i just bought a 1993 camry with 3.0L auto, its been sitting for 3 months because the lady i got it from said it would stall and she didn't want to put any money into it. the battery was dead but when i jumped it, it started right up and ran like a top.but when i put it in gear (R or D) the idle jumps up to about 1200 and drops to 300 rpm and if left in grear for more than a min. it will stall but start right up. i have ruled out the IAC vale because it doesn't do it in P or N, but thats about it. i know "walking idle" is usualy a bad IAC or vacume line, so i didn't know if there is any vacume lines to the trans. or maybe a bad comp. ive never had a toyota so im new to the 10,000 vacume lines under the hood. also, the check eng. lights is not on. could a bad charging system or batt. cause this. thanks for looking and for any advice you can pass on.

 

When shifting into gear the electrical switch on the trans lever signals the computer the trans is in gear. The computer adjusts the engine idle via IAC valve to compensate for the additional load.

Idle should be around 1200 cold, 700-800 warm. When trans placed in gear or AC turned on idle should adjust for the load.

Do a Google search on cleaning the IAC valve (a common issue). If doing so use on a plastic safe cleaner as the valve is plastic.

Or could be the engine coolant sensor for the computer.

 

i just picked up the car tonight and now it doesn't do it in R but still in D and its not just idle, if i give it gas, it revs up, then dies, revs up, then dies, over and over, so when i drive it, it does alot of short burnouts, and pisses off the neighbors, LOL.

 

If the check engine light is on why don't you pull the code? I'dlook fora vacuum leak, remember the EGR sticking open is also a vacuum leak.

 

no, the check eng. light is off, there are no stored codes. i haved talked to people who said it sounds like the MAF sensoris the problem and they say to spay cleaner into it, but there is no little wire or anything to clean, just a door.so will popping the plastic cover off the top and cleaning the contacts inside be worth the trouble or does the MAF set a code if its no good.

 

The MAF circuit has a couple of troublecodes.

The wire may be hidden behind a small plastic tab. It must be exposed constantly to the intake air flow for the system to work. Best not to break any thing off to expose it, try looking from the other side.

Check the wiring. The Black/Orange wire should have battery power when ign switch on. Check the other wires for open or short circuits. I don't have data for actually checking the unit.

Does the engine sound like it is running out of fuel between surging.

 

i put a new batt. in today and is better, but not fixed. idle is smooth at all times now, even in gear, but when i push the gas pedal with it in a forward gear, (no longerin R) is cuts out, the highest RPM i can reach is around 2,000, it sounds like a rev limiter. it drives fine in R so i dont think its a fuel problem,but i could be wrong. everyone says ifit acts up in D, it should do the same in R, but it doesn't, what gives?one more thing, when i put it in gear, the D does not light up, now this might be a burned out bulb, but before i rip apart the dash, does anyone know if this is a sign from the comp. telling me something is wrong. my old honda did that because the trans. comp. self diagnosed a problem, do toyotas do this?

 

Under the hood should be a small plastic electrical terminal box located on the left or right shock tower and labeled Diagnose. Open the lid and look under for key to the terminal locations.

To check for codes turn ign switch on, push in O/D switch to turn ON. Using a section of electical wire jump the TE1 and E1 terminals.

If a code is stored the O/D light will blink out the two-digit code in a series of flashes one number at a time. As in two flashes for 2, pause, then four flashes for 4 = Code 24. If more then one code the next one will be flashed out, if not the series will repeat.

If no codes stored the light will flash 2 times per second.
If only the Drive gear indicator light is out most likely a burned out bulb.

How does the engine run when in 1st threw 3rd gear?

The engine will rev past 2K in Reverse but not in any forward gear?

 

only the D light is out, so i think it is just burned out. the car drives fine in R, and will rev past 2k in R. 1st thru D, no dice. idle is great, but when you push the gas pedal, it runs like crap and will not rev over 2k, sounds like a rev limiter on a street racer.

 

On a car this old I would clean as many ground wire connections I could get to. Look for black wires from engine to body and to the fuse blocks. The fact that a new battery made this better is a sign. If sensors are not getting/giving the full 5 volts then you will get bad signals to engine computer. You also may have a problem with your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). You'll need an OHM meter to check it - but I've had a TPS check ok with ohm meter but when replaced the problem went away. They are expensive so check it first and look for some other reason before you rush out and buy one.