Rear Brake Job 1995 Toyota Camry 185K
#1
Rear Brake Job 1995 Toyota Camry 185K
I basically need guidance on the rear disc brakes since I have read the manual and understand how to remove/install but concerned on what will give me trouble.
What have Camry owners seen? My fronts went well.
Stuck rotor?
Stuck caliper bolts?
Anything unusual.
OEMS coming by weeks end. Hitting with PBBLASTER as I would normally and let soak.
Thanks
What have Camry owners seen? My fronts went well.
Stuck rotor?
Stuck caliper bolts?
Anything unusual.
OEMS coming by weeks end. Hitting with PBBLASTER as I would normally and let soak.
Thanks
#2
Hitting bolts/nuts PB Blaster is a good start.
If you have done brakes before then this should be no different.
Look for the usual: uneven pad wear, leaks, etc.
Pick up some brake lube to grease the slides of the calipers. I was told I had a stuck caliper but it was due to the slides not being properly lubed. I cleaned and greased them and they have been great ever since.
If this is your first brake job, please let us know and we can get into more detail.
If you have done brakes before then this should be no different.
Look for the usual: uneven pad wear, leaks, etc.
Pick up some brake lube to grease the slides of the calipers. I was told I had a stuck caliper but it was due to the slides not being properly lubed. I cleaned and greased them and they have been great ever since.
If this is your first brake job, please let us know and we can get into more detail.
#3
I just received all my parts for the brake job.
So far the brakes pads and rotors are worn and have some life in them but changing anyways. Unfortunately, the more important issue is the emergency brakes. I suspected an issue since the emergency pedal almost went to the floor when setting it and some other unusual things I noticed.
That said most of the shoes were missing all or some of the braking material and therefore metal to metal to metal contact with the rotor. The rotor was pitted and cut some and I do not think they can cut them or worth it.
Buying new shoes and springs etc. and going from there. Took me a while to figure out the shoes since have not done these in a long time but all good now.
I figure the last person who did the brakes changed the pads only and do not see the emergency brakes or they did and left it alone.
So far the brakes pads and rotors are worn and have some life in them but changing anyways. Unfortunately, the more important issue is the emergency brakes. I suspected an issue since the emergency pedal almost went to the floor when setting it and some other unusual things I noticed.
That said most of the shoes were missing all or some of the braking material and therefore metal to metal to metal contact with the rotor. The rotor was pitted and cut some and I do not think they can cut them or worth it.
Buying new shoes and springs etc. and going from there. Took me a while to figure out the shoes since have not done these in a long time but all good now.
I figure the last person who did the brakes changed the pads only and do not see the emergency brakes or they did and left it alone.
#4
If the rotors are damaged suggest replacing rather then turning them.
Most pads have some sort of metal indicator tab. This tab makes contact with the rotor when the braking material becomes excessively worn and starts to squeal.
Most pads have some sort of metal indicator tab. This tab makes contact with the rotor when the braking material becomes excessively worn and starts to squeal.
#5
I just finished installing new rotors, pads, shoes and shoe hardware. All OEM except emergencies and hardware from rock auto. The disc brakes were easy to do. It was the emergencies. Thanks for all your help.
Some comments:
Always purchase new hardware on brakes shoes. The old springs will not keep the brakes in place or maintain the needed flexibility.
Buy the right tools for installing brake shoes. It was hard to find the right tool but once I did it was much easier. Would of been a little easire if hub was not in way. Wear safety glasses. Crazy springs.
There are no shims in the old pads or new since they were incorporated into the pad.
There is only one pad/disc side with a wear marker. The previous one has a wear maker on each pad.
Question:
I think I should replace my rear stabilizer bar link. I can grab it and turn it back and forth but not up and down. I feel I can remove it with enough force. Likely never changed.
Some comments:
Always purchase new hardware on brakes shoes. The old springs will not keep the brakes in place or maintain the needed flexibility.
Buy the right tools for installing brake shoes. It was hard to find the right tool but once I did it was much easier. Would of been a little easire if hub was not in way. Wear safety glasses. Crazy springs.
There are no shims in the old pads or new since they were incorporated into the pad.
There is only one pad/disc side with a wear marker. The previous one has a wear maker on each pad.
Question:
I think I should replace my rear stabilizer bar link. I can grab it and turn it back and forth but not up and down. I feel I can remove it with enough force. Likely never changed.