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96 v6 wagon wont start when cold.

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  #11  
Old 12-11-2017, 03:28 PM
lenche's Avatar
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More thinking about cam and crank sensors. Once it starts the idle is not rough. The only time I have the sputter is on acceleration.
 
  #12  
Old 12-12-2017, 12:03 PM
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Given your posts suspect the cam sensor. Its a common issue.

Check resistance of items below:

Cam sensor
835-1400 ohm cold = temp to 50F
1060-1645 hot = above 50F

Crank sensor
1630-2740 ohm cold
2060-3225 hot

Ign coil primary circuit
0.54-0.84 ohm cold
0.68-0.98 hot

Use a hair dryer to heat the cam sensor and determine if this makes a difference in operation.

A code can come and go with the problem. If not using a code reader to clear codes. Some codes take a few driving cycles to clear after the problem is fixed.

Have you checked pending codes to determine if the cam code is pending.
 
  #13  
Old 12-19-2017, 09:55 AM
lenche's Avatar
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Originally Posted by toyomoho
Given your posts suspect the cam sensor. Its a common issue.

Check resistance of items below:

Cam sensor
835-1400 ohm cold = temp to 50F
1060-1645 hot = above 50F

Crank sensor
1630-2740 ohm cold
2060-3225 hot

Ign coil primary circuit
0.54-0.84 ohm cold
0.68-0.98 hot

Use a hair dryer to heat the cam sensor and determine if this makes a difference in operation.

A code can come and go with the problem. If not using a code reader to clear codes. Some codes take a few driving cycles to clear after the problem is fixed.

Have you checked pending codes to determine if the cam code is pending.
Sorry to take so long to respond back, but wanted to make sure that all was well before I posted.

Last Tuesday I decided to replace the ECT sensor even though it tested well. It was only a $25 part and it was easy to replace. Since then I haven't had a problem at all.

Here's to hoping it continues to go well. Now, since I've changed it we haven't had any bitterly cold days, but they are coming and I'm hoping it continues.

As to what you have wrote back I have a few questions and answers because I may need to refer to them if things go back to how they were.
I did clear the codes with a code reader. I have driven the car approximately 30 times since the last code came up. The cam sensor was the last thing to come up. It came up 3 times, but I also tried to start my car and failed 3 times that morning when it was cold. I was assuming this was because of a "backfire" of sorts with it not starting correctly. I don't know a ton about cam sensors, so correct me if I'm wrong. Would a cam sensor give a problem all the time and not just when cold? That's my understanding of it, just wanted to see what you thought.

Thanks.
 
  #14  
Old 12-19-2017, 12:56 PM
toyomoho's Avatar
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Posts: 14,780
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Unfortunately, auto repair can be a black science.

The sensors resistance does change with air temp.

A cold or hot sensor could make for starting and operational issues. All depends on how the sensor is failing.

Given the check light and cam sensor code came up 3 times. Plus "backfire" at engine start. The sensor should be investigated.

This being to inspect sensor wiring for open or short connections.

The sensor for debris on the pickup end and if possible the cam pulley having the encoder tooth. It is possible the tooth can be chipped.

The easiest route is to inspect wiring and sensor. If looking OK replace sensor.

If now fixed, the check light will remain off.
 
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