip on this. Or unscrew bolt a way and put tip on face of bolt.

As to your problem. The fix is something called a thread chaser. This is threading tap (as in tap and die). It is designed not to cut new treads but clean up the old ones. Also called rethreader or rethreading bolt die, rethreading chaser. They are used a lot to cleanup spark plug threads in cylinder heads.

You need to know the bolt size and thread pitch which will be metric. Metric bolts like US come in standard size and threads. If you have measuring tools measure the shank diameter. You will then need to figure out pitch. The link has a thread pitches for comparison. Metric pitch is NOT threads per inch like US but distance between thread peaks. Or the Toyota parts person may know diameter and pitch.

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...read-Sizes.pdf

With size and pitch look for a rethreading tap. Some autoparts stores rent out tools, call tools houses, Sears, Walmart. The internet would have sellers like the one below:


You can also try to clean the threads up with a small file or very small die grinder. But if there is a tool then this is the best route forward.

 

Dear Sir,
Yes, youre right, I pulled a dummy. Hindsight IS 20-20 isnt it? Anyway thanks for your help! Couldnt find a thread chaser (had never heard of that critter before), but I have a tap ordered in the right size.
Thank you for your help!




Rick

 

Great.

This tap design will cut new threads, make sure the tap is straight with the hole.

Most people including myself have damaged threads in a hole or on a shaft for one reason or another. You took the right route in not trying to force the bolt into the hole and making things much worse. It is tempting to bang on or force things but this just makes it worse.

 

Thank you sir, it's nice to know I'm not the only clutz out there! No insult intended.
Thanks for the advice about the tap, yes I was aware of that (keeping it straight) but I do appreciate the advice!

Rick

 

I have another question if anyone can help me...
Is there a plate, or a washer of some sort behind the #1 tension pulley? I thought I saw a plate fall off when I took the old one off, but I cant find it, did I 'dream' it was there? It seems like there ought to be something behind it, when I tighten it down, the pulley doesnt move, and I know it's supposed to.

Thanks Rick

 

Is this a 4-cylinder?

No 1 idler is connected to a plate. Plate slides onto a pin allowing it to rotate around pin. Idler bearing has slot for hold down bolt allowing it to be adjusted prior to tightening bolt.

Plate and idler look like item in link below:
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...714&cc=1317483

No 2 idler is fixed.

V6 has something similar but different bearing hold/bearing design and uses a hydraulic tensioner.

 

Thank you very much! I was almost positive I saw a plate fall off when I took the tension pulley off. I guess I wasnt dreaming, I've just got to find that little buggar.

 

The plate and bearing are attached and sold as unit. If no longer attached, find out why.

 

Yes, I realize the tension pulley is mounted on a plate. But when I first took the original off, there was a thin plate behind the pulley and it's attached plate. So I definitely have to find that thin plate. Even though the Haynes book doesnt mention anything about it, I know there has to be something behind it, because when I tighten the bolt the pulley will not roll.
Thank you very much for your input.