94 camry window problem
#2
04-08-2013, 12:16 PM
When checking switches, the drivers door switches and individual door switches are on a different circuit.
When you move the switch to up, nothing happens, noise, ?
The window motor is 12V DC having two power wires. The polarity in the wires is changed by the switch to change the motor directional rotation and with this the window up or down movement.
You can remove the switch to access the motors Red and Green power wires. Applying plus 12V DC to the Green and neg 12V to the Red should have the window go up.
Reversing power polarity would have the window move in the opposite direction.
If the window moves in one direction but not the other you need to take the door panel off and take a look.
If the motor makes noise when the switch is in the up position try pulling the window up to help it move. Could be the gear on the motor is stripped.
When you move the switch to up, nothing happens, noise, ?
The window motor is 12V DC having two power wires. The polarity in the wires is changed by the switch to change the motor directional rotation and with this the window up or down movement.
You can remove the switch to access the motors Red and Green power wires. Applying plus 12V DC to the Green and neg 12V to the Red should have the window go up.
Reversing power polarity would have the window move in the opposite direction.
If the window moves in one direction but not the other you need to take the door panel off and take a look.
If the motor makes noise when the switch is in the up position try pulling the window up to help it move. Could be the gear on the motor is stripped.
#5
04-10-2013, 03:32 PM
After further thought one of the wires going from the master switch on the drivers door to the individual door switch could be broken. This the result of the wiring harness between the drivers door and chassis flexing too many time with repeated door use.
If you remove the individual door switch at the problem window there should be 5 wires.
1 wire is colored Blue and will have 12V+ whenever the ign switch is turned to a position that would normally power the windows.
The Green/Black and Red/Black wires come from the driver door switch. Depending on which way the drivers door switch is moved this wires will have either + or - 12V DC when ign switch is on.
Note: The power window wiring has no ground wires. This is done via the drivers door switch wiring noted above.
The solid Green and Red wires go to the motor.
If +12V DC is applied to the Green wire and -12V to the Red wire unless a problem the motor should move the window up. If polarity is reversed the window should go down.
If doing this test make sure you unhook the Red and Green wires from the switch before applying power. If the window now moves up and down the issue is with a broken wire most likely between the drivers door and chassis.
If still a problem the remove the door panel to investigate.
The rear door handle cover needs to be carefully pried out.
The cover is rectangle. On one side of the rectangle is hinge for the handle, on opposite side is nothing.
Insert flat bladed screw driver into cover just ahead of the hinge and pry out the rear upper portion of the cover, then do the same for the rear lower. Once the rear of the cover is out, the cover needs to be pulled toward the back of the car to release the front of the cover from the door panel.
Cover the screw driver blade with tape to protect the door panel from being damaged.
The door panel is held on by 4 plastic removable clips, 2 screws and 3 plastic clips that are built into the door panel.
The 2 screws are located on the arm rest one which may be hidden with a plastic cap.
2 each removable clips are located on the front and rear of the panel on edge of door.
The 3 built-in clips are located along the bottom of the panel, one at each bottom corner of the panel and in-between these two along the bottom.
To remove the panel.
Remove the 4 removable clips.
Remove the 2 screws of the arm rest.
To disengage the 3 lower clips insert a tape covered flat bladed screw driver up between the door and panel and gently attempt to pull the panel out and up.
Once the lower portion of the panel is released the complete panel needs to be moved up to release the top edge near the window.
Before removing the panel check in back for anything still connected.
If you remove the individual door switch at the problem window there should be 5 wires.
1 wire is colored Blue and will have 12V+ whenever the ign switch is turned to a position that would normally power the windows.
The Green/Black and Red/Black wires come from the driver door switch. Depending on which way the drivers door switch is moved this wires will have either + or - 12V DC when ign switch is on.
Note: The power window wiring has no ground wires. This is done via the drivers door switch wiring noted above.
The solid Green and Red wires go to the motor.
If +12V DC is applied to the Green wire and -12V to the Red wire unless a problem the motor should move the window up. If polarity is reversed the window should go down.
If doing this test make sure you unhook the Red and Green wires from the switch before applying power. If the window now moves up and down the issue is with a broken wire most likely between the drivers door and chassis.
If still a problem the remove the door panel to investigate.
The rear door handle cover needs to be carefully pried out.
The cover is rectangle. On one side of the rectangle is hinge for the handle, on opposite side is nothing.
