Hey guys,

2011 LE here. Unsure if this is the best subforum, but we're down into the 30s F here and my engine is barely getting optimally warm by the end of my 11mile commute, based off the (oil?) temp gauge. [The middle is best, right? at what point does the fan kick on?] Looking for a fellow camry's experience with grill blocking since most info is about hybrids. Gonna get some cheap pipe insulation for the job, or i've heard of cardboard too.

Generally speaking, my tires are ~30psi in the cold morning and ~40 in the afternoon (with some driving) My tire max pressure is 50psi, so should I set it to 40 because it gets to 50 when warmer or...? THANKS!

 

I used the pipe insulation and some plastic cable ties on my 2017 RAV4 (not a hybrid). No big changes. I have a ScanGuage, and the temp never goes over 190. Seems to settle in at 186 or 188. It does warm up a little quicker. MPG might have improved, but the temps have swung around so much since I installed the pipe wrap that it's hard to tell.

 

Are you asking about the oil or coolant temp?

If the coolant temp is not making it to the normal in 11 miles, check coolant level and thermostat.

Coolant fans start up at approx 199F or with A/C (if not locked out due to low air temps).

Cardboard can work. Truckers use adjustable shades to block of portions of the radiator.

Why do you want to operate at max tire pressure?

Recommended tire pressure is based on the load on that tire. Max tire pressure is for max rated tire load (as printed on tire sidewall).

Tire pressure is taken when tire is cold.

 

im unsure if the gauge represents coolant or oil temp. it is the left temperature gauge on the 2011 camry. I just want to safely increase thermal efficiency by halting some cold air entering the bay.

what is normal? the middle of the gauge? does a car get to the optimal temperature by 11 miles? first 3 miles are street, then 50mph backroads for the rest. By the time i'm pulling into work, the needle is almost at the middle of the gauge

i want to increase tire pressure for efficiency. my door says 32 psi but i'm at 40 psi in 60-70F [i've checked it in the 30F morning at 35psi and after a drive in 60-70F at 45psi]. Thanks.

 

The gauge is coolant.

Normal gauge position is slightly lower of middle of the gauge. Once the needle gets to normal position, it should not move.

If the needle is at normal position. Then moves down during hwy driving and up with stop and go, there is coolant system problem.

A functioning coolant system should not need blocking off the radiator unless the temps are well below zero.

Slow warm up could be related to the thermostat opening too wide, too soon, or never fully closing when the engine is cold.

The thermostat valve should be closed when the engine is cold to allow faster engine warm up.

A 170F and 180F thermostat is available for the engine. The 170F starts to open at the lower temp then the 180F.

Placing something like cardboard in front of the radiator can result in the engine getting hot faster. This would be a trial and error process.

Tire pressure will increase with the temperature of the air inside the tire. The air temp increases with the length of drive and MPH to a point where it stabilizes.

As to what pressure to use? The MPG difference based on tire pressure becomes smaller as the cars MPH increases. At 80 MPH there is less difference in MPH do to tire pressure then at 40 MPH.

Bringing tire pressure up normal pressure from a low pressure gains much more in MPG, then increasing tire pressure beyond the recommended pressure

My opinion is to set the tire pressure at the recommended setting when tire cold. As the outside air temp various with seasons, the air temp will need to be reset. Always set air pressure tire cold.

Assuming the car is good condition. If you want to maximize MPH the place to start is with your driving. This can effect MPH far more then increasing tire pressure beyond recommended.