I have a 96 Camry with the 2.2L 5S-FE engine. The idle is very rough and it finally stumbles and dies. It runs smooth above 1000 RPM but it still has no power. It might go 10 mph up a slight incline with the gas pedal pressed to the floor.

I noticed the last time a drove it that the breaks are very hard to press. I can stop and rev the engine in N and the power assist returns for a short while.

I have replaced the following with new parts:

IAC valve
TPS
Distributor and wires
Spark Plugs
PCV valve
Fuel pump and filter

I don't see any obvious vacuum leaks in any of the hoses. If I pull one of the main vacuum lines off at the manifold, the engine idles up. It's really a strange problem and I am stumped.

I would be grateful for other suggestions.

 

Is the check engine light on? Has the timing belt been changed?
Did this start all of a sudden or was gradual?

 

The timing belt has been changed about 2000 miles ago. It did happen suddenly as I was driving home. There is sometimes a check engine light on with DTC P0300 series which are misfire codes.

 

Remove plugs and makes sure all injectors are spraying fuel into their cylinders.

Check the EGR system is not stuck on, or EGR valve stuck open.

Check coolant temp sensor for computer.

 

I think your engine timing is off, like the timing belt jumped a tooth.
But check everything Joey has said to rule those areas out. That guy really knows his stuff.

 

Here is an update:

I pulled the top timing cover off and the belt was loose. It had about an inch of play in the side opposite the tensioner. I rotated the crankshaft until it was lined up with the "0" mark and the cam pulley was about 1/4 inch from it's mark. Then I turned the cam to it's timing mark and reset the belt on the gears. I tightened the tensioner down and the play felt normal (tight).

I then started the engine. It ran for about 5 seconds and died. I went back to the timing belt and it was more loose than it was before!!

I pulled the belt away from the cam pulley and I can "rock" it back and forth about 1/2 inch in both directions. While the belt is rocking, the outside crank belt pulley is not moving. It feels like the crank timing gear is slipping on the crank shaft. Shouldn't the inside crank timing gear and the outside belt pulley be pretty much locked together since they are on the same shaft (and there is a keyway in the crank timing gear)?

Have you ever seen that before?

Oh and I had already checked the things Joey suggested based upon his responses that I read in other threads.

 

Do you have service data for installing the belt correctly? If not the link below has info.

Disregard about marking timing belt and align the crank and cam pulleys prior to installing the belt and installing one cover first, then doing the upper. Do take note of rotating the crank CW prior to releasing idler bearing. Also note the idler is spring loaded.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jo...157_timing.pdf

Who did the belt change?

The crank belt pulley and timing gear pulley should be keyed to crankshaft snout. Same for cam pulley and cam. When the hold down bolt is tightened there should not be any movement between pulley and shaft.

Not sure where you state the pulley movement is. If you think the cam pulley is moving, remove it and inspect for damaged or missing key or keyway's. Remove pulley with keyway facing up to prevent it from falling out.

Ditto for crank pulleys if you think this area is a problem.

 

The movement is in the bottom gear on the crank shaft. If you can imagine pulling the timing belt back and fourth like flossing a tooth, the belt moves a good half inch in both directions. But while the belt and gear are moving the alternator belt pulley is not moving, it is rigid. It feels like the gear is slipping on the crank shaft. I did not think it was possible for the gear to rotate at all on the crank shaft due to the keying.

I will remove the bottom cover and see exactly what is moving.

I will update with what I find.

BTW this engine has about 250k miles on it. But it was running well before this problem so I'm sure it has a few more thousand mile left in it!

 

Please, keep us posted.

 

The woodruff key is sheared on the timing gear. Good call on the timing being off, Pantonium!

Now, I have never replaced a woodruff key before so I am going to need some guidance. First my puller set does not have a bolt small enough to screw into the holes on the gear. While it wiggles and is loose on the shaft, I can't pull it past the good outside key with my hands. I'm thinking I need to use the puller to coax it off, but I don't want to damage the outer key. Or should I replace both anyway? Where do I get the replacement keys?

I'm done for today until I can go get two bolts tomorrow. Thank you both for your help so far.