'85 camry le intermittent starting
Last year I had to charge a 3 year old battery every month in my '85 camry. WHY the juice drained out of it that often is a mystery to me, but finally, 2 weeks ago, the battery failed to charge. NOTE that I charge it with the setting on trickle for a few hours; I do not jump the car.
IN December the car, with the old battery, started in my driveway. I then drove 15 miles to a store. I came out 30 mins later and the car would not start. THE battery had plenty of power, as I had charged it the day before. THE battery and starter made the usual sound, but the engine would not ignite, so to speak.
My friend picked me up. We ran a few errands. We returned 2 hours later and the car started immediately. WHY?
THE new battery worked fine in my driveway 2 hours ago. THE car started and I drove to a market that was 1.5 miles from my house. I came out 20 mins later and the engine would not start. THE battery sounded fine, though. I walked home and here I am. I will try to get the car in about 2 more hours, when I feel like another good walk; thank goodness that I live in LA.
I noticed 2 weeks ago and today that, even in my driveway, the key has to be turned 1 time for 15 seconds, a 2nd time for 10 seconds, and a 3rd time for 3 or 4 seconds to get the engine to start. IN the old days--from 1985, as I bought the car new, to 6 months ago--I simply turned the key 1 time and the car started within 5 seconds, especially with a new battery. WITH a new battery, the car usually started before I had turned the key all the way on! THAT does not happen now.
I know nothing about cars. I have a hunch that the starter is the problem. COULD the starter be getting hot when I drive the car?
In the 2 weeks that I have had the new battery, I have started the car every 4 days in my driveway. EVERY time I did I needed 3 turns of the key. I then let it idle for 30 seconds, turned it off, and started it again. The car always re-started on the 1st turn. I then went outside 1 hour later and the car started again immediately.
WHAT was different about today? I drove the car! I thought that batteries improved with driving, but not in my case.
Please help. I love the car.
THANKS
IN December the car, with the old battery, started in my driveway. I then drove 15 miles to a store. I came out 30 mins later and the car would not start. THE battery had plenty of power, as I had charged it the day before. THE battery and starter made the usual sound, but the engine would not ignite, so to speak.
My friend picked me up. We ran a few errands. We returned 2 hours later and the car started immediately. WHY?
THE new battery worked fine in my driveway 2 hours ago. THE car started and I drove to a market that was 1.5 miles from my house. I came out 20 mins later and the engine would not start. THE battery sounded fine, though. I walked home and here I am. I will try to get the car in about 2 more hours, when I feel like another good walk; thank goodness that I live in LA.
I noticed 2 weeks ago and today that, even in my driveway, the key has to be turned 1 time for 15 seconds, a 2nd time for 10 seconds, and a 3rd time for 3 or 4 seconds to get the engine to start. IN the old days--from 1985, as I bought the car new, to 6 months ago--I simply turned the key 1 time and the car started within 5 seconds, especially with a new battery. WITH a new battery, the car usually started before I had turned the key all the way on! THAT does not happen now.
I know nothing about cars. I have a hunch that the starter is the problem. COULD the starter be getting hot when I drive the car?
In the 2 weeks that I have had the new battery, I have started the car every 4 days in my driveway. EVERY time I did I needed 3 turns of the key. I then let it idle for 30 seconds, turned it off, and started it again. The car always re-started on the 1st turn. I then went outside 1 hour later and the car started again immediately.
WHAT was different about today? I drove the car! I thought that batteries improved with driving, but not in my case.
Please help. I love the car.
THANKS
Last edited by curlyq; Feb 7, 2025 at 03:54 PM.
You may have two issues.
Does the car have an aftermarket car alarm or door locks or stereo? Does the dome light and trunk light turn off?
Pick up a Volt Ohm Millimeter and check for a drain on the battery when the engine is off. YouTube will have videos on how to do this.
By not start do you mean it turns over but does not start? If so this could be poor wiring connection, failing ignition coil or distributor.
Might start by picking up a Haynes repair manual for the cars year. They are low cost and have ign information.
Does the car have an aftermarket car alarm or door locks or stereo? Does the dome light and trunk light turn off?
Pick up a Volt Ohm Millimeter and check for a drain on the battery when the engine is off. YouTube will have videos on how to do this.
By not start do you mean it turns over but does not start? If so this could be poor wiring connection, failing ignition coil or distributor.