Insert flat bladed screw driver into cover just ahead of the hinge and pry out the rear upper portion of the cover, then do the same for the rear lower. Once the rear of the cover is out, the cover needs to be pulled toward the back of the car to release the front of the cover from the door panel.
Cover the screw driver blade with tape to protect the door panel from being damaged.
The door panel is held on by 4 plastic removable clips, 2 screws and 3 plastic clips that are built into the door panel.
The 2 screws are located on the arm rest one which may be hidden with a plastic cap.
2 each removable clips are located on the front and rear of the panel on edge of door.
The 3 built-in clips are located along the bottom of the panel, one at each bottom corner of the panel and in-between these two along the bottom.
To remove the panel.
Remove the 4 removable clips.
Remove the 2 screws of the arm rest.
To disengage the 3 lower clips insert a tape covered flat bladed screw driver up between the door and panel and gently attempt to pull the panel out and up.
Once the lower portion of the panel is released the complete panel needs to be moved up to release the top edge near the window.
Before removing the panel check in back for anything still connected.
#8
04-11-2013, 07:21 PM
It is not uncommon for a wiring between a door and chassis to break due to repeated door usage and wire flexing. The common location is the drivers door as it is used the most.
As to which wire. Could be 1 or more wires.
The two multi-colored wires that run from the master switch to the individual switch. Green/Black and Red/Black.
Note the color of these wires may change at a junction box between the individual and master switches. For the RH window the colors stay the same. For the LH window the colors change to Green/Yellow and Red/Yellow.
Check the two multicolored wires on side having the problem window side for breaks. Most likely between the drivers door and chassis.
Also check the Blue wire at the individual door switch for + 12V DC power when the ign switch is turned on (windows powered). This wire also runs to the other individual switches, if these switches work OK but there no power at the problem window Blue wire, this wire is broken somewhere between the chassis and door with the problem window.
As to which wire. Could be 1 or more wires.
The two multi-colored wires that run from the master switch to the individual switch. Green/Black and Red/Black.
Note the color of these wires may change at a junction box between the individual and master switches. For the RH window the colors stay the same. For the LH window the colors change to Green/Yellow and Red/Yellow.
Check the two multicolored wires on side having the problem window side for breaks. Most likely between the drivers door and chassis.
Also check the Blue wire at the individual door switch for + 12V DC power when the ign switch is turned on (windows powered). This wire also runs to the other individual switches, if these switches work OK but there no power at the problem window Blue wire, this wire is broken somewhere between the chassis and door with the problem window.
#9
06-07-2013, 04:32 PM
struts
It is not uncommon for a wiring between a door and chassis to break due to repeated door usage and wire flexing. The common location is the drivers door as it is used the most.
As to which wire. Could be 1 or more wires.
The two multi-colored wires that run from the master switch to the individual switch. Green/Black and Red/Black.
Note the color of these wires may change at a junction box between the individual and master switches. For the RH window the colors stay the same. For the LH window the colors change to Green/Yellow and Red/Yellow.
Check the two multicolored wires on side having the problem window side for breaks. Most likely between the drivers door and chassis.
Also check the Blue wire at the individual door switch for + 12V DC power when the ign switch is turned on (windows powered). This wire also runs to the other individual switches, if these switches work OK but there no power at the problem window Blue wire, this wire is broken somewhere between the chassis and door with the problem window.
As to which wire. Could be 1 or more wires.
The two multi-colored wires that run from the master switch to the individual switch. Green/Black and Red/Black.
Note the color of these wires may change at a junction box between the individual and master switches. For the RH window the colors stay the same. For the LH window the colors change to Green/Yellow and Red/Yellow.
Check the two multicolored wires on side having the problem window side for breaks. Most likely between the drivers door and chassis.
Also check the Blue wire at the individual door switch for + 12V DC power when the ign switch is turned on (windows powered). This wire also runs to the other individual switches, if these switches work OK but there no power at the problem window Blue wire, this wire is broken somewhere between the chassis and door with the problem window.
any advice on full strut replacement? also should i replace axle too have 70xxx+ on them?? Thx's
#10
06-07-2013, 07:09 PM
Rockauto lists a number of full replacement struts.
1994 TOYOTA CAMRY Strut / Coil Spring / Mount Assembly
Monroe has a rebate.
Might wait until the axles start making noise, they should go at least 130K Front strut removal does not go too far in getting at the axles.
1994 TOYOTA CAMRY Strut / Coil Spring / Mount Assembly
Monroe has a rebate.
Might wait until the axles start making noise, they should go at least 130K Front strut removal does not go too far in getting at the axles.
