I have purchased a 1994 wrecked (from the rear) camry with only 59000 miles and am going to pull the engine and tranny out and install them in a 1995 camry that I am having engine problems that can't seem to be fixed (at least reasonably). The engines should be identical. Could some of you provide some tips, gotchas, etc to this procedure? Also plan on replacing the following: water pump, thermostat, timing belt and pullys.

What else should I consider? The car I am placing this in has 200,000 miles on it. I need to replace the flex pipe that connects the header with the catalitic converter...as it is leaking in a couple places. Should I replace the whole assembly?

Are there other things I should do while I have all this removed?

Thanks for the help!
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BustyGOLDIE cam

 

Should be close enough.

Compare parts at websites such as Rockauto to determine if the 1994 and 95 are differant, then swap if needed. If a sensor, etc, the computer will be looking for the 1995 part specs.

There was engine block change somewhere in 1995ish and a balancer drive drive gear change sometime around this. If you are swaping the complete engine these should not be a problem.

A few issues:

Make sure the new engine is from a car built to the same emissions standards, California or Federal. The California emission engine has numerious changes including a differant head and computer. The California engine had a second converter attached right off the exhaust manifold.

There may be a sticker on the hood stating what the car was built to.

If the suspension, trans and engine are out suggest checking the following:

Axles and boots, wheel bearings, upper suspension strut mounts, engine mounts when was the timing belt/WP changed on the new engine. Since the new engine is readily exposed might think about changing the cam and crank seals plus oil pump drive shaft seal, idlers distributor O-ring around the housing and rear crankshaft seal.

Since the EGR valve is exposed you could clean the valve and pipe running to it.

The valve stem seals leak as the age. You can change them on the engine or remove the head.

If all this is too much just change the rear crank seal, they seldom fail but you will have the trans off.

If having an automatic trans make sure you install the torque converter onto the trans oil pump so the tang and groove mate. Otherwise the converter will extend out of the bell housing and be driven into the oil pump when the trans is bolted up.

Make sure the converter is primed (full of) trans fluid before installing. If just unbolting and rebolting the trans this should not be a concern.

Unbolt the converter from the flex plate before unbolting the trans. Bolt on the trans then converter to flex plate.

 

Thanks for the help! I checked the Rockauto site and it looks like they are the same. They are both FED emissions standards as well.

Going to replace timing belt (do I need to replace the pulley and gears or just the belt?), water pump, thermostat, rear main seal and any seals that appear to maybe have been leaking. Plugs, cap, rotor, and clean air intake, etc. Really wasn't wanting to do too much but having it out makes so many things much easier to get to.

How do you prime the torque converter? Could you clarify your last 2 sentences please?
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Web Shows

 

NO need to replace the crank or cam pulley.

Use your hand to spin the two idler bearings and check for roughness.

Sometimes Ebay has well priced deals on a complete belt change set that includes seals, water pump, idler bearings, timing belt, etc. Might check Ebay.

As to the torque converter if this is just an engine swap with the same trans you will be OK. Some folks drain out or allow the fluid to drain out of the torque converter. It holds about 4 qts.

If all the fluid drains out the torque converter will not work when reinstalled.

Keep the converter installed on the trans input shaft so the fluid will not drain out and you will be OK.

Forgot about the low miles on the new engine!

If only 59K on the newer engine the water pump and idlers should be OK. The pump should last at least 120K or your next belt change (every 60K). Owners often change it as a precaution at the second belt change but it can do much longer.

Turn the pump by hand and check for bearing roughness or play

As to seal, good idea on the rear crank, the rest can be accessed with engine in car if later needed.

Thus just a timing belt and rear seal might be good enough. As you state check the other seals for leaking.

Unless damaged the cap and rotor should be good for at least 100K along with the plugs.

 

Thanks Joey P!

Engine and transmission showed up yesterday. Look to be in the condition stated by the seller. Installation scheduled for April 4-6. The distributor is not installed and the engine, transmission and the torque converter were seperated.

Distributor on the old engine has new cap and rotor. Will it be advisable to reuse this or replace with newer/rebuilt? Same goes for the starter and alternator? All in working condition currently but at 200,000 miles wear.

I have an exhaust leak (slight) in the Flex Pipe area of the system. I will have to use the manifold from the original engine and was wondering how hard the #1 cat is to get apart? Don't want to replace any of the exhaust that is still good. I was going to purchase a Flex pipe and #2 cat converter assembly off *bay and reuse the rest. Any comments on this?

Thanks for all the suggestions and I will be sure to post the results.
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Alot_squirt_squirt live

 

I would just swap over the dist, starter and alt.

If the alt is the original might replace the brushes. You can purchase brushes and the holder for something like $30. Replacement is very easy, no need to take the alt apart. Or just remove and inspect the brush length you have now.

I suggest this because they wear out, then the alt light comes on but you now only have some much driving time left on the battery.

I am not a fan of buying rebuilt parts such as the above unless I know who rebuilt them. The quality of todays rebuilt parts has gone down hill!

Thus suggesting sticking with what you have and fix that if possible.

Soak all exhaust nuts and bolts with something like PB Blaster to help free them up.

Is the No 2 CAT bad, if not you can purchase just the flex pipe. Some use exhaust pipe clamps others weld on.

See private message sent to you.

Remember to take note of torque converter precautions.

 

Thanks again, I have checked on R*ckauto.com and it appears the starter for the 1994 engine is different than the 95?? Anyone confirm this?

I had the exhaust looked at about 6 months ago and was told the flex pipe was leaking in a couple of places. Nothing about the #2 cat being bad but they were telling me something over $300 for the parts so I assumed they were going to change both the flex pipe and the #2 cat. I guess having another look might be in order. I have never had a check engine light and the exhaust itself is not very loud at all which is why I never did anything further with it. Since I will be taking it all apart figured it was time to fix/replace as necessary. It is all bolt together I think.

Thanks again for the info and the PM


Randy
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How To Roll A Joint

 

The flex pipe is welded on between the pipe coming from the engine and one going to the CAT. A pipe leaking with age is common.

If you know someone with a welding torch a flex pipe can be ordered from autoparts stores and welded into place.

Cost is under $30.