hello my 92 camry is having problems.it will start fine in the morning or after it has set up awile(after work).sometimes it will go dead when i drive a short distance and start up in a few minutes.other times after driving a short distance it will begin to idle really high 1800 rpm.. if i put it in park it may or may not go dead but if i turn off the engine i have to wait awhile to start it again.today after i got home and it had been running fine on my way home from work i went back to start it about 45 minutes later and it would not stay running unless i kept my foot on the gas.i had to constantly keep hitting the gas to keep it from stopping. this has been going on a couple months. i have had the distrubutor,fuel pump/filter,ignitor,plugs and plug wires replaced. any ideas. thanks

 

Based on your description of the symptoms (with the exception of the 1800 RPM high idle symptom), I think it may be a dirty IAC (idle air control) valve causing these symptoms/conditions.

 

Engine?? Certainly cleaning the IAC won't hurt, but I don't think that is your problem. Did you replace that list of parts trying to fix this? You said you have to wait before you can start it again. Do you mean it won't turn over or it will turn over but just doesn't catch and run? When it dies does it die at speed or at idle or both?

 

yes i replaced those parts trying to fix these problems. it will turn over but wont catch.and it dies at idle. last nite it would start but quickly die. this morning it started fine but once i turned it off i had to apply gas to get it to run and not die. but after driving a few miles i could take my foot off the gas at a stop.

 

Engine?

 

sorry pedro 4cy 2.2

 

Yea like diver1972 said the 1800 rpm in the mix leads me to temp sensor (ECT) if you get that RPM when engine is hot. If the temp sensor is bad the engine may be running rich when hot. But I would do the cheap and easy stuff first. I would clean IAC with spray cleaner (take straw off can) as diver suggested. I would also check the wiring and plug at the IAC for loose and being frayed. I wouldas wellremove and clean the EGR andcheck/testtheengine coolant temp sensor (ECT). If you need help on how to do these let us know, but you should get the on-line manual or buy a Haynes. Do the IAC first then see if it improves. Then check the ECT, then do the EGR, which if it's never been done probably needs to becleaned anyway. If it stalls and you need to start holdthe gas pedal on the floor to see if that helps. If it starts easily then that may show rich mixture.

 

Not sure if i can be of much help but here it goes.

Considering you did the repair you must be somewhat fimilar with cars and repairs. 1st things 1st . Check your work that your repair, then double check it. Thats always a golden rule
Make sure plugs are gapped right distrubutor is at tdc. I guess the simple start is are there any cel codes? Those usually can give you and idea of where the problem lies within. Clean out the iac , i say seafoam it!!
The ect i believe you can check by unplugging it and something to do with the fans not turning off means its bad. I could be wrong.
o2 sesnors been replaced yet? How many miles?
Id be willing to bet its a timing issue

 

I did not mean the fan switch located on the bottom of the rad. The ECT sensor is located on the coolant return to rad manifold on the head.Haynes calls the fan switch a coolant tempswitch but I use fan switch so as not to confuse it with the ECT sensor. Switchesusually have one wire to them as does the fan switch, sensors usually at least two wires, as does the ECT sensor.A switch is either on or off while a sensorgraduates voltage from the ECU and back to it.

 

ok almost 2 months later and no fix. i have taken it twice and no codes were found. although the temperature had dropped recently and it was running better (an occasional low idle). now the temps have reached the mid 60's and 70's again and the high rpms at a stop and in park are starting again![:@]