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Hi guys I have had this since new 127k on it now
My Central locking has stopped working
Fuse is ok,
But wham I have opened it up to inspect it is controlled by
RODs not cables.
I cant find a replacement anywhere
Any thoughts or experiance
I am handy doing repairs electrical to
Hi Guys,
Well no reply up to now
Has anyone even SEEN this model on their travellers.
If so what year model was it on ?.
Or any information at all
TOYOTAs PN is 69030- 33090
Hi Joey P.
Thanks for the comments.
I did spend lots of years in NHS electronics and Med eng depts,
So I have been hit with most things
No doors are being activated
The MAIN fuse is ok as it also powers the Windows.
On stripping ther door I was surprised see rods instead of cables as
all the pics on the web seem to be..
One of the Rods is connected basically to the drivers door handle.
This prevents getting locked out,
The other goes down to the controls unit at the locking area of the drivers door,
It id moving correctly
There is a swivel point attached to the inside of the door that gets the angle correct
to let the other rod go down to the control unit.
To get the unit out complete all the inside doer release and the swivel point which is just a plastic unt.
will need to be detached. I decided against this until i could find more info..
We have only one bus an hour so I try to keep Camry on the road.
The doors will lock manually from inside.
Rods are SOP for this car. A rod may fall off resulting in THAT door lock not working. If you have the door panel off confirm all rods are firmly attached. If the wrong one falls off you may not be able to open the door from either side even with the key.
All electric locks are controlled by something called the integration relay. This is a binary circuit design. The unit can fail. Its located behind the drivers side kick panel. Has happened a wire going between the drivers door and chassis breaks due to constant flexing by door operation. This issue is much more common!
Hi Guys.
But I have just started to work on this again in north Uk
Age and cool werger kinda slowed things down.
Well I found the 3 core lead going up to the lock switch area had a broken core.
The cable had near a tight U bend in it..
Not the way it would of been fitted
I am sure the window has been interfering with it for years.
I have repaired the broken core the break was at the U bend.
In fact a repaired all 3 (I was previously in medical electronics) so I know
they are correct).
The doors all lock .
But you can hear the drivers door will pulse at times.
The other 3 stay locked ok
But its a start in the right direction.
I did not realise CL systems were so complicated
It is difficult to locate bits I know that.,
More later
Fingers Xed
Another area is the wiring between the drivers door and chassis to break downs due to flexing with door usage. It breaks down inside the rubber grommet gaping the door jam. The result can be no or intermediate door lock problems.