Seek Diagram(s) of 2003 Camry catalytic conv. major parts
 

Hello,
2003 Toyota Camry XLE 128,000miles

I got the engine light and code P0420 which relates to catalytic converter department (i've been told). I want to look and study what this looks like. I know there are two major parts that make up whole converter. Front Exhaust Manifold, and, Catalytic Converter.
If anyone has good diagrams, and with labels, that's even better.
I've looked all over internet and only come up with parts stores with photos but no labels or exact descriptions.
Links are fine.

Much appreciated!

What engine 4-cylinder or V6?

The manifold and converter are one part and sold as such.

Thanks for your assistance.
Sorry, 4 cyl., automatic, made in America (or at least most parts are).

The two parts are inclusive of the Catalytic system, but they come in two separate parts. Front Exhaust piece, and the CC pipe that goes under car. That's what mechanic explained.
I would like to try replace front piece first and see if that's the fix. It costs less than other part.
Does this sound correct?

Much appreciated.

The front exhaust "piece" bolts to a pipe the runs under the car having the other converter.

As you state best to replace the front exhaust first.

Thank you for the confirmation.

Would there be a more premium grade part available from an aftermarket company? I know there are special metals inside in OEM (although I don't know if that is for both parts or one of them). Important to get solid partx. And don't mind spending a bit, but not the prices from Toyota dealer. And the dealer only offers warranty of 1 year with unlimited miles. ?!

Thanks.

** important to get solid partS.

Call the local parts dealer of your choice. I prefer NAPA but that is because I get a discount and I have never been disappointed. Call up your preference and see what their warranty is. I bought a CV shaft from NAPA and it had a lifetime warranty on it. I also just changed the water pump and serp belt with NAPA parts and they are working flawlessly.

Would consider Toyota parts the best available but also most costly which is why more people opt for aftermarket.

Not all converters are the same. As you state they contain precious metals. To keep costs down manufacturers use less metal.

Suggest Bosal although no doubt there are other brands, but don't buy the cheapest available. After market converters don't seem to last as long as Toyota parts.

If replacing part yourself shop internet sites like Rockauto.com. If looking on the internet can find 5% or perhaps even 10% off codes to use.

If having a shop do the work most will want to use their own parts for warranty purposes and to make more profit.

Take note the old converter has salvage value beyond scrap steel. Not current on prices but at one time was around $75 due to the precious metals inside.

Very good info again, and worthy point about value of old part, Joey.
I really appreciate it.

Massachusetts

Thank you too to Patonium!

Glad to help. Let us know what route you go and your experience. I hope it is warmer down there than it is here!

I've had the "check engine Light" turned off to buy me time. And I will go for the Car Inspection that is due end of this month! If light comes back on, probably get 30-60 days to fix problem. After all the research, I will buy the front manifold piece made by Bosal (sounds very solid, costs more but less than best OEM price) and purchase at Rockauto.com. They have best price and shipping and I have a 5% discount code. I've reviewed all others and compared to Toyota OEM-- I found one OEM dealer selling it for just a little higher price, but shipping is way more, and Toyota warranty is 1 yr. Bosal/Rockauto provides 5 yrs. The car is a 2003. 5 yrs. will be great for me.
My mechanic has been very helpful and willing to let me buy the part. I will followup, especially if the problem is the manifold or not. I can't know for sure due to both parts on Bank 1, as I understand. Hopefully it works, otherwise I will be dealing with the converter pipe area under car. To follow....

Typically if P0420 it is first converter which is the one you are looking at.

Suggest asking your mechanic about the smog test procedures in your state. Typically the procedure is to connect a computer to the cars ODBII system and check for set trouble codes (turn on the light), pending codes (test failed once but needs to fail again to turn on light) and uncompleted self checks of various system and components.

In doing self checks, if all systems are OK, sooner or later the computer completes most self checks, but not all sometimes due to the manufacturers computer programming. Most states allow a certain number of uncompleted self checks perhaps two.

In resetting the check light the computer will now self check all items which could result in a lot of checks not being complete when the smog test is done. This could cause the car to fail the a smog test.

The test requiring a cars computer to have completed all or most of the self checks to pass.

I'm just seeing this last post. Thank you, Joey. And you have entered a topic that I do not understand but will see that the mechanic is taking care of this.

So, I was able to pass inspection. Light remains off. But while inspecting, tire wearout came up. And realized my oil change people (combination of Toyota dealer and a Monro shop) have neglected to rotate the tires, and this is included in oil changes.! I need to take care of the front tires quickly. Exhaust Manifold will follow.
Interesting and disappointing development...

Given the car passed the test, wait until the light comes one again with same code. Who knows, maybe it will stay off.

I hope that you find the diagrams you needed!