I'm working on the Camry again. This time it cranks but will not start. I started with checking all Underhood Fuses and Relays. I was told it was the fuel pump and I could not hear it running while trying to start. So without researching I changed it out. Still could not hear it. I then looked into the Circuit Opening Relay and after pulling it and reinstalling I have fuel again... or at least can hear it run while cranking.**I can get the engine to run briefly if I crank a few times and then remove the Circuit Opening Relay which essentially runs the engine on any fuel remaining in the cylinders.** This lead me to testing all sensors that have direct influence on fueling in case it is flooding/fouling the plugs.

Still not starting at this point and without a code reader (parts store loans them out but they do not have the correct adaptor).
What I have checked:
*I have spark or at least think I have spark since I can pull the main wire and am getting a spark from it while cranking.
*I'm assuming I have fuel since the pump is running and I am getting fuel out of the return line.
*Coolant Temp Sensor checks out at ~2.78K ohms
*MAP sensor recieving 5.0V
*Checked for +12V at fuel injectors with ignition on.
*IAC Valve reads 22.1 ohms between both outter pins and center pin.
*TPS read somehwere around .89K ohms when closed and 3.xxK ohms open. However this was without applying vacuum to the throttle opener so the results are not under optimal testing condition.

Everything checks out and my next step is to check the Crank Position sensor. From some reading it should be located somewhere below the alternator on the 5S-FE 4cyl. engine. I am also going to pull the plugs and see what they look like.
If there is anything else I should check please let me know. I'm running out of ideas and without the aid of checking for codes(I can throw a lot of parts at it for the price of a tow and a code read at the dealer).

 

The 1996 should be fully ODBII compliant and have the plug shown in the link below:

OBDII - On-Board Diagnostic's System - Does My Car Have OBD-II? The Connector and Communications.

Is there a small black box inside the engine compartment mounted on the drivers or passengers strut tower? If so look inside and determine if there are FP and B+ terminals. If so, jumping these terminals with electrical wire or a paper clip will bypass the fuel relays and force the pump to operate when the ign switch is turned on.

 

Yes, diagnostic terminal above pass. fender in engine compartment. I have the pump running but it still will not start. Hopefully I get it looked at this weekend. It's a 15-20 minute drive to the car and I don't have time to drive back and forth so I can access information. If only there was free wireless outside city limits.

I'm going to check the CPS and see what that tells me. If that's not it then I'm stumped.

 

well, why don't you start simple - pull several plugs out and clean them white hot with butane torch? As if you had them flooded, and it sounds very possible - no matter what you have on plug wire, your spark will not be strong enough to start ignition. KISS.

 

Checked Crank Position Sensor from the ECM plug and it was reading something like 180ohms. Way low for the specs I was given. I have not been able to locate the sensor as of yet. Everywhere I look it tells me it's located to the right of the water pump or bleow the alternator. I've even pulled the AC compressor and saw nothing that resembled a sensor yet any wires running in that area.
I've pulled the upper timing belt cover as well and the belt is extremely loose and everything covered in oil. So that is getting repalced as well. However locating the leak should be priority as well. I only hope it's not the cam seal that is leaking. Most likely where it is from though.

If anyone can take a picture for me of the crank position sensor I would appriciate it. Even the Online Chiltons shows a sensor and I saw nothing in the area it displayed. Could I have an engine that is different somehow?

 

see photos

 

Thanks for the photos. But there is nothing there. I finally got the car home so working will be a lot easier than in a gravel lot. I should have some time to get to it this weekend.

I know the water pump is out since the timing belt area is covered in a black slime and the pulley has a slight wobble to it when pressure is applied. I hope once I get the lower cover removed I'll have better luck locating the sensor. I know it's there somewhere but the only problem is finding it.

Thanks for the help but I think I'm on my own with this one and I'll find it when I'm ready I suppose.

I saw a video of bumping the starter in order to break the crank pulley bolt loose. I do stupid stuff at times but I'm not lucky enough to pull off something like that without breaking something important.

 

some models have the crank sensor and cam sensor built in the distributor , coolant on this car oem its red when its old turns to dark brown , wobble on the pulley means bad front wt pump bearing , get a OEM pump will have the back housing and the hole deal ,if you get a aftermarket pump the housing is not included , when pump bearing goes bad sometimes will damage the housing internally , to get the crank bolt loose when im at home doing this job whit no air tools i will pull the cover for the torque converter bolts and lock the flywheel with a pry bar and crank the main bolt loose

 

That's not what I wanted to hear after buying a CPS online. I really don't want to mess with returning it and now I find out I probably can't even use it. Now I might need a distributor instead? I have not found one thing that even mentions the CPS being located in the distributor in some cases. I believe you that it could be there instead but when I have not been given that as an option by manuals/service guides it kind of pisses me off.

Thanks for the help.

 

PM me your vin # and engine identification code (it's on hood label ) if you want and i can check whit parts dp