General Tech Good at troubleshooting? Have a non specific issue? Discuss general tech topics here.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Running a bit hot...need some input

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #21  
Old 01-03-2012, 06:52 PM
toyomoho's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: PTW
Posts: 14,781
Default

The AC compressor is not constantly on when AC on, but cycles on/off. Fans cycle in sync with the AC compressor cycling on/off.

Appearing more like a coolant system that is not up to par. Going up hill requires more HP, engine gets hot. Down hill no HP, engine cools off.

Look inside the radiator at the hole in the tubes for clogging.

Check link for radiator test.

Auto, Car, Truck Radiator, cooling system repair, help with diagnosis, overheating
 
  #22  
Old 01-03-2012, 08:45 PM
The_Editor's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 26
Default

Hi Joey,

Thanks for the link. I'll try those tests tomorrow. Come to think of it, a couple of things I have noticed while working on this. I read about seeing the coolant "circulate" when you look down the throat of the rad. I remember my old 73 Dodge Dart when I worked on the radiator. When I looked down the filler hole I used to see the coolant sort of "moving". I don't think I have noticed this on the Camry. All the coolant seems to do is back out of the throat about a teaspoon at a time as it heats up, and stopping backing out after probably a few tablespoons have been lost.

Also, I noticed that when I put my hand on the front of the rad after I had driven it, it didn't seem very warm. Any thoughts?

Thanks, Brenden.
 
  #23  
Old 01-04-2012, 08:39 AM
toyomoho's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: PTW
Posts: 14,781
Default

Suppose you could remove the T-stat, this would give 100% flow.

The engine will be slow to warm up and it is not recommended long term to operate without the T-stat.

If the gauge temp needle still moves up and down with engine load would look at having the radiator checked by a shop.
 
  #24  
Old 01-04-2012, 12:39 PM
The_Editor's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 26
Default

Hi Joey,

I would hope the Tsat is working since it's new, but you never know. I did drive it on the highway this morning and when I got back I felt as much of the radiator as I could (with the fans in the way) and the lower part of the radiator was cooler than the upper. Most of the radiator felt warm, but just a little. None of it was hot or uncomfortably warm. I'm not sure how it's supposed to feel. Most of it was tepid.

Regards, Brenden.
 
  #25  
Old 01-04-2012, 01:10 PM
toyomoho's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: PTW
Posts: 14,781
Default

The T-stat should be OK, the issue is removing it should cause the coolant system operate at max capacity all the time. If the engine still appears to overheat (temp gauge go up and down with engine load) then something is amiss in the cooling system or still could be the temp sensor is bad.

If the engine is warmed up, say after a 1/2 hour drive. The upper hose will be hot as in you don't want to hold it for long. The coolant temp inside is around 190F- that is hot.

For a reference, a temp of 155F is the point where you can touch an item but not for long as it is too hot to continue touching it.
 
  #26  
Old 01-04-2012, 01:27 PM
The_Editor's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 26
Default

Hi Joey,

What about the radiator itself? Should it be hot on the grills behind the fans or just a little warm? Mine is just warm.

Thanks, Brenden.
 
  #27  
Old 01-04-2012, 01:55 PM
toyomoho's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: PTW
Posts: 14,781
Default

If you touch the upper or lower radiator tanks these will be hot. Might compare upper and lower tank temps using your hand. The difference between top and bottom temps is not going to be guessing 20-25F degrees.

The fins will not be as hot. Your touching the edges of the fins that themselves are attached to the tubes. The fins are designed to radiate heat thus the temperature at the end of the fin will be lower. If you touched the tub the fin was attached to it would be hotter.
 
  #28  
Old 01-04-2012, 02:04 PM
The_Editor's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 26
Default

Thanks,

I'm going to try comparing the temps on the tanks. I started thinking that if the lower tank where the switch is mounted isn't getting hot, maybe that's whay the fans aren't kicking on? Either way, I think I may end up yanking the radiator for a close inspection. At least it's not to big a job, just didn't feel like doing it....

Regards, Brenden.

PS. I see you live in Washington? Like me.
 
  #29  
Old 01-04-2012, 02:13 PM
The_Editor's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 26
Default

UPDATE.

Just noticed under the car that the plastic underskirt (that thing that keeps you from banging the bottom on parking medians) is broken/missing. Does anyone think this could contribute to overheating? I seem to remember reading somewhere that this can impede cooling, though not sure why. Maybe I'm reaching....
 
  #30  
Old 01-04-2012, 02:23 PM
toyomoho's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: PTW
Posts: 14,781
Default

Could be the lower tank is too cool. One reason to check the switch to determine if it turns off at around 199F. Everything else in the fan system seems to be working OK.

Yes, WA state. Now a storm is coming through and in for some rain, almost reached 60 this morning. It was a good time to remove that leaking radiator for repair from the lawn tractor. Best get ready for spring.
 


Quick Reply: Running a bit hot...need some input



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:08 AM.