I've got a really puzzling situation going on with my 2000 Camry 2.2. It's a low mileage, very well maintained car. I just got it a few weeks ago, and within the past few days, the engine will start to surge while I'm driving. At times the car will stall when I stop, but always starts right up again. When I first start the car, it will idle fine for about 10 minutes, and then cut out. As I said, it will always start right up again. After that, I will hold it at a steady RPM around 3k, and can watch the tach drop down and come back up again. I am fortunate enough to have another Camry that I can swap parts from in order to work on it. I have failed to mention that the CEL NEVER comes on, No Codes...
So far, I have checked and swapped the following parts without solving the problem. Coil packs, wires, Upstream Oxygen sensor, Temp control sensor, MAP sensor, and the entire throttle body. I could really use some help on this one. Only 2 things that I can think of, are the fuel pump, and the crankshaft position sensor....
I'm open to ANY and ALL Ideas on this issue..

 

Try replacing spark plugs.

 

What happened Gregs? Was the problem resolved?
I have two 98 Camry's and both of them began stalling after warmed up and while driving. One surges before it dies the other doesn't. Both start right back up and die as soon as I let off the throttle. No codes...? Very odd

 

Check/clean IAC valve.

Check ECT sensor which sends coolant temp to engine computer.

If both cars started doing it about the same time. Check fuel system for bad gas, clogged tank fuel pump filter or the can filter in engine compartment.

 

Thanks toyomoho! They do have some common fuel from BP in them,non ethanol gas. I have a can of CRC throttle body cleaner to do the cleaning you mentioned on the car that has 166k on it
I have a fuel filter for the other one which has 72k on it. I will check those other thing too. Can I get some gas out of the line that connects to the filter after I disconnect it by bumping the ignition to put in a mason jar and let sit awhile to see if there's any trash or water etc in it?

 

PS Yesterday, I had to drive the 72k Camry to get wifes Rx and it cold idled at about 1k rpm's and dropped to round 700 after the gauge rose to about the eight o'clock and some change position. It begins stalling when it gets almost halfway ( 9:00 position) . It restarted promptly slid it into drive and I gave it a couple hundred rpm's of throttle before taking off normally and it didn't stall again. Anyway, a few min later after I sat idling in a parking lot at the Auto Zone, it died again and I put it in neutral and turned the key and nothing. No click or engine turnover.
Dash trouble lights all on, no dimming with the key just silence. Back and forth and it suddenly engages and she starts. I get home about two miles down the road without any further trouble. Floored it a couple times and she perked right up and flew, as her norm...no spitting sputtering or hesitation. I have since started her and wiggled the key lightly and it seems solid. We never use heavy key rings. I wonder if it's a neutral safety switch, and if it is, could that be related to the stalling, after it has warmed up?
One more thing, it gives a bit of a warning sometimes, unlike the other one before it stalls, the rpm needle bounces slightly. If I am quick I can usually prevent the stall.

 

The engine compartment can filter seldom plugs up. If it does one can expect poor engine performance (not get up and go) due to lack of fuel. The fuel pump has a sock type filter.

The fuel pump only runs if the engine is cranking over or running. This year may still have a diagnostic electrical plug in the engine compartment (small rectangular black plastic unit) mounted to passengers strut tower. If so check if it still has the FP and B+ terminals. Jumping these terminals with ign key on will run pump.

IAC valve controls engine idle. Rev engine and spray cleaner into the rectangle IAC intake port in front of the throttle plate. The cleaner will try to kill the engine thus keep revving. The IAC valve is plastic thus use a cleaner safe for plastics.

Take it this is an auto trans. The trans has a rotary switch mounted on the trans shifter lever arm. Each gear position (P through L) has its own rotary switch position, as such P and N use different switches. Unless a wiring or connection issue one or the other switch should work.

These switches are connected to a starter relay (not the starter solenoid). They prevent power from going from the ign key to the starter relay which then operates the starter solenoid unless in P or N. If the ign key is not at Start position, this circuit should be off line.

You could have a wiring/connector issue.

If not the IAC then there is a ECT sensor that tells computer coolant temp. A bad sensor can cause idle issues. Or can be issues with ign system, ign wires, coils, plugs, bad A/F 02 sensor.

Check battery cables, connection and battery ground point. A problem here can cause all kinds of electrical issues resulting in poor engine performance.

Did both cars start having the same issue around the same time? Bad fuel has happened and not just debris but water or way too much ethanol. Which you stated you don't use but who knows what was put into the gas station tanks.

You can check for ethanol in the fuel as it absorbs added water and this stratifies in a container. The internet has tests on this.

Normal would rule out fuel but two cars having the same issue is strange.

 

I will definitely try all of these things as soon as I can and sure appreciate the tips. I am currently fighting off a bad cold and the weather hasn't been very cooperative but I will get it done. I have to. I'll let you know what happens so that it may help someone else. It is hard on us right now not having reliable transportation. My wife and I are along in years, retired and on fixed modest incomes. I have several VA dr appointments coming up next month all of which are out of town that I have to keep. Anyway, if I have to, I will just bite the bullet and drop it off at the Toyota dealership. They are quite costly there and sometimes it's trial and error which isn't just a pain but can get expensive. I have little doubt that I am telling anyone here about dealerships anything that is new to them. Again thanks.

One more question, if I may ask. do you know if the CRC throttle cleaner safe to use on that? All the vids I have seen recommend it and I haven't seen anything bout plastic, but I think it has acetone in it. What would you use if not this?

 

Can also post at Toyotanation.com in the appropriate forum for more opinions.

 

In regards to cleaning the recessed IAC valve in the throttle bore as advised by several individuals wh have done Youtube vids:
CRC Throttle Body and Intake Cleaner is not to be used on plastics as it is Varsol. And the IAC valve in a 98 Camry is made of plastic I hear. I wonder if CRC Electrical Contact cleaner might be better? It leaves zero residue and doesn't harm plastic.
any thoughts?