95 camry not getting any power to fuel pump
 

95 toyota camry 4 cylinder not getting any power to fuel pump. To start i was driving came to a stop sign and the car died, i cranked it back up and it ran for a second or two then would not start anymore. I was not getting any fuel so i replaced the fuel pump and strainer. Still not getting fuel i found that i was not getting any power to the pump. I was told it was the circuit opening relay, so i replaced it still not getting any power at the pump. also i did the fp b+ test still no power to pump. I have ran out of money and dont know what else to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Is the car getting any power, main fuses not blown?

Jumping the B+ and FP terminals in the small box WITH ign switch ON and still no power at the fuel pump wire?

FP terminal in small box goes to same terminal on Circuit Opening Relay that the fuel pump wire goes, thus if B+ and FP jumped, pump would be powered directly.

Wire colors are pump 12v power Blue/Black, pump ground White/Black.

If you have a voltmeter check for + 12v DC at B+ terminal in box with ign switch on. If no power may have a fuse problem.

Can apply +12V DC directly from car battery to the FP terminal to check for pump operation. If doing this be careful not to touch any other terminals. If pump runs the wiring from the Circuit Opening Relay to the pump is OK along with pump. If not there is a problem.

If no B+ power check the following, EFI relay, EFI and AM2 fuses. The EFI fuse also powers the fuel injectors.

b+ has power when jumping b+ Fp, still no power at the pump

B+ terminal receives power from same power source as a terminal on Circuit Opening Relay (COR), Black/Orange (No 2 terminal). If B+ has power the EFI fuse and EFI Relay should be OK.

With B+ and FP jumped, ign on and B+ has power, power should go to a terminal at the COR (No 1) from this terminal to the pump bypassing the COR.

If B+ and FP are not jumped, when COR is powered (closed) the power at terminal 2 should go through the COR switch to COR fuel pump terminal (No 1), then to the pump (Blue/Black wire).

The COR should be powered (closed) when engine cranking over or running but not when ign switch is just in on position.

Check for power at the above COR terminals under the conditions listed.

If Ok the problem is between the wiring between the COR and fuel pump.

Make sure you are testing voltage in the wiring between the test source and good chassis ground.

Also make sure the new pump operates by applying voltage directly to the pump as installed in take. Blue/Black wire is +12, White/Black ground, or what every wire color the pump uses.

i just checked

with the ignition on i have power at the orange/black wire, but no power leaving with the blue/black wire at the circuit opening relay, (this is without the jumper on b+ and fp) no power at pump

with the igniton on and jumper across b+ and fp terminal i have power at the blue/black wire at circuit opening relay, still no power at pump

Engine needs to be cranking over or running for circuit opening relay to close and power flow from the Orange/Black wire to Blue/Black wire.

If power at Blue/Black wire when jumper used then for some reason this power is not making via the Blue/Black wire to the fuel pump. There are a couple of junction boxes in this wire to the pump. One appears behind the drivers side kick panel, the other near the fuel tank, likely the connection to the fuel pump.

Make sure the plug at the pump is OK and not damaged.

Make sure the pump actually works when directly powered.

Worst case and run a wire another wire from the circuit opening relay to the pump down the drivers side of the rocker panel where the main harness runs on this side of the car. But a cut wire would be unusual.

So I have a similar problem. But when I jump b+ to fp I do get power to fuel pump and it runs. But the engine does not start.
I have changes relays, fuses etc, cap, rotor.

Year of car and engine type, V6 or 4 cylinder?

Have you checked for ign spark?

95 camry 2.2 engine. I did not check for spark yet

Check for spark.

no spark either with the jumper or without.

Check for +12v at the white/red wire to the coil (or distributor) and igniter, ign switch on.

Remove the dist cap and determine if the rotor is turning when engine is cranking over.

power to white/red wire. rotor does not turn

If rotor does not turn, timing belt is broke. Need to replace this.

thanks

timing belt replaced. ran better than ever for two days. started missing on the way to work then died.
Rotor turns but no spark. I did jumper the fuel pump to be sure that worked. any ideas?

What condition was the old timing belt? Broken, teeth missing or ?

If no spark then no point for now investigating the fuel pump. The pump operation at engine crank over is not linked to spark but the operation of the starter motor system.

Is the ign coil built into the distributor (Federal) or external (California)? If built in the distributor cap it would have 4 spark plug wires but no coil wire.

Did you again check for 12v power at the wires suggested before?

Use the link in the private message to test the ign system.

Broken timing belt Coil must be built into distributor. 4 wires to plugs only.
I did notice some oil in distributor cap. Cap is new. Still has power to white/red wire to distributor etc.

If oil in the distributor, the distributor drive shaft seal could be bad. The internet has posts on replacing the seal plus finding a seal kit. Look under "5SFE distributor shaft seal".

Use the diagnostic info in the link provided in the private message. Check the sensor coil resistance and make sure it is within range and does not vary with time. Meaning you take a reading with an ohm meter and the resistance is not fixed, but starts to change, typically increasing.