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[2006 Camry] The threads on my PCV valve bolt hole have been stripped.ar

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Old 12-12-2021, 07:00 PM
tacomcnacho's Avatar
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Default [2006 Camry] The threads on my PCV valve bolt hole have been stripped.ar

Its a 2006 with a 4-cylinder engine, automatic transmission, and over 100,000 miles. I purchased a new PCV valve (https://www.autozone.com/emission-c...e/p/az-filters-pcv-valve-pcv1120dl/830787_0_0) )for my girlfriends car to try and solve an oil consumption problem. She purchased it used and I believe the previous owner replaced the original pcv valve with the wrong aftermarket part and stripped the threads in the process. The valve I was replacing was extremely hard to take off and I noticed the new one was not going in neatly. The new pcv valve is undamaged. How do I fix this so that it will be air tight?
 
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Old 12-12-2021, 08:53 PM
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Are the threads really stripped out as in there is zero PCV valve retention by the threads?

Make sure the threads on the parts are the same. Compare thread pattern on old and new part and if the threads are tapered (or not) as in a smaller pipe diameter at the front then back..

The air pressure inside the valve cover is very low thus the joint only need be air tight and strong enough to hold the part with attached hose in place..

A few ideas:

Retap/cleanup the hole threads.which assume would be metric.

Apply Teflon plumbers sealing tape around the threads. Use enough to get the threads to grip each other. Teflon can take up any gaps in the threads plus help seal..
.
Glue the part into the valve cover with epoxy, JBWeld or such.

For a less solid joint use gasket maker material such as Permatex Black.

There are also urethane adhesives that seal but can be also easily broken to remove the part.

Place the adhesive around the threads install part as best you can. For a more easily removable part install valve and apply adhesive material around the base of pipe where the threads meet the cover. If needing to remove the part use something sharp to remove the adhesive first.

Make sure any adhesive or gasket making material cures before starting engine. Heat can greatly help shorten cure time as in a hair dryer. Read up at the internet for curing adhesive and using a hair dryer or other heat sources
 
  #3  
Old 12-13-2021, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by toyomoho
Are the threads really stripped out as in there is zero PCV valve retention by the threads?

Make sure the threads on the parts are the same. Compare thread pattern on old and new part and if the threads are tapered (or not) as in a smaller pipe diameter at the front then back..

The air pressure inside the valve cover is very low thus the joint only need be air tight and strong enough to hold the part with attached hose in place..

A few ideas:

Retap/cleanup the hole threads.which assume would be metric.

Apply Teflon plumbers sealing tape around the threads. Use enough to get the threads to grip each other. Teflon can take up any gaps in the threads plus help seal..
.
Glue the part into the valve cover with epoxy, JBWeld or such.

For a less solid joint use gasket maker material such as Permatex Black.

There are also urethane adhesives that seal but can be also easily broken to remove the part.

Place the adhesive around the threads install part as best you can. For a more easily removable part install valve and apply adhesive material around the base of pipe where the threads meet the cover. If needing to remove the part use something sharp to remove the adhesive first.

Make sure any adhesive or gasket making material cures before starting engine. Heat can greatly help shorten cure time as in a hair dryer. Read up at the internet for curing adhesive and using a hair dryer or other heat sources
Thank you very much for your detailed reply! These are good ideas. I didn’t realize it was a low pressure area so that makes me feel better. I’m thinking the JB weld option to keep from having to worry about it backing out after a few months. How difficult would it be to remove once a strong adhesive like that is cured? I imagine the part will outlast the car but would it still be possible to remove it later on if need be?

Also, how do you recommend cleaning the threads? I was thinking a shop vac up to the hole while I scrape the threads back with a wire brush. Any better ideas?
 
  #4  
Old 12-13-2021, 11:58 AM
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Good points.

A wire brush and vacuum will work for the valve cover. Follow up with a bottle brush, tooth brush, Q-tips, etc plus some kind of solvent to remove any oil on the valve cover threads. You need to remove any oil or other debris to have the adhesive grip. Clean both parts threaded areas.

If you want to be able to easily remove the PCV apply a release agent (also called mold release) to the valve threads only. A release agent keeps the adhesive from bonding to the threads. A liquid/spray wax can serve as a release agent.

The idea is the adhesive will fill the gaps between both thread areas of the parts to secure the valve. The release agent will allow the valve threads to break free when torqued.

There are also materials called form-a-thread and stripped thread repair for repairing stripped threads. Here you would apply the material to the valve cover threads and, after applying a release agent, to the valve threads.

For info on form a thread materials go to the website below then download the Charts & Guides for Part Number LCT-28654. The file has lots of good info.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lct-28654#overview

As recall these thread repair materials will break down at heat above 300F. Here you heat the part to 300F plus to break down the material for easy part release. The directions will have this.

Many places sell adhesives and thread repair materials. Try hardware, industrial supply and auto parts stores.



 
  #5  
Old 12-13-2021, 12:31 PM
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You’ve given me some very good info, I really appreciate it. Will hopefully get it taken care of in the next couple of days.
 
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