The throttle body has a small coolant hose running to and from it. Prevents icing and warms the air somewhat to help get a better fuel air mix.

Is is possible that air doors in the dash are moving around and redirecting the hot air some place else?

Did the engine temp drop?

You sure you go all the debris out of the core?

 

I've checked to make sure the manual door valves are working correctly. They seem to be OK

Flushed the heater core again last night and no more gunk came out.

When the fans come on the temp drops.

The flow out of the heat core return hose still looks good.

What does it take to replace the heater core??

It looks like alot of the dash and center console need to be removed. Does anything with the AC have to removed??

 

The heater core is below the dash and in front of a lof "stuff." Thus access is not that bad. One issue is there are joints in the tubes between the core and those sticking out the firewall. You will need to be carefull disconnecting this. Is is impossible to remove the core without disconnecting these pipes.

The autozone website may have some info on removing the core.

Fans are these heater blower or radiator?

If the core flows water fine, then would go back to the issue of the T-stat.

For most Camry once operating temp is reached the gauge never moves, even if the radiator fans come on/off or the heater blower is turned on. I only see this type of operation (gauge movement) on cars where the radiator is plugged or some issue the result being the engine cooling system is not working right.

In a cooling system that is operating correctly, the T-stat should be able to moderate the temp range. And again on Camry this means the temp gauge never moves once it reaches operating temp.

I will send you a private message with a link to more info.

 

Thanks toyomoho,

I'm going to check out the thermostat this week after work. You've been a great help!!!! I'll keep you in the loop!!

Thanks Again you assistance has been GREATLY appreciated!!

Thanks
Dan

 

OK I torn it down pulled the New thermostat I just put in about a week and half ago. NO Jiggle valve!! Tested the stat to see what temp it opened at. Well it didn't start to open till the temp. hit 205 and was fully open by the time the temp. hit 210. It supposed to be 180.

Anyways went to Advanced, Bumper to Bumper and NAPA for a stat with a jiggle valve.....NO LUCK!!! the one dude said they don't make jiggle valve stat's anymore, not for anything. So for what purpose is the jiggle valve??? Does it really matter?? Also found a bleeder on the side of the stat housing and one on the top of the block were the return hose housing meet to go back to the radiator.

I'll test the NEW stat before I install it and mount the stat per the picture profile. Then fill and bleed. The bleeder on the side of the stat housing (water pump) looks to be impossible to get to once everything is assembled....but I'll try.

Oh flushed the heater core again.....NO gunk???? but good return flow.

 

The jiggle pin or hole is to allow air to bleed out of the coolant system. Air can cause coolant temp issues.

If the coolant system has bleeds ports use these if you can.

You can always drill a small hole into the flange.

See photo of T-stat with jiggle pin:

http://info.rockauto.com/BeckArnley/...ml?1430728.jpg

 

Research indicates on this year the dash needs to removed to replace the heater core, a big job. Thus would try all other venues before going this route in the winter time (burr).

If the core flows water well it may be air in the system.

The engine is OK, it does not a have a blown head gasket?

Make sure the radiator is filled to capacity. Refill after driving if needed after changing T-stat..

You may be able to reach the bleed port with a long extension and socket.

What is your temp gauge indicating on the dash, should be about at the 1/2 point.

Have you flush all the hoses and piping of the bypass system?

 

Toyomoho,

Well finally had some time this week to get back to the heat problem. Could not find a T-stat with a jiggle valve anywhere. So, I took your advise and drilled a 5/32 hole on the flange and installed it per your advise. What a difference in the trapped air.... virtually none. I also reversed flushed the system alternating between normal flow and reverse. Then added CLR to the radiator and started the flush rue teen again. The crap started really breaking loose and you guessed it HEAT!!! I'll keep flushing the system till most of the crap is gone.

I love this forum ... you guys really know your stuff. I'll be back because once the heat issue is resolved for good. I think I have to replace the CV joints. One clicks when its cold and turning. Once its warmed up I don't hear it anymore. I' replaced both torn boots with the split boot kit but it still clicks.


Thanks a million
Dan

 

Thanks for getting back on your problem. Glad to help!

Make a few left and right 90 and 180 degree turns and listen for clicking. If heard the bad axle is typically on the opposite side of the direction of turn.

 

OK Toyomoho,

I'm back. Well I've had heat and been flushing the whole system from the radiator since Sunday night (fill, purge, drive and drain), 2 to 3 times per night. The fluid keeps coming out out yellowish. I drained the oil and let it stand over night....NO Water in the oil, no lose of fluids.

Anyways tonight I start the flush routine and NO HEAT???? The first drain is the same color, the 2nd flush the same...doesn't clear up. So I back flush and forward flush the heater core again. All I got was bits of rust....and its clear.

Could the blockage be in the block???

Can I flush the block by using the heater hoses with the thermostat in place???

I have power flushed the radiator and nothing more comes out of it.

What next???

Thanks
Dan