All of a sudden no start
 

Hello, everyone. This is my first post, and it's a cry for help. First, my situation:

I work in the San Jose, Bay Area. I live 4 hours from SJ. I leave on Sunday's to get to my trailer and stay here all week for work. Been doing this for almost 4 years now.
I keep two vehicles here. My main commuter from home to San Jose and back is a 93. Dodge diesel truck, and my 1998 Camry is my vehicle to get to and from work while I'm out here, due to the better mpg's it offers. This Camry has almost 350,000 miles on her. It's been in our family since new. I've done all the maintenance on it that I am able, but stuff like the timing belts and such I've taken it to the dealer. Runs great, till two days ago
I get to the grocery, shop, and when done get in car, turn ignition on and nothing. Light all light up, but no start. No clicking, nothing. All I see is the check engine light staring me at the face. Long story short, O'rileys does a check on the battery and all is good. Alternator was replaced for new around 6 months ago. The starter was replaced, as was suggested by O'rileys parts man after he checked out my alternator and battery. So, with a new starter/solenoid, still nothing. I'm at a loss, as I do not have tools out here in San Jose. All my tools are in the dodge, which has been on jack stands for almost a month to replace a flexplate that shredded. So, I am down to the 98 Camry. I am wondering if it could be the ignition switch, or maybe the anti theft module?? Really have to get this car back going again, and will be getting my scan tool from home this weekend, but in the meantime, what should I be checking for? Thanks in advance

my thoughts and input

you had it running before you stopped so it was warm
the car does have an immobiliser but with the good key should be ok

if it doesnt crank its the starter wiring circuit to look at

check the engine bay fuses and relays check the starter relay

if the engine light stays off its wont have fault codes

other possibles
are the battery terminals full metal or insulated or round metal types
the cable between the starter and the battery can some times corrode up
are the earth points clean
any chance you could buy a cheap volt meter to see if you get 12 volts from the battery to the starter pole

Dirty hands, thnx for the advice. Here is what the O'rileys person did:
He tried jumping the starter by going from battery to starter. We could here the starting humming along, but the gear on the starter would not engage into the flywheel, which caused us to believe it was the starter solenoid. A new starter that did nothing proved us wrong.
Battery shows full 12.5 volts, so battery is good.
Cables were removed from battery and cleaned. There was only slight corrosion, as I am always checking for that and cleaning as part of maintenance.
The check engine light remains on when the key is actuated to try and start, and when left in the on position.
By the way, the car is a 98 4 cylinder hatchback, automatic transmission. LE package.
Really weird how no signs were shown that led up to this; yes, the car was warm. From work to the grocery was like 40 minutes of freeway driving.
I still use the factory key that is chipped

You mentioned the starter relay. The O'rileys guy couid hear it clicking every time I turned the ignition key to on. Any other fuses and relays I should check on?

My plan is to get my scan tool from home when I head back this weekend and check on it when I get back to the Bay Area. I will post the codes on here if it means helping someone else out who gets in this situation

The Toyota brand/installed immobilizer will allow the engine to turn over but not start.

Aftermarket security systems may not allow the engine to turn over but the auto man bypassed this system by jumping.

The check light is going to come on with ign switch. Doubt the problem is related to any system the check light (ECU monitors) as these systems are emissions related.

If the starter is humming along but not engaging, remove the starter and look at the ring gear. The teeth may be worn down to the point the starter pinion gear can not engage.

Bigragu that is good feed back there

i am out of ideas why it wont engage

to test if it is the ring gear stripped
turn the motor over by hand to different points ..see if that starter motor will grip the other teeth of the ring gear

Dirty hands, I ruled out the starter by replacing the "still good" factory starter with a new one from O'rileys. What's weird is off of the ignition switch, no hum from the starter comes about. When bypassed by touching the battery terminal and starter, it hums along, but does not engage the flywheel.
Been inquiring thru out, and what do you think about the ignition switch? Someone says it's a two part, one side heads to the starter. Could that be out?
Another suggestion came about on a possible failed starter coil...is there such a thing? Sorry for newbie type questions. I am a diesel truck guy, not a sedan, gas person.

if it is the key and ignition assembly
diy swapping out the ignition stalk

Thanks, bro! I will look into this

The starter hums as in the starter motor rotates making a high pitched whining noise? Perhaps like metal grinding on metal?

