Hi all,

I have a Toyota Camry 1997 model which I bought in 2008@89000 miles.
Until now it used to run very nice with no noise and super smooth acceleration.
In between, I had to change the serpentine belts about 1.5 yrs ago. Other than
the serpentine belt change, there has been no hiccups in performance and the
car used to run super good. Before I bought it, I made sure that the timing belt
was changed around 60000 miles.

However, about 3 weeks ago, I went for a regular oil change @JiffyLube's (which I
do regularly every 3 months or 3000 miles, whichever is less) and they did a cursory
check on my car and said everything is in good shape. However, after the oil change,
my car is not accelerating properly and the rpm reading easily reaches 3000 for
minor accelerations from (25 to 30)/(30 to 35)/(35 to 40) mph (previously it would
almost never go past 2800/3000 unless driving on a highway). It also makes a very slight
humming or buzzing noise. Earlier, it was totally noiseless (something I was extremely
proud of ).

Since, I am a student and wouldn't want to spend money unless absolutely necessary, I
gave my car to Slaugh's Car Care@SLC, UT for a free diagnostic check (a more involved one would have cost me $50 or more). They did a complete check and said everything
as fine.

However, I still think my car has some problems which is being ignored. This is taking the
peace out of mind. I love my car and would want to drive it as noiselessly and smoothly
as before.

I would greatly appreciate any suggestions/feedbacks.

Thanks for reading
Cheers,
Aks

 

Can you clarify your symptoms?

You state the engine does not rev as it used to. What happens if you accelerate from say 10 MPH to 60 as on a freeway on ramp? Does the car accelerate smoothly and steady, easily reaching 60 MPH. When you get 60 what is the engine RPM?

At any point in accelerating does the engine stop revving, reach a limit say at 3K and go no further?

Are you stating when you give the car gas, the engine revs but the car does not accelerate? As if there is no engine power (like pulling a trailer) or the trans is slipping? Thus the engine needs to rev higher to obtain the same acceleration and speed.

The trans has a button that can change the shift pattern, it this button pressed in? It is typically located on the shift console between seats.

Slaugh's may have just checked for any trouble codes stored in the engines computer. Your problem area or component may not be monitored by the computer. Did this place look under the hood for anything out of place?

If the check engine light comes on, there will be a code stored in the computer.

Do you think there is a connection between the Jiffy visit and the current problems. It is not unheard of for these shops to forget to connect something, disconnect something, etc. If you think there could be a link between the lube shop visit and your current car problems go back to the shop and complain, politely of course.

Exactly what work did Jiffy lube do, oil change, any fluid changes for the trans, air filter change or inspection. It is possible in inspecting and poking around something was set amiss.

As to the noise, can narrow down the location? If the noise is present when the car is stationary, have someone rev the engine wail you stand outside the car and attempt to narrow down the noise area.

If the noise is under the hood, open the hood. With the trans in Park and emergency brake on, have someone give the car some gas? Use a section of rubber hose as a stethoscope to narrow down the location of the noise.

If the noise only occurs when the car moves, does the noise change in volume or any other way with the cars speed?

Sometimes the exhaust system can start buzz, does the noise seem to be under the car?

 

Hi Joey,

Thanks for your detailed mail and sorry for the late reply. It took me some time to figure out the answers to all your questions and hence the delay.

- when I rev up from 10MPH to 60MPH, the cars runs absolutely smooth and steady. the engine rpm is about 3500 @60MPH.

- no nothing like that happens. the engine revs up fine and reaches beyond 3K when required.

- yes, the whole point is that i need to press the pedal harder, give more gas and make the engine rev more to achieve the same acceleration than was required earlier.

- about the button, are you referring to the overdrive OD button. yes, it is always pressed in (same as earlier)

- i don't know whether they looked under the hood but i would guess yes since they told me that everything else like oils and belts are fine.

- no my engine light is not ON yet

- i definitely think that the problems started after my last visit to Jiffy's. However, it might also be coincidental. I think the next best thing to do is to take the car to them and ask for a check-up, politely, as you suggested

- yes, jiffy lube did a regular oil change and topped off liquids for anti-freeze, transmission, engine, etc. wherever required.

- yes, i couldn't do much about the noise though. the one thing i noticed that when i raise my car window and drive at 45/50mph, i can hear a sound which is usually heard in old cars (this wasn't present earlier at all...it used to run absolutely quiet). the sound is something which comes from the front and is nothing particularly alarming...just a high-bass buzzing sound as if the car parts are too old and need some change

- the noise is present when the car is stationary and particularly strong when the car is moving at high speeds. no the noise is not coming from under the car

------

thanks again for your detailed interest. i very much appreciate it. let me know if i need to do some more checks or taking it to Jiffy Lube's is the next best option

thanks again !!
cheers...

 

Is this a 4 cylinder or V6 engine?

3500 RPM at 60 mph (assuming imperial miles not KM) is too high. The RPM should drop below 3000.

The trans has four speeds plus a torque converter lock up. When the converter locks up the RPM typically drops 2-3 RPM.

Try driving with the O/D button out and determine what engine rpm is needed for 60 mph.

With the car stationary try shifting between gears, and moving into neutral. Is there any difference in the noise.

How about when you give the engine some gas.

When engine running, as best you can inspect the exhaust system for noise. Try to narrow down the location of the noise, such as under the car, back of the car, etc.

How is the MPG, has it dropped?

 

Hi Joey,

Here's the result for my next set of experiments.

This is a 4 cylinder engine.

So of late, I am noticing that the rpm is usually around 2500 and not 3500 even @60mph.

With the car stationary if I shift between gears, there's the same noise for D and R and another noise for P and N. But they might not be noise but just standard engine sound.

With some extra gas, there is no additional noise.

The MPG has dropped slightly. Previously I would get 360miles for 13gals but now it is about 300-320miles for 13gals. So roughly 3-4 miles less per gal.

In addition, I observed the following. When the car is cold the starting rpm is about 1500 but when the car heats up the rpm drops to 900. Both of these reading are when the car is stationary. Is this normal or indicative of any problem?

 

2500 RPM is OK for this speed.

In P and N the trans is not engaged, meaning there is no load on the engine. In D and R the trans is engaged and there is a load on the engine. You may see the idle RPM drop slightly when shifting to D or R.

It might be the engine is vibrating. With the parking brake engaged, have someone shift from P or N to D or R while you watch the engine. Determine if it starts to vibrate (worse) when in D or R.

Have you changed the type of fuel you are using. In the winter, some regions require gas stations to use a blend of gas and ethanol. Check the pump for a sign or ask the attendant if the station recently switch to this blend. If so, this will drop MPG by about 10%.

Otherwise start checking the usual issues such as spark plugs.

Make sure the overdrive switch is on (light on dash is off).

It is typically for the engine to rev higher when cold, then after warming up drop to what you are seeing. I think the idle is supposed to be 850 +/- 50 rpm.

There is a coolant temp sensor that tells the computer if the coolant is hot or cold.