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95 Camry 2.2 head gasket. Help PLEASE?

Old 12-12-2013, 01:05 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
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Default 95 Camry 2.2 head gasket. Help PLEASE?

Hello everyone,

First Camry I have ever owned, to start it's a 1995 Toyota Camry 2.2 LE Auto Trans. I bought this car off a family member. The car itself has 170,000 on it and ran mint when I purchased it. I would say I put about 700 miles on it and then the head gasket went. I had it checked with a Combustion Leak Tester and it tested positive for a bad head gasket. I had a buddy who has been working on cars for alot longer then me help me with the job. We got it all disassembled and that went alright for the most part, didn't run into any trouble.

The bad or I guess the part I am worried about, he has done head gaskets on ford's and stuff and never ran into an issue. We took a sharpie and marked across the bearing caps and onto the cams to make sure they were marked for when we put them back together. Took chalk and marked the timing belt and pulley on the cam so that was marked as well. I am reading online now, after we tore into it and hearing people say you put a bolt in the cam for some reason and this and that. I hope I didn't mess up big time... I dropped the head off at the machine shop to get all cleaned up and shaved.. He said my exhaust valves have leaks so he needs to do them and will do all the valves, intake as well and won't just do the exhaust valves. He said $350.00 without tax for the shave, pressure test, flux test and adjust the valves and do the seals.. does that sound about right or something I need to do?

Anyways back to the main reason I came to this forum, did I screw everything up not putting that bolt in the cam gear? Anyone have tips on putting back together or steps I don't want to miss. I bought a Haynes manual that is coming tomorrow. I tried doing hours of research and videos on youtube.. Want some insight from someone who has done this job. I don't want to install the reman'd head and mess the valves up because I didn't install something right. One last question if anyone knows, is the water pump a pain to do in this once the head is out and you are at the stage I am at?

At tips, knowledge or something I should know would be great! I thank you all so much for the help or insight in advance.

Thanks again!
Old 12-12-2013, 11:50 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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Posts: 11,739

The price quoted is well within the range shops charge.

You can install the bolt in the cam gears before installing the cam onto the head. Place the cam in a soft jaw vice with gears facing you (short end of camshaft extending out of the gears toward you). Have one hole in the face of the front gear oriented up and to the left of the camshaft and the other up and to the right of the camshaft.

Insert a bolt into the hole oriented up and to the right of the cam. Orient a long shaft flat blade screw driver positioned in front this gear, under the camshaft and on top of this bolt head. Then using the camshaft as a fulcrum, apply force to rotate front gear CW and line up the other hole with the threaded hole in the gear behind it. Then install the service bolt and remove the other bolt.

Install both cams as specified in the shop manual which if done correctly will result in the service bolt being oriented at the top of the gear and easily accessible for removal. Remove the bolt before rotating the cam.

Suggest if the timing belt has many miles on it to replace as removing the belt from the head has already accomplished much of the work needed to replace the belt. If doing this job read Haynes manual first in areas of removing the harmonic balancer.

Valve clearance is set with shims. Makes sure when installing the head and needed to remove the valve train to keep track of each shim location and don't mix them up!

Water pump is easy head on or off IF you access to it and it is not covered up by the lower timing belt cover. If it is covered and you going to replace it, the replace the belt as the front of the engine will be completely apart.

If the cams are installed properly they should be oriented correctly. Haynes may use the mark the belt method but once the cams are installed you can rotate the cam timing belt pulley to line the hole in the pulley spoke with the notch on top of the front up cam bearing cap.

Once done, rotate the crank until TDC. You may need to reinstall the lower timing cover to do this the crank key way would also be oriented up.
Old 01-12-2014, 07:44 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: new jersey
Posts: 1

Mine cost me 300
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