crankshaft bolt woes....
 

I'm trying to replace my timing belt water pump and all major oil seals around timing belt areas. I can't the the ctackshaft bolt off . It won't even budge. I tryed a air rachet gun with no luck. Do I need a air copressor with a bit more psi. The one I have puts out 90 psi. Also if anybody knows any tips or shortcuts on getting the crankshaft oil seal out and other seals it would be appreciated . I seen some you tube videos but they fail to show the whole process just bits and pieces.

Do you all think this timing belt jit I found on ebay is sufficient enough for lasting Long term http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...=1448694360185.

Do you all think this timing belt kit would be sufficient enough for the price http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...=1448694360185 .

Or should I go it a all oem Toyota brand parts kit instead. The price difference will be around 80.00 difference . I'm just wanting to make sure I put all quality parts the vehicle lasts long and I don't have to pull this engine apart again for a long time.

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The bolt torque is approx 80 ft lbs, however some mechanics use an impact wrench to install it making removal difficult.

Must ask if you are trying to rotate the bolt the correct direction to loosen, which is CCW. The bolt is RH threads.

There are some options to removing the bolt.

One is to attach a 1/2 inch or larger heavy duty socket and breaker bar. With socket installed wedge the bar against the ground or chassis then turn ign to start. Before doing this, disable the ign to prevent the engine from starting. This seems to work but I don't recommend it.

The Toyota approach is to install a tool that bolts to the harmonic balancer face to prevent it from rotating. You can build one from a section of wood with holes in it to allow bolting to the pulley face and to access for the breaker bar extension. Make the board long enough then when bolted on, it will bind with the chassis or ground when the pulley rotates. Then can a LARGE breaker bar.

Don't use any tool that attaches to the outside of the pulley as it is a two piece assy bonded with a rubber material. The bond can fail if too much torque is applied to the outside part.

All brands listed in the ad are good brands and with supplying parts to Toyota. Toyota owns part of Aisin, the company. You will be OK with these parts.

Thanks toyomoho for the helpful information .

I did the one with the breaker bar wedged and turning the engine over recently...worked great for me....

Holy crap I just cannot get the f***ING crank bolt off I tryed a air gun with 90 psi it won't even move the bolt I tryed to wedge a steel punch in the pulley hole and used a bar to wedge against the Concrete and it's everything I pretty much got used a steel pipe on the breaker bar and didn't budge even a 1/4 inch but bent the steel punch like a question mark almost. I tryed drowning it in wd40 . Any other suggestions I'm practically pulling my hair out especially because I got all the new parts ready to install.

Soak it in PB blaster, much better than WD.
Go full on impact wrench, skip the air ratchet. You can always try to heat it up with torch, just be careful of the flame.

The impact wrench is too small. The punch too light weight. If the punch had not bent the bolts would have. Have never had much luck with any penetrates.

Solutions:

Get an industrial impact wrench as used for removing large truck lug nuts and crank up the PSI.

Get a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and drive size adapter for 3/4 to 1/2 inch (might get two of these). If you don't have one, pick up a heavy duty 1/2 inch drive 6 point socket. If using a 12 point socket your risk rounding over the bolt flats. The bolt size is such an English socket will work. Harbor Freight sells a very reasonable cost 3/4 drive bar and drive adapter.

As stated in a previous post, fabricate from a section of strong wood or steel something that will bolt to the face of the balancer which is long enough to engage the floor when the crank rotates.

Place something under the extension to support it as you reef on the bar with a long cheater pipe. Have had to use 6 foot pipes on crank bolts and still needed to apply a good deal of force. On some occasions shearing off the 1/2 drive section of the adapter (that's why the spares). This all after all other attempts failed.

Once the bolt is out, inspect for rust, head and thread damage. Then apply a small amount of anti-seize compound or oil to the threads and under the head and washer. Then torque the bolt to spec minus 25% to compensate for the lubricant.

The lube increases the clamp up force thus you need to lower the torque to get the same amount as when using a dry fastener.

Thanks Joey for all informative tips. And all others who gave some knowledge . I am going to have another shot at this afternoon after work . I will post back with progress

So I was finally able to get the crankshaft bolt off I ended up using some pb blaster spray to help with breaking it free plus the force of the engine itself (the turning over method )to get it free. I had to prop a long breaker bar against two 50 pound weights and a floor jack. On both sides of the weight. Kind of a funky idea but it worked like a charm . Now I'm trying to get the balancer pulley off and having just as hard of time as I did with the crankbolt. I picked up a wheel pulling kit at harbor fright ( cheap tools) set it in place I only got the balancer half way off and one of the crappy screws it comes with keeps stripping inside of one.of.the holes on the balancer. I tryed to doctor up the screw by grinding the part that stripped and try it again but it just won't hold because of the pressure so I'm thinking 1. I either need a stronger set of screws or 2. Maybe resort to a different style puller maybe the type that looks like it has two jaws . Or get a quality wheel puller instead of Har or freight crap. Any ideas

The puller tool is OK (I have one) but the bolts are junk, get better bolts. I use ones taken off old cars. There are outlets that sell quality bolts or try hardware/auto parts stores.

