The impact wrench is too small. The punch too light weight. If the punch had not bent the bolts would have. Have never had much luck with any penetrates.

Solutions:

Get an industrial impact wrench as used for removing large truck lug nuts and crank up the PSI.

Get a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and drive size adapter for 3/4 to 1/2 inch (might get two of these). If you don't have one, pick up a heavy duty 1/2 inch drive 6 point socket. If using a 12 point socket your risk rounding over the bolt flats. The bolt size is such an English socket will work. Harbor Freight sells a very reasonable cost 3/4 drive bar and drive adapter.

As stated in a previous post, fabricate from a section of strong wood or steel something that will bolt to the face of the balancer which is long enough to engage the floor when the crank rotates.

Place something under the extension to support it as you reef on the bar with a long cheater pipe. Have had to use 6 foot pipes on crank bolts and still needed to apply a good deal of force. On some occasions shearing off the 1/2 drive section of the adapter (that's why the spares). This all after all other attempts failed.

Once the bolt is out, inspect for rust, head and thread damage. Then apply a small amount of anti-seize compound or oil to the threads and under the head and washer. Then torque the bolt to spec minus 25% to compensate for the lubricant.

The lube increases the clamp up force thus you need to lower the torque to get the same amount as when using a dry fastener.

 

Thanks Joey for all informative tips. And all others who gave some knowledge . I am going to have another shot at this afternoon after work . I will post back with progress

 

So I was finally able to get the crankshaft bolt off I ended up using some pb blaster spray to help with breaking it free plus the force of the engine itself (the turning over method )to get it free. I had to prop a long breaker bar against two 50 pound weights and a floor jack. On both sides of the weight. Kind of a funky idea but it worked like a charm . Now I'm trying to get the balancer pulley off and having just as hard of time as I did with the crankbolt. I picked up a wheel pulling kit at harbor fright ( cheap tools) set it in place I only got the balancer half way off and one of the crappy screws it comes with keeps stripping inside of one.of.the holes on the balancer. I tryed to doctor up the screw by grinding the part that stripped and try it again but it just won't hold because of the pressure so I'm thinking 1. I either need a stronger set of screws or 2. Maybe resort to a different style puller maybe the type that looks like it has two jaws . Or get a quality wheel puller instead of Har or freight crap. Any ideas

 

The puller tool is OK (I have one) but the bolts are junk, get better bolts. I use ones taken off old cars. There are outlets that sell quality bolts or try hardware/auto parts stores.

Remove the bolts and use a tap to clean out the holes in the balancer. Don't use a Harbor Freight tap but a decent one from a hardware or auto parts store, etc.

Don't use a jaw type puller. The balancer is two piece. Pulling on the outer ring can pull it off the lower ring.

When using any puller make sure to protect the crank face from damage form the puller screw.

Some auto parts store loan out tools, call around.

 

Thank you toyomoho for your support .

 

So I finally was able to remove the harmonic balancer pulley I had to purchase a craftsmen pulley kit and a set of bolts that fit the diameter and depth to fit through the pulley. Once I got it off I clearly seen why it's was so difficult to remove the crankshaft sprocket it's all rusted and the end of the crankshaft was just as bad. I'm going to have to spend some time getting that rust off. One real odd thing I noticed when I pulled the timing covers off was there was a whole lot of what looked like black fiber material shavings I mean the stuff was all over everything plus mixed with oil. After further inspection I figured it was half of the timing belt I'm guessing since the belt was so loose it rubbed up against the motor case and shaved n ground off half the belt so now the belt is only half the width of its original size. I was also concerned about the washer that sits right in front if the crankshaft sprocket I think it may have been installed improperly because the cupped side was facing toward me . I'm thinking that may have contributed to the belt getting destroyed too. I'm a little worried because when I was pulling off the harmonic balancer the crankshaft turned a bit so I'm not sure if it's still at tdc. I don't want to put it all back together and it runs like crap because it's off by a tooth or so.

 

I was also wondering if there are any other really important seals.i should change since I have it all torn apart. So far I have a new crankshaft seal and camshaft seal that are going in . I'm not too sure if this is common but I think the water pump pulley seized up its rusted all around and behind the pulley.

 

Check the timing belt covers for abrasion by the belt.

The cup side of the washer should face outward of engine.

Rotate the crank back to TDC. You can install the new belt, lower timing cover and balancer to align balancer to TDC. Then install the timing belt on the cam pulley. Once the belt is installed and tensioner released. Rotate crank 2 times CW and recheck cam/crank marks to make sure they are still aligned.

If have time change the oil pump drive shaft seal. This seal can leak over time resulting in a steady drip. You will also need to change the preformed o'ring between the pump body and engine oil pump housing.

 

I changed the o ring seal that's behind the oil pump pulley housing but I'm having a hard time ring to get the crank sprocket off for the front seal it's rusted on the crankshaft it self . Not sure what to do . It states in a Manuel to wedge to screwdrivers on both sides and pry it off bit I try ed that no luck . Gosh I keep running into problem after problem

 

The timing belt sprocket is frozen to the crank?

If the crank seal is not leaking, might call it good and not remove the sprocket.