95 Jap 2.2l auto with 196000 miles. Have owned since 96 and if it needed it it has gotten it. About 3 months ago the engine began to act up when cold and the power steering would not work until engine was revved up several times or allowed to warm up for several minutes. The colder the temperature the worse the engine vibration became. It seemed at first that it was a cold temp weak battery problem but after new battery did not fix, replaced power steering pump and still have same cold engine vibration. Engine does have a slight vibration while running but only has this very rough vibration first start of the day.After warm up runs acceptable. Took to service tech and the cold idle motor? was replaced and cap/rotor & plugs replaced as well. No help. All engine mounts checked and replaced. You guessed it, no help. Tech says probably more trouble than worth to continue troubleshooting. Engine has never been opened. Timing belt has been replaced twice and the last time was 30,000 miles ago. Most engine seals have been replaced and it does still leak oil but not very much. Has been run with synthetic for all its life. One other note....the transmission developed a slip a couple of years ago when shifting from reverse to drive (more of a pause) the first drive of the day but with some transmission medic this problem has not recurred. Any suggestions? TIA
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Iolite Operating Manual

 

What is the idle RPM when engine first cold started and after the engine has warmed up?

What happens to the idle RPM when you shift into gear, turn the steering wheel or turn on the A/C?

Can you define what slight vibration while running is? All 1995 4-cylinders shake a little at idle, is this what you are writing about or is this an engine miss. The lower the idle speed the more the engine will shake. Once the idle in increased above 1000 RPM the engine should run smooth.

Can you define the power steering not working? You turn the steering wheel and it does not move, the wheel kicks back?

Where the engine mounts checked or replaced or both?

What color is the trans fluid? You want fluid that is red or reddish not black.

Was the Idle Air Control valve (IAC) replaced?

 

The engine RPM before the Cold Idle Motor was replaced was about 700rpm. After warming up it was the same. When you put the car in drive or reverse, turned the wheel, put AC on, the rpm would drop initially under the increased loading but return to the original idle speed or just slightly lower. After replacing the Cold Idle it now idles at about 1100rpm when cold.

The engine has a slight vibration all the time. I would call this normal for an engine that has 196000 miles on it. It is at all rpms warm or cold. When you first start the car if you do not apply any throttle the car shakes violently like it is only firing on 2 cylinders and would probably quit running if the throttle was not immediately applied. Cap/rotor and plugs have been replaced. At one point the car would not start and plugs had to be cleaned. When the temperature outside really started to get in the 30s and lower and/or the longer the car sat without running the symptoms would get worse. After car warms p it is almost unnoticeable.

The Power steering works now that the pump has been replaced. When it was not working it was as ifdriving an older car that did not have power steering ie: wheel very dificult to move.

Engine mounts replaced. Haven't looked at the tranny fluid in a while. Not sure last time it was changed. Also, the sevrvice tech told me they replaced the Cold Idle Motor. Not sure what they meant. I will have to contact to find out.

Thanks for the reponse!!
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nice **** Webcams

 

1100 rpm cold is normal.

Cold idle motor must be the IAC valve.

The computer increases fuel injector duration when the coolant is cold. If engine runs OK when hot the Engine Control Temperature (ECT) sensor may have a problem.

Follow the upper radiator hose to the cylinder head coolant intake manifold. There are several sensors, the ECT as 2-wires going to it.

 

Thank you for the response I haven't been available due to the ICE storms here in KY. I finally went yesterday and started the car for the first time in a week.

Idle initially was only about 800rpm even after revving up the engine. The engine did not run as rough as it had but still anything but normal. The power steering still felt as if it was not quite all there. This really has me puzzled as the pump has been replaced and has worked fine since the replacement. Car has not been used much since all this work has been done.

Does any of this change your line of thinking?

Thanks again
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LIVE SEX

 

Have you checked the PS fluid level. Try turning the wheel lock to lock as this helps bleed any air out. Make sure the drive belt is tight.

If the car runs good enough might be best to wait until the temps rise high enough for comfortable working.

You can check the ECT sensor with an ohm meter. At 0F the reading should be around 8K ohm, 20F about 2K, 40F 1K.

This sensor has 2 wires, location on the cylinder head coolant exit manifold.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I replaced the ECT no help. Power steering fluid is full.

Update on conditions: After doing the last oil change (always synthetic) a week ago, the engine starts much easier when cold and now idles at 1600 rpm until warm! Power steering works fine (pump was replaced). The car (not just the engine) seems to vibrate or shake at different rpms especially when loaded up. Going up hill or hard accelleration/decelleration but when you let up on the throttle and coast lazely it smooths out. Very low rpm 650-750 shakes, between 2600-3000 shakes, 3700-4000 shakes. 2800 rpm seems worse.

I read in another post here that someones exhaust was causing a similar problem. My cat converter flex pipe has been leaking a while and wonder if that is possible here.

All engine mounts have been replaced and I just had the transmission fluid flushed again as well.

It does leak a little oil too. Most of the easier to get to seals have been replaced. Could worn crank bearings cause this too?

Thanks again to everyone.
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VAPORIZER VOLCANO

 

a very common cause of these symptoms is a deteriorated intake manifold gasket. over time the gasket becomes brittle and will start to leak when cold. after warming up the gasket will expand enough to create a proper seal. best way to check this is to spray carb cleaner where the intake meets the cylinder head while the engine is running. do this while the engine is cold and don't spray too much, 2-3 seconds is usually enough and more than that could cause unwanted flames. if the idle speed makes a notable change then you have found your problem.