No spark
 

Everybody,
My car died on me while approaching a red light. The light turned green & I accelerated & it died. I bring that up because I know Chevy's with an HEI ignition die suddenly in similar fashion & it usually is the module. Is this the same case here?
A complete distributor from Rock Auto is ~$152. I believe this includes distributor, cap, rotor, & module. Can the module be tested at the parts stores? I believe Chevy modules can be.
The details of the car is: '95 Camry, 4 cylinder, 360k miles, timing belt/water pump replaced at 315k. Only work done to the dizzy is cap/rotor.
Also, does this car have a shrader valve to test for presence of fuel pressure? I didn't see one.
The p/n for the dizzy from Rock Auto is 84 74426. The car does have CA Emissions.

Thanks,
Chris

Product Detail

Is the ign coil built into the dist or remote?

The dist has two signal coils, but not the igniter. The igniter is generally not a problem.

There is no valve to test fuel pressure.

For ign problem:
Determine if the dist rotor rotates, indicating the timing belt is still OK.
Then see private message.

The engine does have a separate coil. I pulled off the cap earlier as you suggested, the rotor does NOT spin. I guess my next step is to remove the top few bolts of the timing belt cover & pry it back a little and see if the timing belt is there and spins with the engine or if the dizzy shaft broke. Any other ideas or suggestions? Thanks much for the troubleshooting link!

Odds are the timing belt broke. When cranking over the engine, does it sound like it is spinning faster the normal.

yeah, actually it does...like no resistance or compression....

If the timing belt broken some valves are not closing on the compression stroke. Thus there is less resistance to the start motor rotating the engine.

Buy a highly saturated nitrile belt and change it at 60K US miles.

AutoZone has a kit with a Dayco belt & free shipping on orders over $75 & 20% off if I order by the 27th. I just looked at some you tube videos. It doesn't seem too bad of a job I guess. I will replace the oil pump housing gasket & seal as well. Does this kit seem good or happen to know of a better one? It is p/n wp199k1a

ttp://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/water-pump/dayco-wpk-water-pump/toyota/camry/1995/4-cylinders-s-2-2l-efi-dohc/162699_658244_0/

just ordered the same kit from Rock Auto, but with the seals (WP199K1AS) for $68.79 & only $7.23 shipping. Now got to find the time to do it. 60+hr weeks kinda sucks sometimes...but it will get done...

That's a good price.

If you haven't done so, for the oil pump. Get the preformed o'ring that goes between the oil pump and the housing and drive shaft seal.

At Rock Auto this is VICTOR REINZ Part B32306.

For the WP change, if the coolant tube and WP housing seals are not leaking. You can just replace the pump and gasket between it and the housing.

A few issues to consider before the belt job are:

Keeping the crank from rotating when loosening and tightening the crank bolt.

Removing the harmonic balancer if stuck. Use only a bolt-on puller.

Suggest using a 6-point box wrench on the 3 bolts holding the upper engine mount to the engine to avoid issues of rounding over the hex head possible when using a 12-point.

Before removing crank pulley, rotate to 0 degrees.

Rotate cam pulley to align hole with mark. Then install belt.

Once you have the belt installed, you can install all lower engine parts leaving upper timing belt cover off. This will allow to rotate the crank CW 2-times and recheck crank/cam pulley alignment. It is possible for the cam pulley to move after belt install due to belt slack.

For the oil pump. To remove the pulley nut, you will need something to grip the driven oil pump gear without damaging it or to grip the pulley.

When removing the pump drive and driving gears, take note of the orientation of a mark on their gear faces (both facing same direction). You want to maintain this orientation when installing.

Prior to gear installation in housing, apply oil or a thin layer of grease to the gear faces and circumferences to seal spacing between gears and housing. This is insurance for the pump to prime. It has happened after repair, the pump will not prime and the result is no oil pressure.

thank u very much for the tips! I will prob start on this next weekend....think I need to get the chiltons manual?