1995 Camry automatic 4. Brakes were getting mushy but I could "pump them up." Changed out master cylinder with rebuilt TWICE. Bled brakes and master cylinder. I can still get some braking at the bottom of the stroke but I figured even if the brake booster is bad, the brakes should work better (or am I wrong?) I figured there should be much more resistance when I apply brakes but they still go to the floor.
Any ideas for me before I take it into the mechanic and find out perhaps that the brake booster is bad or the rebuilt master cylinder is bad?
Thanks!

 

get new brake lines. i would suggest stainless steal lines.

 

Is the brake fluid going down? Did you look around for traces of fluid? Repacing brake lines won't help unless it is a leaking line.

 

Thanks for the feedback! No, it isn't brake lines. I'm not losing any brake fluid. I did notice when bleeding the brakes that the left rear and right front had problems. I had to pump the brakes forever to get anything out of themthat should say something, but what? I saw another thread that noted a problem just like this. The guy had already tried two rebuilt master cylinders but found that on the third try it fixed the problem. Who would believe two bad rebuilds in a row? But I'm beginning to think that might be the problem.

When I have the engine going and push on the brakes it just doesn't take any energy at all to put them right to the floorno resistance at all. Does that mean the booster is working fine and perhaps at least one of the piston sections is bad?

 

It is entirely possible that you got 2 bad rebuilt master cylinders. Where are you getting them from? Maybe you can find a reputable rebuilder or get it right from toyota. This will be more $$ but whats your time worth?

 

Rebuilt cylinders and rebuilt anything for a car (and im just generalizing now), can be faulty immediately, in a few months or outlast oem. You could have indeed gotten 2 bad cylinders in a row. If you went OEM from toyota new, then it should work no problem (if that is indeed your problem). It sounds like it is if you're not loosing fluid.

 

nodrogkam may be correct. You certainly can get a bad rebuild as well as a bad oem. I do have one other thought based on your statement that you had to pump the brake alot to get any fluid at two wheel cylinders.You may still have alarge bubble of air in one or more brake lines. I would get a brake bleeder pump($40) andkeeping the brake resivoir full with clean fluid,bleed all fourwheel cylinders even if you get fluid on the first pump.Pull 8oz or so from each one, maybe a little more in the rear. Brake fluid is pretty cheap and this is justification for a new tool.

 

I'm with "flyerI" on this one. I used to have this 1972 dodge polara station wagon and I replaced just about every brake component on that thing. One of the first things I learned is thatANY air in the system will cause a soft spongy pedal. Brakes work on hydralic pressure, not pneumatic (air). One warning when you're bleeding the brakes....brake fluid eats a lot of paints, so be careful what it gets on. Also, I always used the 2 person bleeding system...one person in the car, pumps the brakes 5 times, holds the pedal down on the 5th pump....2nd person cracks the bleeder open, closes the bleeder then tells the 1st person to pump them again....I would usually do that 5-10 times per wheel.

 

Guys, thanks a bunch for your thoughts. I did have two bad rebuiltsI got them from NAPA. The reason the second one was not pushing fluid through to the right front and left rear is that it had one bad "piston." I don't know what was wrong with the first. I ordered a new one from Rock Auto online. It is much better but I still can't get the pedal up to where it should be. I checked the rear shoes and they will need replacing soonthat may be part of pedal distance. I haven't had a chance to look at the front pads. I've bled the brakes a whole bunch with my assistant (wife) pumping the brakes. If there is an air bubble in there it should have come out by now but I'll give it another shot. I've also bled the master cylinder. Any more ideas? Is there something basic I'm forgetting?

 

I'm not familiar with drum setups, but i know some cars have auto adjusting shoes, while others don't. Maybe you just need to adjust the shoes to make up for that distance.