I have a 1994 Camry 2.2L 4 Cylinder in which I need to replace the radiator due to a overheating problem, but the Repair Manual specifies different methods for removing and replacing the radiator.

Some of the engine models listed:

1C-LTC and 2CL-TC Engines

2S-ELC, 3S-FE, 5S-FE and 2VZ-FE Engines

1MZ-FE and 3VZ-FE Engines


The water temp gauge needle I noticed was in the RED, so I added some coolant, and it dropped slightly, but continued to stay near the top and in the RED. At this time I did not notice any leaks, just overheating. Today when I drove it and stopped, I noticed smoke coming out from under the hood, and there was a stream of coolant shooting out near the top of the radiator, onto a piece of hot metal on the engine ( I don't know what the part is)...this is what was causing the smoke or steam.

Now, the radiator is leaking so it needs to be replaced. But if it was overheating and there was no leaking, what else could it be? Thermostat? And could the actual overheating cause the leak?

 

Taking out the rad is pretty much self-explanatory no matter the engine model.
Check here if you need. http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/P...ct/Engine.html

 

For your description the radiator may have a leak. Check the upper radiator tank for cracks, it is made of plastic and prone to cracking as it ages. If the radiator is spraying out water it has a leak and needs replacing.

Make sure it is not just the radiator cap.

If a 4 cylinder engine you have a 5S-FE.

While you are changing the radiator also change the thermostat. Very easy to do when the coolant is drained out. Be sure to get any gaskets for the thermostat housing.

Excess water leakage can cause overheating, if you only need to drive short distances such as to the auto parts store leave the radiator cap on the first locking posistion, this being not totally closed but still locked onto the radiator housing. This will prevent the system from presurizing and thus result in a large leak the large leak.

Carry a few gallons of water with you in case you need to refill.

Once you get the new radiator drain and flush the coolant system, the refill with coolant and distilled water.

 

Yes, the radiator is def. leaking. It shoots out near the top, maybe an inch from the top of the radiator. It is not a spray, it is an actual stream about the size of a stream of ****.
I will def. change the therostat if I am changing the radiator.
Someone told me to find out if the water pump is bad, but I do not know how to determine that.

 

Change the radiator and T-stat first, then if you still have cooling issues look into the water pump.

If a crack in the plastic top, the area you describe would be a typical location for it.

 

Ok, I replaced the radiator and the thermostat, but it is still overheating. I let the car run for about 5 minutes or so and when I came back out to check, the temp needle was about 2/3 of the way up, so I shut it off to prevent any further damage. What else could the problem be? Is there a way to tell if the water pump is doing what it is supposed to?


I noticed a small leak from the hose that goes to the thermostat housing, so I am waiting for the engine to cool down before tightening it.

 

Did you flush the engine cooling system with water when installing the new parts and place the T-stat in position with the hole or giggle pin in the up position? This is to let the air out of they system.

It takes a little effort to get all the air out of the system. Try squeezing the hoses to force the air out and then add more coolant as required.

Typically it takes a while for the T-stat to warm up enough to open at engine idle. Prior to this the upper hose gets hot and the lower one stays pretty cool. When the T-stat starts to open (around 183F) the lower hose will heat up as the coolant begins to circulate. Check the hoses for temp. If the lower is staying cool or cold there may be a coolant circulation problem.

When the coolant is circulating you should also be able to see the coolant flowing if looking into the radiator fill port.

If the engine idles long enough, assuming proper circulation when the coolant reach around 199F the radiator fans should start to increase air flow and lower the temp.

If the car has A/C, with engine on turn operate the system and determine if the coolant fans are now on. They should cycle with A/C compressor operation.

If the engine is overheating try operating the heater at full blast and determine if the temp drops.

On rare occasions the inside of a hose will break down a collapse causing coolant flow issues. The two main hoses are the upper and lower radiator.

Suggest using a thermometer, even a meat thermometer and installing into the coolant fill port. Then watch the temp to determine if the T-stat is working and the coolant fans are starting at the proper temp.

 

When I started it, the water I added to flush the system was in the system, but I did not drain that yet and replace with coolant.

On the how-to I looked at, it noted a jiggle pin as you did, but there is not pin on this thermostat. No hole either.

 

This would make it more difficult to bleed the air until the T-stat opened. Or it could have some other setup to bleed the air, if not just drill a small hole in the area where the pin is on the old T-stat.

If still overheating you might try removing the T-stat and doing a test. If still over heating you have some kind of circulation problem.

Just drain out and reuse the coolant mix. If a small amount of debris in the coolant filter it out with something.

There is a block drain behind the engine if you go in from the transmission side.

 

There will be a hole but it will be as big as the point of a pin. Look for it by holding the T-stat up to a light. Jacking upthe front of the car as you fill and do an initial start-up also helps to vent air.