Or hums and nothing happens?

If you are connecting a battery jumper cable between the +12V battery terminal and the large electrical connection lug on the starter motor (not starter solenoid). The ign key system is being bypassed.

Update: looking at the ignition as the source for all problems. Swapped in a new ignition switch from orileys. I disconnected the harness from the still mounted factory switch. Plugged into new switch. Then using a screwdriver I was able to start the car by turning the oval slot. But when I mounted the new switch and closed up the dash and used the key to start, I got nothing. So now do you all think it may be the lock cylinder? If so, do I need to buy the ones made for s chipped key since my key is chipped? How does that all work?

over to toyomoho to answer " how that chipped key system works on your toyota


sounds like the wrong ignition switch from orileys if a hard key ..ask if they would have one suiting your programmed /chipped key for you ..


so wierd ...the only way you can start the engine is by using the oval slot

try a new battery in the original chipped key .. and original ignition switch

I did not realize/know a battery could be replaced on a chipped key. I do not see access to the inside like a screw or anything.
On another note, last nite I did the reverse of what I did with the ignition switch. I unplugged the harness of the newly mounted O'Rileys switch, plugged back into the old factory switch, turned the slot on the switch with a screw driver, and car started! Seeing that that orileys switch cost $80, I removed it, and remounted the old switch back on. Key still not starting car. If it happens to be related to the alarm or anti theft, where to check? Wondering still if the ignition cylinder is at fault. Pulled it out per the youtube video provided(thnx, btw!) and not sure what to look for that may be faulty

Does the ign switch have a transponder amplifier? Wire colors are green/white, red/blue, blue/yellow, white/black, and black/yellow.

Can't remember the color scheme, but yes on 5 wire contacts on the switch, factory and replacement

not sure if it is your no start problem

on youtube is a battery change D I Y Toyota Key Fob Remote Keyless Battery Change

The amplifier wiring is in addition to the ign switch wiring.

Does the dash have a red light blinking when the engine does not start?

Yes on the red light blinking, Toyo.
Dirty, my chipped key is not a key with remote controls; it is a black ended key with a tiny clear, square shaped figure really close to the bottom of the black portion of the key. I know it's chipped cause I have a factory all steel key with no black encasing around the "handle" and it's only good for unlocking doors and won't start the car

Toyo, Dirty, and others, I just wanted to say thanks for the big assistance. Car started. All is good. So, in hopes of helping others, here's what came about:
So, new starter installed, starter relay, no go on the fix. New starter switch, yes started the car with a screwdriver, but not when mounted and with the OEM key. Old ignition switch was still good, and started with screwdriver, so back it went. Saved $80, but ignition key still wouldn't start it. Returned the switch. A buddy of mine asked me, when using the screwdriver method, if my OEM key was close by the ignition, and I say yes. He then tells me that the chipped key must still be good or else the screwdriver trick wouldn't work. So he's thinking the cylinder for the key must be faulted. I spent the $280 to get a new cylinder with 2 new chipped keys from Orileys. Before I went with that, I went thru the reprogramming steps with my old cylinder and OEM key to make sure my car didn't lose its sync with the original key. Still no start. Installed the overpriced new cylinder in, reprogrammed the 2 new keys, and bam!!! Car started!! So new cylinder and new chipped keys. So happy. Only downfall, is I still must use the factory key to unlock the doors manually, but no big deal. Just happy to have the 98 running again. Thanks so much for all the advice, links, and YouTube vids. Till next time.....be safe, all of you.

Great job!

Thanks for posting back with the fix.

For future reference by others, if the red light is blinking the immobilizer is activated.