Might start by picking up a Haynes repair manual for the cars year. They are low cost and have ign information.
thanks. yes, I meant that the starter turns as it normally does & battery sounds good but the engine will not kick over or even come close.
i have no stereo that works; the factory stereo stopped playing 12 years ago, so I turned it off and keep it off. i have no car alarm or door lock. the map/dome light is off. the trunk light burnt out years ago and I never replaced the bulb.
on fri night the car would still not start on its own. a friend opened the hood and touched the throttle to give it gas. the car started instantly, stayed started, and I drove home from the market with full power/full speed/no hesitation or stalling.
my friend is convinced that the fuel filter rather than distributor or ignition coil should be replaced. could he be right?
We have no idea where fuel filter is; he thinks that it is under the back seat and requires gas tank removal! i hope that he is wrong.
i have no stereo that works; the factory stereo stopped playing 12 years ago, so I turned it off and keep it off. i have no car alarm or door lock. the map/dome light is off. the trunk light burnt out years ago and I never replaced the bulb.
on fri night the car would still not start on its own. a friend opened the hood and touched the throttle to give it gas. the car started instantly, stayed started, and I drove home from the market with full power/full speed/no hesitation or stalling.
my friend is convinced that the fuel filter rather than distributor or ignition coil should be replaced. could he be right?
We have no idea where fuel filter is; he thinks that it is under the back seat and requires gas tank removal! i hope that he is wrong.
Last edited by curlyq; Feb 9, 2025 at 11:16 AM.
The engine has something called a cold start injector. When the engine is cold the injector injects gas into the intake manifold. The injector is turned on by a coolant temperature switch and on a timer so it will only run so long. This system can fail resulting in starting issues.
Usually a plugged fuel filter results in poor engine performance under say acceleration.
Fuel pump access is under the rear seat via plate covering a hole in the chassis to access the top of the fuel tank. The fuel pump has a screen filter.
There is can shaped filter in the engine compartment.
There may be a small black wiring terminal box in the engine compartment bolted to the strut tower. Inside the box are wiring terminals. If you connect the FP and B+ terminals the fuel pump will run when the ign key is on. Try jumping the terminals then turn on ign key, wait a few seconds and try to start engine.
Usually a plugged fuel filter results in poor engine performance under say acceleration.
Fuel pump access is under the rear seat via plate covering a hole in the chassis to access the top of the fuel tank. The fuel pump has a screen filter.
There is can shaped filter in the engine compartment.
There may be a small black wiring terminal box in the engine compartment bolted to the strut tower. Inside the box are wiring terminals. If you connect the FP and B+ terminals the fuel pump will run when the ign key is on. Try jumping the terminals then turn on ign key, wait a few seconds and try to start engine.
The engine has something called a cold start injector. When the engine is cold the injector injects gas into the intake manifold. The injector is turned on by a coolant temperature switch and on a timer so it will only run so long. This system can fail resulting in starting issues.
Usually a plugged fuel filter results in poor engine performance under say acceleration.
Fuel pump access is under the rear seat via plate covering a hole in the chassis to access the top of the fuel tank. The fuel pump has a screen filter.
There is can shaped filter in the engine compartment.
There may be a small black wiring terminal box in the engine compartment bolted to the strut tower. Inside the box are wiring terminals. If you connect the FP and B+ terminals the fuel pump will run when the ign key is on. Try jumping the terminals then turn on ign key, wait a few seconds and try to start engine.
Usually a plugged fuel filter results in poor engine performance under say acceleration.
Fuel pump access is under the rear seat via plate covering a hole in the chassis to access the top of the fuel tank. The fuel pump has a screen filter.
There is can shaped filter in the engine compartment.
There may be a small black wiring terminal box in the engine compartment bolted to the strut tower. Inside the box are wiring terminals. If you connect the FP and B+ terminals the fuel pump will run when the ign key is on. Try jumping the terminals then turn on ign key, wait a few seconds and try to start engine.
------Thanks. We started with the wiring terminal box. The efi relay switch did not work. WE will have to replace it.
My friend claims that when I turn the key, he does not hear the fuel pump click. He poured starter fluid into the throttle area and the car started, but stopped immediately when the fluid evaporated.
THE fuel pump is easy to see wow that the back seat has been removed. Does my friend pull the pump upward after loosening the screws or does he have to drop the tank and approach from underneath? He said that he cannot imagine lifting the fuel pump up and out without removing the gas tank.
i cannot find the cold start injector available at any of my local auto parts stores. IS it obsolete? what test would I run to determine if it is faulty?
The fuel pump will only run when the engine is running or cranking over to start. It will not run if the ign switch is on unless the terminals stated are jumped.
