I have a '94 Camry that I can't get the passenger window to roll up.It would roll down a little everytime you pushed the switch but nothing in the way of up.(of course until it was all of the way down and now it will do nothing) The switch in the drivers side master panel had no effect on it whatsoever. I have already pulled a different switch (from a donor car passenger door) but still nothing. I then took the window motor and regulator off of the donor and plugged it into my problem car's harness. It also would roll down but will not come back up. I read an earlier reply to a posting about wire color and reversing polarity to get window back up. Can I run a jumper wire from a power source to the red and green wires (directly to the motor)tobypass the harness in order to get the window back up?

Thank, Bryan

Update: I used my battery charger and a couple of jumper wires (to bypass the harness) and got the window to roll up. I checked for continuity between the motor and 1st plug, 1st plug and switch plug and switch plug through hinge/kick panel with everything checking out. Could it be a problem with the switch in the driver/master panel that is causing the woes with the passenger side only being able to roll down and not back up?

Thanks

 

The wiring to the window motor is a little different then one would expect.

From each individual switch at each window there are 2 wires running to the motor.

Reversing the continuity of these wires will change the motor rotation and window operation.

Each drivers door window switch from the master console has 2 wires running to its specified individual window switch (color is Green/some other color stripe) and Red/some other color stripe). The individual window switches then have 2 wires running to the motor (Green and Red).

By changing the position of a drivers switch the polarity in the wires running to the individual window switches is changed and with this the rotation of the motor.

If both drivers switch and individual window switch are not in use, no power is running to the motor.

The motor wiring is not grounded to the chassis.

When a drivers console window switch is pushed power is sent via the 2 wires through the individual switch and to the motor. Reversing the position of the drivers switch changes the polarity of the voltage in the wires and thus the direction the motor turns.

When the individual window switch is off (not being used) the wires coming from the drivers switch are connected directly to the Green and Red motor wires.

Each individual window switch also has a separate power wire running to it from the drivers master switch console (Blue). This wire is a constant hot 12V positive source. Operation of the individual window switch determines what motor wire (Red or Green) this power goes to. Power goes through the motor and returns through the individual window switch then back to the drivers control switch. The return power returns through 1 of the 2 wires stated above that came from the drivers switch.

When the individual window switches are used, the switch completes both circuit connections. This being to direct power from the Purple wire to the motor and redirect return power to 1 of the 2 wires coming from the drivers door switch. Depending on the position of the individual window switch power flows to the Red or Green motor wire and back via the Green/some other color stripe or Red/some other color stripe wires.

A lot of window and door lock operation problems are caused by the wiring between the drivers door and chassis breaking down due to constant door usage. The result is broken wires. Check this wiring.

The other possibility could be the drivers switch but the individual switch should still work unless the Purple wire is also damaged.

If the individual switch is able to operate the motor up or down then it is getting power form the Purple wire. The problem would be the return wire might be broken.

All wires run between the drivers door and chassis to their various individual window switches.

 

Thanks for the information. I will pull the driver's door panel off this morning and check for continuity between there and driver's kick panel. I will let you know how things went. Once again, Thanks for the help!

Bryan

 

Great!

 

Update: I checkedall of the wires in the harness between the switch plug and the kick panel plug. The only oneI did not get a tone on was the red with blue stripe & blues dots. This just happens to be one of the combinations that goes to the problem window. I tried another switch from the donor but no help. I had to button things up for today (my wife has to drive it to work tomorrow) I guess my next chore will be to pull the harness through the kick panel and out of the door so I can unwrap the bundle to do a replacement on that wire. I tried wiggling all the wires while the tester was still attached but didn't even get a chirp. I just love when electrical things malfunction.

Bryan

 

This is a VERY common problem, thus join the crowd.

 

Being a total noob, I read the details above about how the switches are a little more complicated than one might expect--it made my brain hurt. <grin>

The problem I have is that my passenger front window would only roll DOWN from the passenger side control and wouldn't do anything from the master.

I used a drill battery to jump the window up, which makes me think that I've got the 'wires going through the door have been bent a million times' problem that seems to be common.

I'm not interested in id'ing and fixing the shorted wires, and I am wondering if one were to cut the wires from the master if the pass control will operate the window? Is it possible to bypass the master?

Chreeha

 

The wiring is confusing if one does not have a diagram.

The basics are:

Each passenger window switch as two sources of 12V power. The drivers window only has one source of power.

One is single Purple wire that is always hot. Power to this wire also powers the drivers console. The power splits at the console power input terminals and runs to each passenger switch.

The other is from two wires coming from each drivers console switch and going to the appropriate passengers switch. The passengers switches are not just On/Off types but have special properties.

When a drivers console switch is moved power is sent to the appropriate passengers switch via one of the two wires. It goes through this switches circuits and to the motor

Lets say the motor has Green and Red wires running to it from the passenger switch.

In this example say power want through the switch and via the Red wire to the motor.

Return power from the motor flows back via the Green wire to the passenger switch, through the switch and to the drivers console via the other of the two wires stated above.

Changing the direction of the drivers console switch changes polarity in the two wires. This changed the direction of the motor rotation.

The wiring is a closed loop system having no ground points such as a fuel pump, horn, etc would where one power wire goes to the item and then power returns via the chassis.

When a passengers switch is operated, power flows from the single Purple wire as directed by the switch to the motor (say via the Green wire). Then back to the passengers switch via the Red and to the drivers console via one of the two wires discussed above.

When the pasengers switch is moved in the opposite direction. Power flows from the purple wire but now to the opposite color wire (lets say Red) to the motor. Power returns to the passenger switch via the Green wire and flows to the drivers console via the OPPOSITE wire in the two wires coming from the drivers console.

When the passenger switches are used, one of the two wires coming from the drivers console as used as the power return wire. Which one depends on the position of the passengers switch.

Even when using the individual passenger switches power needs to return via one of the two wires coming from the drivers console. The drivers console needs to be in place and wired for any of the windows to work with the individual switches.