Replaced the Knock sensor today on my 1993 Camry LE...

the Knock sensor is the same for 1992 through 1996, so here's some tips if you think you need one...

at the junkyard...
1) went to the Pick/pull junkyard to get a replacement ($17). walked the yard and found one that looked clean with a good plug on a 95 model.

first, you need a 27mm DEEP socket to remove one of these! I had to go to a local specialty tools place to find a deep socket that's 27mm. It was only $7 at Harbor freight tools for an IMPACT DEEP socket 27mm!...(I think they are national company?) It's easy to remove from underneath the car with just a socket wrench and the 27mm deep socket when the car is on junkyard jacks

2) before disconnecting the plug, I clipped the plug wire as close to the wire harness (near the injectors) so I could have a backup plug with alot of extra wire if I needed it on my car if problems should arise...

(another hint before going to the junkyard- find an old pair of socks, use scissors and clip of the toe ends of the socks to create a nice "arm sleave" that your arm fits through to cover up all your forearms before putting on the work gloves. this will keep you arms cleaner when pulling the sensor off a junk car that most are leaking oil! )

3) some knock sensors are tight, so you have to put alot of elbow grease into it to get it loose. I had the same problem with my original that was on my car...

at home, in the garage..

1) need a floor jack for this one, place it underneath the passenger door where the frame is. no need to remove the passenger tire as the jack will give enough crawl space underneath from the front bumper. Disconnect the battery terminal before working!!!

2) ran into the problem of my knock sensor plug not coming off. I had to remove the metal bracket brace that connects the intake manifold to the transmission (easy to do and remove with a 12mm and 14mm wrench to loosen the 2 nuts from underneath). I had the back up plug/wire from the junkyard, so I clipped the wire on mine at the plug so as to leave as much original harness wire to splice and bridge the extra plug to. took the wrench and 27mm socket and finally got it loose. You can set the wrench from underneath the car, then get up and move your hand through the TB to get leverage to loosen from up top. (you'll have to figure this one out on your own, but it can be done!)

3) finally, got the old knock sensor loose and removed it.

4) plug wire splicing- used the extra plug/wire from the junkyard, and the original harness wire and spliced both ends. (you can pull the knock sensor wire up from around the injectors to be able to work from up top) ....to join them together, I used a small metal wire connector "cylinder" for 18 guage wire(find at any electronics store). BEFORE inserting each wire into the cylinder, place some heat shrink on the wire for later, just enough to cover everthing after crimping. once the wires were crimped into the cylinder at each end for tight connection, I TESTED with an ohm meter to ensure I had current through to the plug. I used electrical tape to wrap and ensure some stability. After taping, I moved the heat shrink over the joint and used a match to light up and shrink. all in all, it's a tight fit, with good coverage over the spliced joint. NEXT, covered this wire with new HEAT SHIELD.

5) put the new "used" knock sensor on from underneath, set the socket wrench/27mm socket so as to be tightened from up top. tightened it from uptop, got underneath the car again and reconnected the bracket and then connected the Knock sensor plug to the new one! reconnected the battery terminal...

off and away I went, car runs better and smoother than before...

Hope this helps! reading searches online for "how to" on a camry knock sensor, none of these potential problems were addressed. You will save hours if you take my advice and prepare for the worst!

Brian