Look for a cold start injector that looks like something in the photos at the link below:
https://www.google.com/search?q=3SFE...t=gws-wiz-serp
It can be tested. Read the info at the links below.
https://www.google.com/search?q=test...t=gws-wiz-serp
You should be able to bypass the injector coolant temp gauge to turn it on to test.
Ebay and rockauto.com sell used and used injectors. Rockauto calls it a cold start valve. See link below:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...art+valve,6032
Look at the various parts in the link below:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw...441.m570.l1313
Fuel tank needs to come out. Test the pump in car by bypassing relay via jumping the terminals.
You can unloosing the fuel line fitting at the fuel injector rail to test output. Try back up the hex head fitting with wrenches so you don't twist the fuel line.
See private message.
Look for a cold start injector that looks like something in the photos at the link below:
https://www.google.com/search?q=3SFE...t=gws-wiz-serp
It can be tested. Read the info at the links below.
https://www.google.com/search?q=test...t=gws-wiz-serp
You should be able to bypass the injector coolant temp gauge to turn it on to test.
Ebay and rockauto.com sell used and used injectors. Rockauto calls it a cold start valve. See link below:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...art+valve,6032
Look at the various parts in the link below:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw...441.m570.l1313
Fuel tank needs to come out. Test the pump in car by bypassing relay via jumping the terminals.
You can unloosing the fuel line fitting at the fuel injector rail to test output. Try back up the hex head fitting with wrenches so you don't twist the fuel line.
See private message.
I have the final update. Yes, the car was cranking, as the battery was 2 weeks old, but it would not start/turn over. The engine was not getting fuel, but my friend pressed the throttle as I turned the key and the car started a couple of times; however, after Saturday the 7th of Feb, we did not experience that type of luck again. In my driveway the following week the car would not start when the throttle was pressed manually and/or starter fluid was added.
My friend opened the fuse box and learned quickly that the EFI relay switch was dead, but it was original from 1985, so we got our money's worth. WE replaced it, but the car would not start. We were discouraged.
We had 2 days of rain, so we did nothing. My friend brainstormed during our brief respite and on Friday he went right to the...I do not know where he went, but he had me turn the key and he said immediately, "YOU'RE not getting spark.'' HE opened the black fuse box again and removed the 'MAIN Engine switch.' HE was 99% sure that it was dead, too, as it was original, and that it would make the car start.
He drove us to the parts store. We got a new one for $26. HE installed it when we returned. I turned the key about a 1/2 a crank and VROOM! The engine fired up. Compare that to the 4 months of having to turn the key 3 times for 10 seconds apiece to get it started and you will understand how happy I am.
My friend is on a roll and we returned to the auto store to buy a new pcv valve and air filter. THE car hums beautifully, as it should, as it has only 125,300 miles.
THANKS to everyone. PERHAPS somebody else will ha ve a similar problem and he/she will learn that, although the fuel pump DID not make a noise when the KEY was turned and appeared to be dead after only 3.5 years and 1500 miles, the MAIN engine switch comes on when you turn the KEY before the Fuel pump does; I mean that the main engine switch evidently controls the fuel pump, which explains why the fuel pump did not work--at least in my case.
My friend opened the fuse box and learned quickly that the EFI relay switch was dead, but it was original from 1985, so we got our money's worth. WE replaced it, but the car would not start. We were discouraged.
We had 2 days of rain, so we did nothing. My friend brainstormed during our brief respite and on Friday he went right to the...I do not know where he went, but he had me turn the key and he said immediately, "YOU'RE not getting spark.'' HE opened the black fuse box again and removed the 'MAIN Engine switch.' HE was 99% sure that it was dead, too, as it was original, and that it would make the car start.
He drove us to the parts store. We got a new one for $26. HE installed it when we returned. I turned the key about a 1/2 a crank and VROOM! The engine fired up. Compare that to the 4 months of having to turn the key 3 times for 10 seconds apiece to get it started and you will understand how happy I am.
My friend is on a roll and we returned to the auto store to buy a new pcv valve and air filter. THE car hums beautifully, as it should, as it has only 125,300 miles.
THANKS to everyone. PERHAPS somebody else will ha ve a similar problem and he/she will learn that, although the fuel pump DID not make a noise when the KEY was turned and appeared to be dead after only 3.5 years and 1500 miles, the MAIN engine switch comes on when you turn the KEY before the Fuel pump does; I mean that the main engine switch evidently controls the fuel pump, which explains why the fuel pump did not work--at least in my case.


