Potential brake fluid leak
#1
Potential brake fluid leak
1995 Camry 225 K LE V6 owned for 15 years thus far.
This week I saw my brake light went on.
Examined pads, rotors, OK.
Examined emergency brakes, OK.
Checked brake fluid.
It was low enough to suspect a small leak. I checked it 30 days a go and was fine. I check fluids every month. Never went low before.
I have been under car and the brake lines are generally in good shape since Toyota coats it with hard plastic to prevent corrosion.
Brakes lines in engine are mint.
However, I remember the crossover line across rear axle may be rusty,
Any suggestions for other spots to look to minimize troubleshooting or past experience.
This week I saw my brake light went on.
Examined pads, rotors, OK.
Examined emergency brakes, OK.
Checked brake fluid.
It was low enough to suspect a small leak. I checked it 30 days a go and was fine. I check fluids every month. Never went low before.
I have been under car and the brake lines are generally in good shape since Toyota coats it with hard plastic to prevent corrosion.
Brakes lines in engine are mint.
However, I remember the crossover line across rear axle may be rusty,
Any suggestions for other spots to look to minimize troubleshooting or past experience.
#2
Check the brake booster to determine if the master cylinder is leaking into the booster. Perhaps the fluid drawn into booster hose and then engine.
How are the brake pads? Did they somehow wear more in the last month and thus move out of the caliber more? The result being lower brake fluid level.
How are the brake pads? Did they somehow wear more in the last month and thus move out of the caliber more? The result being lower brake fluid level.
#4
Found it. The brake lines right under the drivers seat are leaking.
They go along left rail and covered with a plastic protection rail..
Two lines (brake) go to rear.
One line goes to from fuel tank to emission cannister
One line goes from tank to engine(fuel)
One line is also part of the fuel tank line but not sure what it is yet. The top three I have followed the lines so I am sure.
Many brackets broke upon removal so need to order brackets and brake lines (OEM). Still removing since a few bolts soaking in PBBlaster.
Replaced all my truck brake lines so versed in replacement. Any of the lines inside engine are almost like new since all are lines are coated and even parts of the rusted lines are not too bad except under the drivers,
Hope that makes sense.
They go along left rail and covered with a plastic protection rail..
Two lines (brake) go to rear.
One line goes to from fuel tank to emission cannister
One line goes from tank to engine(fuel)
One line is also part of the fuel tank line but not sure what it is yet. The top three I have followed the lines so I am sure.
Many brackets broke upon removal so need to order brackets and brake lines (OEM). Still removing since a few bolts soaking in PBBlaster.
Replaced all my truck brake lines so versed in replacement. Any of the lines inside engine are almost like new since all are lines are coated and even parts of the rusted lines are not too bad except under the drivers,
Hope that makes sense.
Last edited by wdc123; 06-02-2019 at 02:07 PM.
#6
Removed the brake lines but in the process broke a stabilizer bolt which I will drill out and a suspension crossmember bolt (rusted bad inside and broke).
This section had to be removed to remove brake lines on both sides. Fortunately it screwed off from frame and did not break. See pictures.
Removed both nuts to remove bracket for brake line removal. The nut on the back did not breaks off. .
My question is since these bolts are easy to get at why not replace the bushings.
It looks like they push in from the bottom. It also looks like there are only lower bushings since the top is a steel ring.
This section had to be removed to remove brake lines on both sides. Fortunately it screwed off from frame and did not break. See pictures.
Removed both nuts to remove bracket for brake line removal. The nut on the back did not breaks off. .
My question is since these bolts are easy to get at why not replace the bushings.
It looks like they push in from the bottom. It also looks like there are only lower bushings since the top is a steel ring.
Last edited by wdc123; 06-15-2019 at 07:08 PM.
#7
Is this the part or it's opposite side member?
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/...257-33010.html
Opposite side is P/N 51024-33010
The bolt (stud) broke off this part?
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/...257-33010.html
Opposite side is P/N 51024-33010
The bolt (stud) broke off this part?
#8
Here are the pictures of the passenger side right rear side where nut broke off stud that holds cradle but was able to remove stud.
The previous picture is where sway bar bolt broke off and need to drill out from drivers side bracket but broken stud is from right side.
First picture You can see passenger side rear cradle with left stud intact and right stud missing since nut broke off stud and then unscrewed stud from body.
Second picture = Close up of cradle with stud missing.
Third picture - New stud on display.
Other picture - Bracket that holds sway bar and cradle in place.
The previous picture is where sway bar bolt broke off and need to drill out from drivers side bracket but broken stud is from right side.
First picture You can see passenger side rear cradle with left stud intact and right stud missing since nut broke off stud and then unscrewed stud from body.
Second picture = Close up of cradle with stud missing.
Third picture - New stud on display.
Other picture - Bracket that holds sway bar and cradle in place.