I am thinking about getting this amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+TXi+6006.html
but it's a class a/b and I dont know if my electrical will take it I have a 93 camey...the amp will be running at 4ohmbridged 600Wrms

 

it should be fine. unless you have other equipment running that also requires a lot of amperages. im running a similar amount of wattages (500W rms bridged at 4ohms) in mine and the only thing thats bad is that at night, when the headlights are on and subs are hitting, my lights dim with the beat, kinda like a strobe light.

 

is it bad diming or just a lil diming o and is your amp a class a/b

 

well its dim enough to where you can tell the difference. but would recommend getting a cap or something simlar. and yeah my amp is class a/b... for the time being... 1000.1 Class D soon to come ...

 

Class A/B's run very hot and draw more power than Class D... so you will most likely see some voltage drops...I believe the new Hifonics Titans are now Class D so look into those...

 

X2^^ I know that's why I would like a class D I'm thinking I may get this from a friend for $70 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=14871
but I might just save up and get the http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17788
so if I up grade my sub I can run it at 2ohms for 900Wrms but if I do that than I would need to do a BIG3 so I might get that but I dont know

 

to be honest ive used both of those amps... the first one is not worth it at all... the second... You can get better for your money... Personally i would wait on it and see if you can get your hands on a new d class Titan... what sub are you looking at for this install and what config and specs... I might be able to reccomend a better option.

 

from my experiences, the more wattages is being used the more voltage is required.. i have a similar set-up to my friend but he has 15s and bigger ported box tuned to 34hrz (mine are12s in a ported box tuned to 37hrz) and was running Planet Audio RX1000.1 D and he was running a Stinger cap and his interior lights were still dimming.

 

^^^ And so they should... On top of his draw from the Amp when its hitting underr load, he is also adding the draw of the Cap... A cap is only there so it can sustain hard hits on the systems voltage draws so your amp doesnt experience any power shortages... Basically this adds more strain on your Alternator because now its not jut working to charge your battery but also a smaller more dense battery that is continuously asking for more and more power...

Box size really has no bearing on the draw of a system rather only the draw of the amp to the bat/alt... If you run a class A/B amplifier it always draws more power than a class d.... Mostly because it has switching ability where at low volumes it switches in to A mode and at high it switches to B mode... Very ineficient where as a Class D... Is usually around 80% efficient

 

I have the sub it's a mach 5 audio MJ-18 SVC4ohm ... O would like to keep the ampat about$200 or so