The third cylinder is misfiring and I’m in the process of replacing the head gasket. It is my first time and I’m thrilled but reluctant to move forward because I don’t know where to go from here and do not know what to expect. does it look like oil or coolant. I had a coolant test where combustion fumes in the coolant




Any help would be appreciated

 

Year of car?

Any codes?

Is this a rebuilt head?

Did the head bolt threads in the block pull out?

 

I just started dismantling the engine for the first time. I just bought the car with 98k miles original where the previous owner told me about the cylinder 3 misfiring.
I had compression and coolant tests performed, the compression in the third cylinder was 210 and the rest of the cylinders were 160 each..The combustion test turned yellow quickly.
2007 camry
code p0303

 

Do some internet research on this engine model. Some years had issues of the head bolt threads in the block pulling out. Toyota had an extended warranty and repair on this but it may have expired.

The issue is common and as such lots of threads, posts, Youtube video's out there. This site has posts on this issue and one can do a search.

If the issue is the threads the best fix seems to be installing threaded inserts into the bolt. The Time Sert brand seems to be the best. There are kits sold that contain all the tools and inserts needed for the repair.

It's a DIY at home job.

Only certain thread locations pull out not all of them.

A sign of thread failure can be coolant leaking onto the intake manifold insulation causing it to be damp..

 

If the problem is threads, then would I be able to tell during the removal of the bolts or do I have to remove the cylinder head first in order for me to assess?

 

Make a chart of the bolt locations.

Unloosen one bolt at time in the reverse of installation. Feel for differences in bolt removal and for loose bolts. Inspect bolt threads for signs of aluminum from the block. Mark any bolt issues on the chart. You could also torque the bolts again as installed to check for loose ones. Torque to the initial toque spec not the turn bolt say 90 degrees to yield procedure.

Once the head is off inspect the threaded holes in the block and use the chart if suspect problems areas. Can make a fixture to simulate the head thickness and torque up each bolt. Use the old bolts for this job.

Not all bolt threads fail. An internet search would find what areas of the block typically have failed bolt threads.

 

I need help removing the last pulley on the timing chain cover.
HOW TO Remove it

 

Is that the power steering?

You can work backwards to and remove the camshaft pulleys then remove chain. Tie a wire or such around chain to keep it pulled up and out of way.

 

I have put in a few days of work dismantling the car. I have ran into many obstacles but was able to overcome it but to remove a whole lower engine because one of the lower cover bolts was behind it. Also I need to remove a power steering because a pulley is blocking the a bolt. I do not know if I can move forward with the project or would be easier for me to put the parts back on and sell the car as is.
Do big and rich companies do this in purpose?
i honesty do not know if I want to keep going or stop here
does the center where the crank pulley was have to be removed. I made sure no bolts are still attached but very hard to separate from middle down

 

Did you ever find some kind of service manual info. Tough to do this job without it.

Rotate the crank to TDC (reinstall pull for the timing marks) and No 1 cylinder at TDC. The cams have marks on them that line up with marks on the head and chain with this is so.

Remove a cam sprocket then take the chain off. Tie up the chain with wire to keep it from falling down.

See private message.