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2001 Toyota Camry 4Cyl - Low RPS when Idling

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Old 04-07-2019, 03:31 PM
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Default 2001 Toyota Camry 4Cyl - Low RPS when Idling


Hello there, my name is David. I appreciate anyone who takes the time to read this.

So, I have a 2001 Toyota Camry 4 Cylinder, 170,000 miles. About a month ago I noticed both the Oil and Battery Light came on simultaneously, ( NOT the Check Engine Light, which happens to be on since I purchased the car in February 2018 ), At this point the car died and my first instict was to add Engine Oil. It was low, and so I did. The issue was not fixed. I immediately took it and got an Oil Change after that at Valvoline. One of the technicians there ran my car for codes after the oil change. And although I did have a dirty engine filter I haven't replaced it yet.

The car has continued to idle at 200, sometimes 300 RPMS. It typically doesn't fluctuate when Idling, just stays at about 200. So at this point I had a co worker's tech take a peek at it after work ( it was just a quick peak, he was busy and dont plan on consulting him further ), he discovered that my Air Valve Solenoid had a broken piece and when he held his finger over the fuel line that it was supposed to connect to, it then seemed to sound normal ( as in 500-700rpms ), however I did end up going to Auto Zone and purchased both a Brand new Air Valve Solenoid ( $60 ) as well as a foot of proper sized Fuel Line ( sized up to the old one ), I removed the old one and installed the new one myself as well as connecting the fuel line properly on both ends.

I've been told from a mechanic I know over the phone that it could be a Vacuum Leak? However I never seem to hear a hissing sound. The car drives fine unless I am idling. Also when I first fire the engine, the RPMS are normal, about 500-700 but after a few moments it reverts to its normal 200ish RPMS and if I cut the wheel too hard, the engine dies. Also if I am at a stop light idling, it dies if I accelerate too fast.

I've popped the hood a couple more times to make sure that the Valve and Line were still connected ( assuming I may have not tightened them enough ) and it's still connected properly.

My question is, although I have:

● Added Engine Oil
● Got an extra Oil Change
● Replaced the Air Valve Solenoid

I still have the problem of it idling at 200rpms in which it almost cuts off and dies sometimes. I have also considered a BATTERY issue, however I did let the car sit from Dec 2018 until Feb 2019 and the battery was of course dead, so I had it jumped and took it to Auto Zone to see if a new battery would help because during a previous Oil Change at Walmart in October 2018, they told me I had a low voltage battery.

The manager from Auto Zone who inspected it said my battery was only 2 years old and so he cleaned the Terminals and everything seemed to function fine in February 2019, until March 2019 where I had the two Oil and Battery Light come on ( where it all started at the beginning of this thread ).
 
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