Transmission replacement
#11
Well, I'm down to the fact that I need to drop the front subframe(not excited), but have to do something with the rusted exhaust. I picked up a welder a few months ago so I'm thinking of just cutting it and welding it back together when I'm done. Gotta have some reason to fire it up I suppose. I've my less too many times with rusted manifold flange bolts. Assuming everything isn't rusted to the point of just burning holes in it.
Thank you for the help. I had a heck of a time seeing the top two bolts for the converter shield. I was really surprised at how easy the passenger side shaft came out. A few hard taps and it slid right out. Guess I wont fix the oil leaks cause they served a purpose this time.
Thank you for the help. I had a heck of a time seeing the top two bolts for the converter shield. I was really surprised at how easy the passenger side shaft came out. A few hard taps and it slid right out. Guess I wont fix the oil leaks cause they served a purpose this time.
Last edited by tzfbird; 02-02-2010 at 09:20 PM.
#13
A shaft that drives the differential gear shattered. Not sure if that was from the "mechanics" trying to work on it, but a bearing let loose and the rollers must have been getting cought up in the gears. So transmission is a gonner.
Remember to check your differential fluid level everyone!
Remember to check your differential fluid level everyone!
#15
Sorry to bring an old thread back up. I found a transmission... same range of mileage in a salvage yard, same year, and same engine. Fluid is perfecect red in the differential area. They drain the other oil though. From what I could get out on the dipstick it all looked pretty good.
Aside from making sure the diff looks good and I do a filter change. Is there anything else I am forgetting? I could only find one model of this transmission so I don't think there is a gear ratio issue that I am going to run into.
Aside from making sure the diff looks good and I do a filter change. Is there anything else I am forgetting? I could only find one model of this transmission so I don't think there is a gear ratio issue that I am going to run into.
#16
There should be a couple of magnets in the pan, clean and replace these in the same spot.
Some models of trans have a slightly different electrical plug harness. If so you should able to adapt the trans wiring to the cars harness.
Check the flex plate for cracking where it bolts to the crank.
If the torque converter was drained of fluid make sure it is refilled prior to installing.
Make the converter is installed all the way on the trans input shaft. The tang on the oil pump needs to engage the groove on the converter. Otherwise the converter will extend out too much resulting in damage when the trans and block are pulled together. Don’t let the converter slide forward during installation or it may disengage from the pump.
Use a thread lock compound on the bolts (clean bolt threads) holding the converter to the flex plate. Install the dark green bolt first. Tighten all bolts to 20 ft-lb.
Might change out the differential housing seals (where the axles go in to the housing). Cheap insurance in case the old seals were damaged. When the trans is still off might also check the rear crankshaft seal for leakage as it is easy to replace at this time.
Some models of trans have a slightly different electrical plug harness. If so you should able to adapt the trans wiring to the cars harness.
Check the flex plate for cracking where it bolts to the crank.
If the torque converter was drained of fluid make sure it is refilled prior to installing.
Make the converter is installed all the way on the trans input shaft. The tang on the oil pump needs to engage the groove on the converter. Otherwise the converter will extend out too much resulting in damage when the trans and block are pulled together. Don’t let the converter slide forward during installation or it may disengage from the pump.
Use a thread lock compound on the bolts (clean bolt threads) holding the converter to the flex plate. Install the dark green bolt first. Tighten all bolts to 20 ft-lb.
Might change out the differential housing seals (where the axles go in to the housing). Cheap insurance in case the old seals were damaged. When the trans is still off might also check the rear crankshaft seal for leakage as it is easy to replace at this time.
#18
Apparently there is a difference with the gear selector. Easy enough since I saved that at least. Everything else looked pretty much the same.
Yeah, pan was full of all sorts of goodies. I really liked seeing the spring out of a seal stuck to one of the pan magnets.
Got the new one and it's going in next week.
Thank you for all the help.
Yeah, pan was full of all sorts of goodies. I really liked seeing the spring out of a seal stuck to one of the pan magnets.
Got the new one and it's going in next week.
Thank you for all the help.
#20
Pulled off the pan since the yard i got it from punches a hole in them to drain the fluid. Magnets have quite a bit of material on them. Not sure of fluid change history, but I would say it's right on par for any transmission that still works but has an unknown service history. Fluid does smell a bit weird though. It uses regular Dextron-whatever correct? Hopefully it's just not a brand that smells different that the last owner used (i.e. motor oils... quaker state, Valvoline, store brand all have their own respective smells). I've only bought one brand of transmission fluid since I've only owned GM vehicles with automatics.