My son towed his car to my house.
95 Camry LE, 2.2 4 cyl.
Turns over, won't start. Died on him in an intersection.
Seems to be a fuel issue - can't hear fuel pump priming system when car turns on.
Went and bought a fuel pump, EFI relay and Circuit Opening Relay - did not install yet - just like to have all parts ready and return what I don't need.
Checked old EFI relay - works. Power to relay and can hear it click.
Checked old Circuit Opening Relay according to Haynes manual - relay is fine.
Pulled fuel pump out, put power to it from by truck battery, works fine.
put everything back together. Car won't start.
Everything seems fine from to EFI relay.
Diagrams are a little confusing from EFI relay to CO (Circuit Opening)relay. Have power at CO relay at the middle lead of the 3 leads on one row. No power at any other leads on that row or the row of two below it.
What am I missing? Could it be the ECM?
When I pull the EFI relay out and jumper two of the leads in the car, I hear a clicking noise (like a relay) coming from somewhere behind the fuel rail. What is that? Nothing? Unrelated?
What the heck is IP3 and IP1 and IJ1 on Haynes wiring diagrams?

Need some help!!

Thanks,
Erik
"Some Days It's Just Not Worth Chewing Through The Restraints..."

 

Fuel pump will not work unless engine running or starter engaged.

Does the engine have ign spark as in timing belt not broken?

If you jump the FP and B+ terminals the pump should run with the ign key on.

The 3-letter items are electrical harness plugs.

 

Hmmm. When the key is turned on, shouldn't the fuel pump turn on for a few seconds and prime the fuel system? That does not happen... Shouldn't it?
Can't seem to locate the 'schrader' valve to see if there is fuel in the system - any hint on where to see it - it does not appear to be in plain sight.

Thanks,
Erik
"Some Days It's Just Not Worth Chewing Through The Restraints..."

 

No, in normal operation the fuel pump will only run when the starter is working or engine running. The fuel system should remain pressurized for a good length of time precluding priming.

The fuel system does not have any valves that can be opened to check pressure. One needs to crack open a fitting. If doing this take note the system can be pressurized and fuel spray out.

 

I jumpered FP and B+ - heard some clicks in the ECU, but could not hear pump kick on.... no clicks the second time I jumped the terminals..

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Erik
"Some Days It's Just Not Worth Chewing Through The Restraints..."

 

Remove lower rear seat then exposed oval cover to access top of fuel tank, then listen for pump.

If terminals are jumped, the only relay in the circuit is EFI relay which powers the pump if jumped or not.

 

Lower seat is out.
Cant hear pump with FP and B+ jumped and key on.
Do I need to turn the engine over?
I think I will put a long screwdriver to the pump housing and put my ear to the other end - may be easier that way.

Does the Circuit Opening Relay get power from the ECM?

Thanks,
Erik
"Some Days It's Just Not Worth Chewing Through The Restraints..."

 

If connections are jumped, only need turn ign switch to ON.

At fuel pump, wires are Blue/Black for power and White/Black for ground.

Blue/Black wire runs from pump to COR relay, then to FP terminal.

Check for +12V at B+ terminal with ign key on. If power then issue could be in wiring from FP terminal to pump.

COR relay has two solenoids.

One receives power from Starter fuse (Black/White) with the other connection is to ground (White/Black).

The other solenoid receives power from EFI relay (Black/Orange). The "ground" wire (Green/Red) runs to FC terminal on ECU. ECU grounds wire to allow pump to run based on signals the engine is running.

 

ok. does not seem to be a fuel problem. I though it was becsue I could not hear the fuel pump. I can now hear the fuel pump run after I try to crank it and stop.

Sooooo, took a plug out, fires, but it is orange, not blue. Ignition coil or distributor?
Took Dist. cap off, rotor turns.

Thanks,
Erik
"Some Days It's Just Not Worth Chewing Through The Restraints..."

 

If jumped, pump should run when ign key to ON, engine cranking or not.

Spark should be able gap 1/2 inch of air. Check for bad ign cables, should be less then 25K ohms.

Take out spark plugs and determine if fuel getting into cylinders.

ECU has a self diagnostic system. Haynes manual should explain this, check for any codes.

Try starting engine when giving some gas pedal.

Check ohm readings of signal coils in distributor (Haynes should info on this). Make sure readings are steady. Meaning, the ohm reading does not start increasing or decreasing when ohm meter connected.

There is also a radio interference condenser connected to ign system (check wiring diagram). Typically mounted on passengers side firewall. Condenser can start to short out, unplug condenser.

When was timing belt last changed? On old belt, although rare, has happened teeth shear off. Ign still has ign spark and rotor turns but timing is now off.

If the car is in the middle of nowhere and needed to drive, might shotgun it. Replace fuel pump, coil and or distributor (if signal coil readings are off), cap, rotor, wire and plugs.

Typically engines don't die from poor spark but then can be impossible to start. Fuel pump could be failing as one also needs fuel pressure.

Might inquire as to how car was running prior to shutting down. As in harder to start engine hot or cold, idle variations, hesitation, etc.

A stuck IAC valve can cause engine to die and a hard or no start condition but should be overcome by using throttle at engine start.