I have been working on my Camry and noticed the rear sway bar was loose. The bushings were worn out.

I ordered 2 for the rear and two for the front from Rock Auto. I figured the fronts were never changed and loose also. I already changed all links a while back.

Installing the rears was not too difficult since there is easier access.

I started doing the drivers side front which are also worn and there are two bolts holding it. One I removed and the second one used a wrench to get at. Unfortunately the nut head rounded out.

I hit with PB Blaster again and put it in the garage until I find something to grab that head and turn it. Pliers, lock pliers are either too large or will not grab tight to get this rusty nut which is hard to turn but half way out.

Going to ask my maintenance guys at work and tell you what I find.

My point in all this is on these old cars is another thing to check like sway bar bushings.

 

Spray blaster on the exposed threads then work bolt back into hole, then screw it out slightly more. Repeat until the bolt comes fully out.

 

Thanks. Will try tonight.

 

I have all the bolts removed except one and will show a comparison of the old compared to new rubber bushing. The old ones were way worn out.


However, I have to drill out one bolt that broke off. I have a special drill bit from work I borrow to handle with the hardened steel with oil lubrication to not destroy the bit, then tap the thread which I have done before. I am drilling from the bottom of frame, had to open a little, since too tight of an area on the top.


Question is what type of bolt is it. I cant see too well on top of bolt. It has two slash marks. Do not want to take a chance on using any bolt on these sway bars. Do they still sell it?




Oh, bought a set of ratcheting wrenches from gear box and work well for these tight spots. Harbor Freight lasted on one bolt and broke the darn bolt head.

 

It is most likely is a flange bolt. This bolt has a flange at the bottom of the head.

The dealer would have a bolt. Bring in an intact one to compare.

Or go to a hardware store. Try to find a Class 10.9. The next lowest strength is 8.8. These bolts may not have a built-in flange. If not also pickup the right size washer. The bolts have different thread pitches, bring another bolt in to compare and get the correct bolt length.

 

I just finished replacing the front bushings on my car.

As I said before the front sway bar has two bushings with two brackets holding it down with a front and back bolt. This bolt screws into the frame where a square nut is tack welded underneath.

Removing the front bolt is tight but the bolts were removed.

The rear ones are very difficult to get to and wound up drilling them out and knocking off the internal welded bolt.

I had to drill a hole underneath. There was one already there but just made it larger.

In the end put it all back together and used a (all 10.9 hardened steel) bolt with washer top and flange bolt on bottom ( rears). It was just hard to fish bolt through bottom.

What would I do different.

1. Use box ratcheting wrenches for a better grip and access in tight spaces.

2. Loosen then tighten to slowly remove bolt as suggested by toyomoho.

3. Use PB Blaster early on.

4. Was going to use mapgas but I am too close to engine and gas lines.

5. Aspirin Ha

I threw out the bushings for a picture I was going to take.. The top was intact but the sides where basically shredded.

 

Great job!