Hi, I have a 97 Camry LE 2.2 where the left front caliper appears to be sticking - this has been confirmed by my own garage and dealer. However when I ordered a replacement caliper through the dealer, the part received is bigger than the original and does not fit. According to Toyota this is the correct part 47750 06030. What complicates matters is that I am in Ireland and I bought my old reliable Camry in the States. So I can't easily go to a local shop to verify or even get a reman version. Toyota Europe have their parts warehouse in Belgium and this is where the part comes from. The European model uses a different part. My question is has anybody come across anything like this before or is just they shipped the wrong part - of course they maintain it is what is says on the label. I have also verified with Toyota dealer in the US that this is the correct part number. Any ideas would be appreciated. Cheers, Brendan

 

Could be the correct P/N for the part but not the car.

Did you give the ordering dealer your cars VIN number?

Toyota made variations of Camry for the non USA market. For US cars there were Japan and USA built cars but not sure if the calipers were different.

The 4 cylinder lists a 47750-33111 (appears to be for US cars built in Japan) and a 47750-06030.

There is also a 47750-06010, 47750-33030 and 47750-33070 listed.

The Camry with V6 option had larger rotor and calipers.

Confused yet?

It appears Akebono made the calipers. They list calipers with a 43 or 60 mm diameter piston. What diameters are the old part and the new parts.

If have the time might email the dealer below with VIN number and ask what the Toyota P/N is for your car.

https://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/conta...8a8d22484611f9

Or phone. The dealers info is below:

Titus-Will Toyota - Toyota Repair Tacoma Serving Seattle Burien Des Moines Auburn Renton and Lakewood

 

Joey, thanks for reply. Yes I did give them the VIN number and that's the part number that it shows - US manufactured car. Your point on diameters is a good place to go so I'll get that from the old and new - maybe approach it from the bottom up so to speak. Cheers, Brendan

 

oh for crying out loud. get a pal with compressor. remove caliper. remove dust boot, put some compressed air inside, through brake line attachment. go in short bursts and watch that caliper piston come out. remove it completely, clean with brake cleaner, lubricate piston walls and caliper bore with some decent grease, like GM grease with PTFE and replace O-ring. put it back in, replace dust boot. bleed system.

 

Well don't have any mates with a compressor but my local garage obliged - followed the steps suggested and still no improvement. And now the right hand side is showing same symptoms. With 150K on the clock is it unreasonable to assume that both would wear to a similar degree? May have source for reman calipers so process of elimination unless there's another obvious cause we're over looking. Cheers, Brendan

 

keep the garage. seriously, calipers are no rocket science. they are so easy to revamp by entry level handyman, that virtually every repair manual has a page showing how to DIY this.
this brings me to a serious suspicion. problem is not in calipers, but place else. anywhere between master cylinder and caliper. blockage in lines, kink in lines, sticky master cylinder. ABS actuators, there's a lot of things on modern vehicles that can do this.
you see, I have been working on my cars and friends ones since 1990, and I have never seen a sticky caliper. I am sorry, but I simply did not. 150 000 miles is absolutely not that much of mileage to cause dragging BOTH calipers. I do not believe that's the case.
what you can do, is to grab another case of green stuff Irishmen drink, go to same garage, and blow brake lines with compressed air. will require fluid drain, disconnecting lines, and blowing them through with compressed air. unfortunately, it's ok for regular lines. you can not do this on ABS brakes, due to ABS module in the middle of brake system. unless you locate it and disconnect lines from it too.
I had once, in my stpidity, replaced entire front end brake componentry, because of "dragging calipers", just to find out that brake booster I had replaced before, had wrong master cylinder preset, what caused MC to continuosly create backup pressure in the system, causing burnt brake rotors.

 

: 18. What causes brake drag?

A: Brake drag can be caused by a failing master cylinder, incorrect use of Residual Pressure Valves, misaligned calipers, seals in need of replacement or a badly adjusted brake pedal.

Also, please, make sure you caliper slides back and for on guide pins. if it does not - CALIPER WILL DRAG ON ONE SIDE. now, this I can see happening with poorly maintained brakes at 150 000 miles.

 

Try substituting a grease fitting and grease gun for the air fitting and compressor.

 

Guys, appreciate the feedback. Current state of play is that both calipers were stripped down, cleaned, greased, hoses blown etc and it's running fine. So I have her out on test to see if problem repeats which is what we expect after a day or two given history to date. Garage are reluctant to go near master cylinder at this stage - still talking caliper. Keep you posted on progress - a lot of the old black stuff been drunk over this problem at the moment. Cheers, Brendan

 

Great. Please post back with your findings.