Remove the bolts and use a tap to clean out the holes in the balancer. Don't use a Harbor Freight tap but a decent one from a hardware or auto parts store, etc.

Don't use a jaw type puller. The balancer is two piece. Pulling on the outer ring can pull it off the lower ring.

When using any puller make sure to protect the crank face from damage form the puller screw.

Some auto parts store loan out tools, call around.

Thank you toyomoho for your support .

So I finally was able to remove the harmonic balancer pulley I had to purchase a craftsmen pulley kit and a set of bolts that fit the diameter and depth to fit through the pulley. Once I got it off I clearly seen why it's was so difficult to remove the crankshaft sprocket it's all rusted and the end of the crankshaft was just as bad. I'm going to have to spend some time getting that rust off. One real odd thing I noticed when I pulled the timing covers off was there was a whole lot of what looked like black fiber material shavings I mean the stuff was all over everything plus mixed with oil. After further inspection I figured it was half of the timing belt I'm guessing since the belt was so loose it rubbed up against the motor case and shaved n ground off half the belt so now the belt is only half the width of its original size. I was also concerned about the washer that sits right in front if the crankshaft sprocket I think it may have been installed improperly because the cupped side was facing toward me . I'm thinking that may have contributed to the belt getting destroyed too. I'm a little worried because when I was pulling off the harmonic balancer the crankshaft turned a bit so I'm not sure if it's still at tdc. I don't want to put it all back together and it runs like crap because it's off by a tooth or so.

I was also wondering if there are any other really important seals.i should change since I have it all torn apart. So far I have a new crankshaft seal and camshaft seal that are going in . I'm not too sure if this is common but I think the water pump pulley seized up its rusted all around and behind the pulley.

Check the timing belt covers for abrasion by the belt.

The cup side of the washer should face outward of engine.

Rotate the crank back to TDC. You can install the new belt, lower timing cover and balancer to align balancer to TDC. Then install the timing belt on the cam pulley. Once the belt is installed and tensioner released. Rotate crank 2 times CW and recheck cam/crank marks to make sure they are still aligned.

If have time change the oil pump drive shaft seal. This seal can leak over time resulting in a steady drip. You will also need to change the preformed o'ring between the pump body and engine oil pump housing.

I changed the o ring seal that's behind the oil pump pulley housing but I'm having a hard time ring to get the crank sprocket off for the front seal it's rusted on the crankshaft it self . Not sure what to do . It states in a Manuel to wedge to screwdrivers on both sides and pry it off bit I try ed that no luck . Gosh I keep running into problem after problem

The timing belt sprocket is frozen to the crank?

If the crank seal is not leaking, might call it good and not remove the sprocket.

Yes that's correct . I wish I could upload a picture but not sure how to add one.

crankshaft bolt woes
 

Here is a picture

You might be able to use a gear puller. This has two jaws having a thin face that can get behind the gear. See link image 17610 in link:

https://www.google.com/search?q=gear...-IUFXhfR7VU%3D

Be careful with tools as the gear teeth may chip. Before using clean the crank snout of rust then apply PB Blaster to gear and key area.

Thanks a lot Joey you always have a great approach and solutions to problems .

Update . So I was able to remove the crankshaft sprocket . The solution was a whole lot of pb blaster , and a wedged pry bar used very cautiously , and a whole lot of patience. When I finally got it removed the whole inner face that meets with the crankshaft was covered in thick rust . I managed to remove it with very little damage to the sprocket a few very small dings from the bar . I used a bit of fine sandpaper to smooth it out again. Cleaned up the crankshaft itself which also had a thick film of rust. The other issue I came across was the oil pump pulley/sprocket . I swear that thing must have been installed with lock tite And a air wench . I could not get that thing to move . I ended up stripping the 12mm nut, which was not to big of a deal bcuz I have some extras laying around but getting off was the headache. I ended up using one of those socket nut/bolt extractor that you gave to bang on to grab the bolt . I had to use a 24""breaker bar and a crap load of force to get it off. Suprised the heck out of me. I did not think you could out that much stress on a 12mm nut with out breaking it or the bolt when your installing it. If it weren't for all these hidden Suprises I would be all done by now. Last seal that I am going to replace is the main crankshaft seal which seems like it's going to be a little rough too considering it's all brittle . After that I can start bolting on the new water pump , timing belt , and all the other adjoining parts. I have to give a special thanks out to toyomoho for all his help and support and guiding me through a difficult task.

He was big help to me too when I did my timing belt a few months back also!!