Cold Start Problems Again
#1
Cold Start Problems Again
Ok so I recently had problems with a cold start on my 95 camry, now they have returned. The first problem was at a cold start it would idle really rough and low so I cleaned the IAC valve three times and I cleaned out the EGR valve. Everything has been fine, then the other day my radiator blew because my fan motor went out and all that has been replaced, car has been running fine for days now. Now I have the check engine light on and the code was for the EGR, so I cleaned it again two more times, reset the ECU to get rid of the code, now it has returned.
Now when I go to cold start the car it cranks over for a long time before even beginning to start, and it idles rough and low. I have to give it gas to start it, and some more to bump up the idle, then everything is fine. It will start fine all day long, as long as the motor doesnt cool down. Any ideas? Would a bad EGR valve cause this just at a cold start? Or would it be the IAC valve.
Now when I go to cold start the car it cranks over for a long time before even beginning to start, and it idles rough and low. I have to give it gas to start it, and some more to bump up the idle, then everything is fine. It will start fine all day long, as long as the motor doesnt cool down. Any ideas? Would a bad EGR valve cause this just at a cold start? Or would it be the IAC valve.
#2
After like 5 seconds and a few steps on the pedal everything goes to normal. But the new issue is if I dont give it gas, it takes like 6 seconds for the car to start and then I get the IAC valve symptoms of low idle and rough idle till I give it some gas. I went out to the car and started it and pulled the connect off the IAC while it was running, but when it was hot, and you could hear a minor difference in idle. I will try this while it is cold and see if the valve is actually opening or closing. Also when I turn the AC on it idles a little higher, like it is supposed to but not as much as it use to. And all this and the EGR code is coming up. Im frustrated with this thing, but the EGR and the IAC are 100 dollars.
#4
Its a 4 cyl, so it doenst have the cold start injector which is what I thought it was to I looked through the manual to find the 4 cyl doenst have one. I used the method the manual states to use by bridging the diagnostic box at TE1 E1 ,or whatever, and got code 71 from the flashing check engine light. In the manual it states EGR, and the diagnosis is EGR gas temperature too low, and the trouble area is EGR system, EGR sensor, vacuum switching valve for egr circut, or the ECM. I have taken the EGR off and cleaned it out very thoroughly and it works properly. I took the modulator apart and cleaned it out really good and check it per the manual and it was fine as well. I havent checked the VSV. But would that really not make it difficult to start when engine is cold? I go to start it, and I have to crank the motor for 5-6 seconds then it starts, It wants to idle low and rough and then I bump the gas and thee rough idle goes away right away and then all is fine the rest of the day as long as it doesn't get cold. This is getting frustrating
#5
I dont even think the 4 cyl has a VCV on it, I am looking at the manual now, never mind it is located on the intake manifold. Is it possible that the coolant temperature sensor is bad because the radiator blew when the coolant was too hot due to the cooling fan going out? I am reading the manual and it says that if this sensor is bad the fuel injection system can become affected. One manual I looked at said it could cause cold start problems. We will see because I went and bought one since I had a 20 credit at auto zone, I will go start it later and see what happens.
Last edited by ksack001; 05-10-2010 at 05:05 PM.
#6
It wasnt the coolant temperature sensor. I have no idea where to go from here. Like I said once the engine is cold it cranks for 5 seconds before it turns over, then it idles low and rough till I give it gas. I was having problems with the IAC valve before, but cleaned it and seemed to work and all problems went away till now. Then only thing I can think of is that when my rad blew because the fan stopped working it made something go bad, or the problem I had before has just returned. I have never had problems with cars, I can usually figure it out, but now I am at a loss.
#7
An open EGR valve can cause rough idle. You should be able to disengage the EGR valve (keep it closed) by removing the vacuum hose coming from the VSV.
The code means the EGR system is not working correctly and as a result the exhaust gas temp is too cold. The VSV controls on/off operation of the EGR valve. It can fail. Ohm resistance of the solenoid should be 33-39 cold. You can operate the valve by applying 12V DC.
Sometimes the steel tube going to the EGR plugs up.
The EGR temp gauge can also be checked for proper but requires removing it.
Once the engine starts (cold) and runs OK. What happens if you shut it off immediately after it starts to run OK and attempt to restart?
There is a cold start signal sent to the computer from the starter circuit when the engine is cranking. There appears to be a fuse inside the No 1 relay box, but if bad this should throw a code.
The IAC valve can be removed and operated via 12V.
When the radiator blew, unless coolant was sprayed everywhere and some how got into the wiring (barring a blown head gasket) this should not effect any sensors.
The code means the EGR system is not working correctly and as a result the exhaust gas temp is too cold. The VSV controls on/off operation of the EGR valve. It can fail. Ohm resistance of the solenoid should be 33-39 cold. You can operate the valve by applying 12V DC.
Sometimes the steel tube going to the EGR plugs up.
The EGR temp gauge can also be checked for proper but requires removing it.
Once the engine starts (cold) and runs OK. What happens if you shut it off immediately after it starts to run OK and attempt to restart?
There is a cold start signal sent to the computer from the starter circuit when the engine is cranking. There appears to be a fuse inside the No 1 relay box, but if bad this should throw a code.
The IAC valve can be removed and operated via 12V.
When the radiator blew, unless coolant was sprayed everywhere and some how got into the wiring (barring a blown head gasket) this should not effect any sensors.
#8
Cold Starting Problem
Ok so I recently had problems with a cold start on my 95 camry, now they have returned. The first problem was at a cold start it would idle really rough and low so I cleaned the IAC valve three times and I cleaned out the EGR valve. Everything has been fine, then the other day my radiator blew because my fan motor went out and all that has been replaced, car has been running fine for days now. Now I have the check engine light on and the code was for the EGR, so I cleaned it again two more times, reset the ECU to get rid of the code, now it has returned.
Now when I go to cold start the car it cranks over for a long time before even beginning to start, and it idles rough and low. I have to give it gas to start it, and some more to bump up the idle, then everything is fine. It will start fine all day long, as long as the motor doesnt cool down. Any ideas? Would a bad EGR valve cause this just at a cold start? Or would it be the IAC valve.
Now when I go to cold start the car it cranks over for a long time before even beginning to start, and it idles rough and low. I have to give it gas to start it, and some more to bump up the idle, then everything is fine. It will start fine all day long, as long as the motor doesnt cool down. Any ideas? Would a bad EGR valve cause this just at a cold start? Or would it be the IAC valve.
#9
Cold Starting Problem
Ok so I recently had problems with a cold start on my 95 camry, now they have returned. The first problem was at a cold start it would idle really rough and low so I cleaned the IAC valve three times and I cleaned out the EGR valve. Everything has been fine, then the other day my radiator blew because my fan motor went out and all that has been replaced, car has been running fine for days now. Now I have the check engine light on and the code was for the EGR, so I cleaned it again two more times, reset the ECU to get rid of the code, now it has returned.
Now when I go to cold start the car it cranks over for a long time before even beginning to start, and it idles rough and low. I have to give it gas to start it, and some more to bump up the idle, then everything is fine. It will start fine all day long, as long as the motor doesnt cool down. Any ideas? Would a bad EGR valve cause this just at a cold start? Or would it be the IAC valve.
Now when I go to cold start the car it cranks over for a long time before even beginning to start, and it idles rough and low. I have to give it gas to start it, and some more to bump up the idle, then everything is fine. It will start fine all day long, as long as the motor doesnt cool down. Any ideas? Would a bad EGR valve cause this just at a cold start? Or would it be the IAC valve.