2AZ-FE Ignition Coil electrical harness clips
 

If any of you have broken off the ridiculous tabs on the coil electrical harnesses, like I did working on all these issues on my ride, the dealer part number for the replacement connector housing is 90980-11885. My dealer wants $11.93/each, but Camelback Parts has them for under $6/each:

http://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/par...&siteid=214329

Just FYI.

Could you post that link again, please? The link didn't work.

Sure, see if it works this time:

Toyota Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping

Basically you can go to parts.camelbacktoyota.com and search for part 90980-11885. I've seen other posts on other forums about this that state other sites have them for about the same price.

And to be clear, you are talking about that plastic tab that snaps off of the coil where the wire connects, right? If that's the case, I need to order two as I have them kind of wedged so they won't come off!
Thanks for the link, I thought I would have to buy the whole plug/coil assembly and not just the housing.

Yep, that little crappy plastic tab that holds it in place. I brought it into the dealer, parts department was clueless, had to have a mechanic pull the info. He told me you depress and pull out the individual wires then put them back into the new harness clip (the entire plastic end is replaced, not just the little tab that breaks off), in the correct order of course :) I am not in a big rush to order them, but probably will just after Christmas, and will post a video of repairing them up for any that need it. And you're welcome!

Cool. Again thanks and I look forward to your video.

I ordered the replacement parts last week, I believe they are in at the dealer. I should have a video up by this weekend showing the replacement.

Nice, I'm looking forward to it as it is something that I should fix on my car.

I have them in my hand, got my laptop in yesterday and tested my borescope on it (works perfect), and loaded my Chinese Techstream clone. AWESOME. Sooooo, lots to post up in the coming days:

video of changing the clips
video of pre-Kreen soak on the piston tops and valves (think I will remove the cover and scope to the valves to get a baseline then again after I soak)
video of the software in action

Good days.

Looking forward to it!

Bah. Was working on the first harness to get a feel, and the fourth wire became problematic and wound up breaking at the connector. So, $15 splice part on the way. Delays delays.

This job is a massive PITA, and a good chance to really screw yourself over. That fourth wire (ground, which is WHT/BLK) snapped at the little square connector that magically locks into the clip. There was no repairing that, so I bought a new clip which had the four wires already in it to splice in.

Sort of a good thing, as I had somehow put the wires in wrong I think, on the replacement clip I was using initially (when the ground wire snapped). From what I can tell from wiring diagrams in the FSM (they do not color code the wires, at least not the pages I found on Google search), the brown wire is the power wire, from the battery. They goes to pin 1 for all coil packs. Pin 4 is the ground wire, which is WHT/BLK. This seems to be the case for all four coil harnesses. According to the diagram, the positives and grounds all join together somewhere to run to their respective locations.

Each coil has a WHT/BLU wire as well, that appears to be Pin 2. All of those also join together and connect to the ECM at E8 (location 23). Pin 3 is different per coil. Hard to tell initially (especially in low light), but coil 4 has a pale green wire, 3 has a dark green wire, and 2 has a GRN/BLK wire. Each of these go off to the ECM E8, but to different spots (IGT2, IGT3, IGT4). For coil 1 that wire is solid white, going to IGT1.

Anyway, I had swapped the brown and wht/blu, but had not ignited the engine since ground was broken. When I was fixing it all today (after the part was delivered to the wrong house a week ago, and the person brought it by yesterday). I think if I had left it that way I may have shot crank amps into the ECM. Could have been bad.

Anyway, I did a hack job of soldering in the new connector, and now it fires up fine. Moral of the story is, the connectors are a beyatch to get off (the wires somehow lock into them), and if one of them does not slide in well, you run a big risk of snapping the connector off the wire, as it is a weak point.

Avoid doing this if possible. Make sure to write down the wire codes before, and if you do go for it, better have a backup plan if a wire snaps. The middle wires (pins 2 and 3) are something like 18 gauge, so they are really thin. The positive and ground wires are heftier (I think 14 gauge). Anyway, a suck job.

Wire diagram with color coding. Would have made my life easier if I had this to begin with! I added the colors. All Pin 1 wires are BRN. All pin 4 wires are WHT/BLK. All pin 2 wires are WHT/BLU. Then each Pin 3 has a unique color (coil 1 = solid white, coil 2 = GRN/BLK, coil 3 = GRN, coil 4 = pale GRN).

Attachment 3899