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Old 08-25-2015, 05:14 PM
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just got a 01' XLE / what do i need to know?

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  #11  
Old 04-11-2015, 04:41 PM
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How did you come to the conclusion both head gaskets were bad?

The head bolts are designed to stretch when torqued. They can be reused but only after inspection.

Ditto on replacing the axles instead of just boots. Do some research on axles, some "rebuilt" axles are not really rebuilt and pretty much junk.
 
  #12  
Old 04-12-2015, 11:06 AM
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update-

got the valve covers off and I'm 90% that is the root of the problem. The the inside of the covers looks amazing. Not a trace of sludge or buildup. it looks like a new engine.

I'm thinking the heads are fine. The valve cover gaskets were hard yet brittle and no longer held in the oil. I'm not even going to take off the intake; All those gaskets look sound and are clean looking.

I'm just now cleaning surfaces and preparing to get ready to install the first cover but I had a question about these half circles on the head; opposite side as the belt.

Along the mating surface they have a pretty rough look and are obviously a separate piece with it's own gasket or at least some type of sealant. What are these and should I instal new ones? and if so if there any trick or special tools I need to know about?

here's a picture http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/...pshzmarpxr.jpg
 
  #13  
Old 04-12-2015, 11:42 AM
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These are called "semi circular plugs". They are not part of the valve cover gasket but individual plugs. They fill the half circle that was machined into the head. Typically there are not replaced unless leaking, are they leaking? The plug is pushed in from the top of the head and can be pulled out by hand the same way.

It a hard rubber plug with a flange at both sides. The plug slides in from above the hole, the flanges keep if from moving sideways and valve cover from move upward.

If not leaking don't mess with them. If leaking either replace (dealer can order them) or try to remove them without damage, clean and reinstall with gasket sealant.

A valve cover gasket set will not have them included.
 
  #14  
Old 04-12-2015, 12:07 PM
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thanks - the gasket was pretty leaky all around so Im not sure how much these piece contributed- these have a pretty rough look so Im not sure if they were leaking; maybe put a thin layer of RTV to pad them up?... there was a couple dabs of RTV or some kind of sealant where the metal meets the plug I picked off. Should I apply some when installing the valve cover to the head? I know to put a bead of black rtv at the corners of the head at the half-round.

and while I got you here... when fitting the new gaskets in the valve covers should I use any adhesive on the lip that goes into the valve cover or just place it in dry? also, I havent tried but is there any thing to know about those circle gaskets that go in around the spark plug access hole or are they as simple as they look?

(normally id look this easy-to-find specific stuff up and not bother you guys but Im in the thick of it and would rather keep my greasy hands on the car and off my computer... thanks again )
 
  #15  
Old 04-12-2015, 12:56 PM
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Clean all surfaces of debris and oil. Wipe clean with a solvent.

Suggest using Permatex black ultra as as it works well and is sold at auto parts and department stores having an auto parts section. Or whatever you have at the moment.

On valve covers then tend to leak, i put this sealant every where. This being inside the lip of the valve cover and on the head surfaces. Extra sealant at the corners, extra above the half rounds. I then coat the gasket with a thin coat of sealant like butter spread on bread. Then when the gasket contacts the other sealant, it will now contact sealant to sealant.

Install the gasket into the valve cover and install cover on to engine. The slowly snug up the valve cover bolts going round and round. Slowly to allow the sealant time to flow out as the parts are being squeezed together. Once you think any sealant that is going to flow out has done so, tighten the bolts to spec.

Complete all of the above within sealant working time life as stated on the container. Then WAIT 24 hours to allow the sealant to cure before adding oil or starting engine.

For the spark plug gaskets. There is a tab the needs to bent up. Once bent up, use a screwdriver and hammer or needle nose pliers to remove old gasket. Install new gasket with same tools then bend down the tab to lock the gasket in place. Apply grease to the gasket lip that will contacting the spark plug tube.
 
  #16  
Old 04-12-2015, 02:54 PM
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so the haynes manual is a bit lax. No order for blot tourque and it calls for 69in lbs but calls the valve cover "nuts" not bolts in the specs section. but in the install section is calls them bolts....

69in seems REALLY loose. no wonder they leak... i just read another article where it says to go up to 12 ft lbs- im confused... also read another that says 49 and one that says 59...

what the heck?
 
  #17  
Old 04-12-2015, 04:23 PM
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oh and what is this? haynes manual says a "vacuum surge tank" - that name brings up nothing online and we couldnt find a replacement at the parts store. I broke a stem off it pulling it out.

rickyralph's Library | Photobucket
 
  #18  
Old 04-12-2015, 05:19 PM
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Bolts, 69 in-lbs. Make several passes until the torque settles to the spec.

This tank then has two hoses, the stem of one being broke off? Could be surge tank for EVAP system. System connects to gas tank to draw off fumes then route to engine.

Toyota part might be 2571920010.

You could try to fix the tank by drilling the now hole in tank the same size as stem, then installing the stem into the hole using epoxy. The tank is under vacuum.
 
  #19  
Old 04-15-2015, 02:26 PM
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did everything by the book and when I fired it up the rear valve cover, corner nearest drivers side, is leaking like a sieve....

I was so freakin thorough - cleaned and cleaned and cleaned; it was like a NASA lab... even had help when putting down the heads to watch for anything out of place or oil drips form inside the head.

This sucks. those new bolts with the "one-use" crush washers
were $4 each!

this is only the fourth time I have done valve cover gaskets so Im not a pro but i have never had any trouble.

I just went blue felpro gasket to metal with black RTV at the seams with the half-round plugs and where the timing belt assembly meets the heads; per the haynes manual.... the front head seems fine. Just checked the torque on the all back head blots I could reach and they are all 69in/lbs...

I still feel 69 is WAY too loose...

Any advice? so tired of this- waiting on the bolts delayed me by two days. I started this Saturday morning...
 
  #20  
Old 04-16-2015, 12:30 PM
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sorry for yeasterdays freakout-

I got the cover off (took 45mins instead of a day) it's nice knowing what you are looking at and not having to stop and take pics and right notes... I'm a chronic over-thinker and have to know everything possible outcome of every possible action when I'm in an unfamiliar spot. The good news is I don't usually mess things up... Usually...

anyways I must have nicked the gasket on a gear tooth. It's a hard job to be smooth at with that spark plug tubes being hard to get by. But that what happened. Sharp teeth. Beware...

http://s62.photobucket.com/user/eric..._5580.jpg.html
 


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